Car In the Shop 2, no, 3 Weeks, no 4 weeks, no 7 weeks For Warranty Repair - GOT HER BACK, Ford Customer Service is useless

I keep thinking there is a pivot point or suspension link that is causing the clunk. Maybe an oblong hole, defective bushing. I’d be shocked if it was a body issue, but anything is possible. 
 

It would be hard for a dealership to justify, but if it was in my garage I’d probably tear the whole rear suspension out, inspect, see what the bolt & bushing tolerances are. You can tighten a bolt as much as you want but if there is a few thousands slop in the bushing boss, it can cause a clunk as the weight is loaded and unloaded over bumps. Then reassemble to see what happens. Maybe even replace some of the cheaper links on that side. 
Agree with this and sounds like narrowed to shock having something to do with it. Possible shock puts enough tension on pivot points and with out it things are free to move. As for removing quarter panel, sounds like they need to buy the car. Not so sure Ford would support this idea. Convince them it's a safety issue and they'll crush the car.

 
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When I was still with Honda, on occasion we would get cars in that would make creaking and popping noises at body seams.  The fix per Honda was to try to get a tool to the pinch/spot welds, slightly prying them apart trying to "crack" the paint.  I guess the theory was that the two painted layers were loose enough to move, but tight enough they wouldn't slide.  Tectonic plate type movement...

 
I keep thinking there is a pivot point or suspension link that is causing the clunk. Maybe an oblong hole, defective bushing. I’d be shocked if it was a body issue, but anything is possible. 
 

It would be hard for a dealership to justify, but if it was in my garage I’d probably tear the whole rear suspension out, inspect, see what the bolt & bushing tolerances are. You can tighten a bolt as much as you want but if there is a few thousands slop in the bushing boss, it can cause a clunk as the weight is loaded and unloaded over bumps. Then reassemble to see what happens. Maybe even replace some of the cheaper links on that side. 
They said they can definitely hear the sound in the body, but the clunk doesn't have that solid "POP" sound that broken unibodies usually make, and sounds transmit through shocks fairly well.  As an XJ owner, I know what broken unibodies sound like, and this isn't it.  It's a dull, half-muted clunk, which to me sounds like suspension parts.

Agree with this and sounds like narrowed to shock having something to do with it. Possible shock puts enough tension on pivot points and with out it things are free to move. As for removing quarter panel, sounds like they need to buy the car. Not so sure Ford would support this idea. Convince them it's a safety issue and they'll crush the car.
Yeah.  Quarterpanel removal is effectively a rebuilt car to me.  No way I'm paying new for that.  A replacement would be the easiest option for all, especially considering COVID pricing right now.  My car is still worth thousands more than I paid for it OTD due to the shortage, so that will make things super muddy, not to mention finding a replacement.

In any case, really like that car, and no one came out with anything new that's comparable.  So not like I'm gonna try something else unless Nissan comes out with a 2+2 400Z in a couple of weeks... Even then, that company is fraught with problems lately.  

When I was still with Honda, on occasion we would get cars in that would make creaking and popping noises at body seams.  The fix per Honda was to try to get a tool to the pinch/spot welds, slightly prying them apart trying to "crack" the paint.  I guess the theory was that the two painted layers were loose enough to move, but tight enough they wouldn't slide.  Tectonic plate type movement...
As long as they guaranteed against corrosion, I'd be fine with this.

 
Dealer replaced the subframe bushings per Ford engineer’s recommendation. Still not fixed…

 
M5 still in the shop. Waiting on an ABS Control Module.  Shipping.  From.  Germany . . .

 
i had a similar problem after two days of driving it around it was a trailer hitch ball under the spare in the trunk 

 
i had a similar problem after two days of driving it around it was a trailer hitch ball under the spare in the trunk 
Can you imagine if after all this they found the Jack, Jack handle or lug wrench was loose and that was the issue. Not sure if I’d be happy or pissed? 

 
i had a similar problem after two days of driving it around it was a trailer hitch ball under the spare in the trunk 
I checked everything back there prior to taking it in. Lol

Can you imagine if after all this they found the Jack, Jack handle or lug wrench was loose and that was the issue. Not sure if I’d be happy or pissed? 
That depends on who pays the bill… :biggrin:

 
is that the razor equivalent in the automobile world???

I gotta say I REALLY dont get where there head was at in this whole thing.......  WTF???

mac06591-1622750074.jpg


 
M5 still in the shop. Waiting on an ABS Control Module.  Shipping.  From.  Germany . . .
We had our Vw in dealer with a misfire for 5 months under drivetrain warranty at 98900 mikes waiting on a new head from Germany. 
 

only have 3500 miles on our m5 cs, no issues at all except excessive tire wear 

 
We had our Vw in dealer with a misfire for 5 months under drivetrain warranty at 98900 mikes waiting on a new head from Germany. 
 

only have 3500 miles on our m5 cs, no issues at all except excessive tire wear 
600+ hp have anything to do with that…? :biggrin:

 
600+ hp have anything to do with that…? :biggrin:
Yep, I can’t help it, claimed 617 or 623 or something like that but they appear to be under rated and are closer to 700hp in reality. I keep hoping it’s going to wake up and pull like the dragster though

 
This is really a sad situation ... Its not like the FOX chassis design hasn't been virtually the same since 2010 and basically the same other than rear axles since the early 80's ... No one can figure it out at the dealer and dealer support network ... so hard to imagine 

 
This is really a sad situation ... Its not like the FOX chassis design hasn't been virtually the same since 2010 and basically the same other than rear axles since the early 80's ... No one can figure it out at the dealer and dealer support network ... so hard to imagine 
S550 is IRS with 4 gajillion links back there, far cry from the Fox body days. More like a 5 link

image.jpeg

Except with more shtuff. Lol

 
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S550 is IRS with 4 gajillion links back there, far cry from the Fox body days. More like a 5 link

View attachment 11507

Except with more shtuff. Lol
Yeah thats what I was saying its still a fox body with essentially a different rear suspension and some mods to fit the Coyota.  99-2004 Cobra had a similar IRS then 2010 -2011 Cobra prototyped the 2015 up that you have.  Seems like that was plenty of time to get it right?   I used All those IRS systems on "Shelby" Cobra replicas when I built them  - Lots of moving parts to it all "fit" in the Old Fox body configuration (cheap Ford)  made all those links to keep the rear end from wrapping up from diving under all that HP. But used soft bushings to eliminate noise, so everything twists too much, but still Better than the Gen 3 corvette from a squat and predictability perspective. I like how they handle (I had the roush 427 version) but nothing mind shattering engineering wise 

I would take an 89 fox body straight axle any day for reliability ...

 
Ford engineer still looking. Been a month now. Starting talks with Ford on replacement. Sad. 

 
Some things are not easily resolved, nor cost effective to resolve, frustrating none the less. 

I have a mystery thump, in my truck. Been looking for over a year now.  Mind you.....  not very actively.   LOL 

 
Some things are not easily resolved, nor cost effective to resolve, frustrating none the less. 

I have a mystery thump, in my truck. Been looking for over a year now.  Mind you.....  not very actively.   LOL 
Ford engineer drove another with the same noise, so now I’m stuck in a battle of fighting then to repair, or just taking the credit and moving on. Not certain what I’m gonna do at this point.

 
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