The Transaxle Thread

looking to upgrade from a 2d to an s4 or an hv24. which one is more capable handling 550 crank hp in a 2800 lb car?

i know with an s4 i would have to change the shifter out is that the same with an hv being h pattern still?  

 
Speaking of shifters it looks like there is the SU shifter, extreme, SCU, Hargett and the JC Whips and Shyt. What’s the good, bad and ugly on these or is it just personal preference of style.   Did I miss any other sequential shifters out there?

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Pretty Shitty Deal JC and SU both purchased and Copied our design

This design did not come from anyone or anything we spent over a year developing our shifter and JC or Ed at SU did not change anything, on the stops or the geometry,  Ed purchased a hadfull and then sent it to his CNC guy 

Come on Ed at least change the look of the handle,  and knob if you are going to Rip if off a least Rip if off like JC did, 

 
We do them without springs 

We do them With Return Springs 

Black 

Silver 

Reverse side Handles 

and Carry the Weddle Reverser that goes on the Trans to change Directions 

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looking to upgrade from a 2d to an s4 or an hv24. which one is more capable handling 550 crank hp in a 2800 lb car?

i know with an s4 i would have to change the shifter out is that the same with an hv being h pattern still?  
Both can handle 550 at the crank no problem. Your only decision is whether to have an easy to ship H-pattern, or the racier feel of a sequential. 

HV-24 requires a new Pro-Am shifter since we had to move the reverse lockout to the passenger side. 

 
Send me an e-mail for a quote: sean@weddleindustries.com
Not sure what version i had, but sent mine to Sean, i had the steel shift forks, and upgraded it to the new aluminum forks and barrel, and i had the barrel REM polished,  It shifts way smoother in my opinion 

 
Not sure what version i had, but sent mine to Sean, i had the steel shift forks, and upgraded it to the new aluminum forks and barrel, and i had the barrel REM polished,  It shifts way smoother in my opinion 
New style forks and shift drum help with longevity and reliability, but do not necessarily help with the shift quality that much. I wouldn't sell someone the forks/shift drum to specifically help with shift quality. 

The Gen 3 ratchet is the "game changer" for those who are sold that type of terminology (I prefer to say it works a lot better than the Gen 1/Gen 2 design).

 
Both can handle 550 at the crank no problem. Your only decision is whether to have an easy to ship H-pattern, or the racier feel of a sequential. 

HV-24 requires a new Pro-Am shifter since we had to move the reverse lockout to the passenger side. 
Thank you Sean which one is capable of more power? And let’s say some 35” sandmasters

 
New style forks and shift drum help with longevity and reliability, but do not necessarily help with the shift quality that much. I wouldn't sell someone the forks/shift drum to specifically help with shift quality. 

The Gen 3 ratchet is the "game changer" for those who are sold that type of terminology (I prefer to say it works a lot better than the Gen 1/Gen 2 design).
I had the divorced shaft steel fork, then we changed the barrel and sent you the shift mechanism for the aluminum shift forks,  is there newer shift housing, or do i still have the latest one, 

 
A few factors that can cause a bearing to fail. Need to talk to the trans builder to get an idea of what was done in the last service. 

For what it's worth, I would assume that this bearing would have been making some level of whining noise before it got this point, mostly under deceleration. 
Orig Trans builder was rancho in 21 for Ed at SU. For his first new car build. 
Car had approximately 7 trips since built new ( as in everything , complete new car )

Trans made zero noises and did nothing odd. I went from bangin gears, gettin cheers, to flowin tears in .5 second

Daniel Folts did the diagnose and rebuild. He suspected maybe shims wrong or… but new bearing required same shims. Nothing pointed to ohhhhh ok here is why. 

He seems to feel it was just a fluke unlucky incident, no fault of hp or driving style. 
 

Im open ears if there is something else that would/could cause this. As I would prefer to not repeat same problem. Parts list below 

Alper for what it’s worth my shifter is one of yours.  :classic_biggrin:  Ed’s shifter is same but he did change some stuff. The bearing detent or something with the clicky thingy, lol and changed something on body to make it easier install and removal with center console. I don’t recall exactly what I just seen when he showed me what he had and what was changed last year or so. It’s been a minute. I did suggest doing a taller billet grip style handle. 

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Thank you Sean which one is capable of more power? And let’s say some 35” sandmasters
S4 has more brute strength in the gear, so we say it can handle around 700 ft/lbs at the crank.

HV-2 has a lot of features that are stronger than an S4, but uses the smaller MD diff spider/side gears that make that the weak link. Typically good to about 600 ft/lbs at the crank.

 
I had the divorced shaft steel fork, then we changed the barrel and sent you the shift mechanism for the aluminum shift forks,  is there newer shift housing, or do i still have the latest one, 
Unless you have sent your shift housing for upgrades in the past 2 years, you still have the Gen 2 shift mechanism. 

 
Unless you have sent your shift housing for upgrades in the past 2 years, you still have the Gen 2 shift mechanism. 
Thank you Sean it was around 3-4 years,  will send it in on the next round,  

 
That SCU shifter is like $1,800 lol. I'd pass. Alper makes a nice shifter though.
Thank you buddy,  Justin Shifter at SCU, is really nice, we use the same machinist. and Justins is really geared around low shift cable Due to it having push-pull levers to lower the cable in the shifter to make it a bottom shift, 

The big ticket item in Justin shifter knob has a strain gauge built into the shifter,  

The shift know is around $600.  plus extra rods and heims built into the shifter, 

this is a example of the shift know 

Shift Cut Gear Knobs — Platinum Racing Products

Unless you have sent your shift housing for upgrades in the past 2 years, you still have the Gen 2 shift mechanism. 
Thanks Sean looking back at your posts, Mine does not have the spring on the outside, 

Question, mine has the skinny seals on the shift shafts and reverse shafts, do the new ones have the thicker seals,  like the gen 1,  

Mine has never leaked with the gen 1 and the gen 2 has leaked from day one,  

 
First, I want to thank  @Sean@Weddle for taking his time to help everyone here and for sharing his knowledge for all of us. Really appreciate you.   DOTM nomination coming.

I am having a problem and we think its transaxle related.  S4 built by Rancho in 2022.  I have 6 trips on the car and have had 3 situations that are frustrating to diagnose. 

My car when I come to a stop will lock to the ground.  When I start to take off its like all the brakes are engaged and with all the power I can apply, it will barely turn the rear wheels and just bury the car. 

First time was a panic stop to avoid a witches eye.  I was in third gear,  crested over a dune and there it was. I clutched in, shifted from 3rd to 2nd to 1st without lifting the clutch pedal.  Planned to drop the clutch in 1st and power out and the car just locked to the ground.   Tried several times to power out and just buried the rear tires. Took all the power I could apply while slipping the clutch to get the rear tires to turn.

Car went into neutral just fine, could grab 1st gear just fine but still like it was line locked.

Hopped out and checked the car out.  Checked rear midboard temps, warm on both sides but not hot.  Checked the front brakes and could jiggle the inner and outer brake pads.  Went to the back and couldn't get to the pads but decided to bleed off the brake lines and the calipers. No squirt of fluid and no difference in being locked to the earth. 

@Squatcher was with us and he mentioned he had an air bag jack at camp and a co2 bottle. So he went back to camp.  An hour passes, he comes back, we jack up the whole back of the car.  Grab the tires and they spin just fine. I thought I head a faint click when they turned and thought maybe the trans was locked into a couple of gears with the possibility of my down shifting without lifting the clutch between gears.  Car and trans worked fine the rest of the trip.

Forward to this last weekend.  Went out for a dune run Friday morning. Solo, Was enjoying a nice ride when I crested over another dune and had to break fast to avoid another chitty spot.  I also down shifted but from 2nd to 1st and never came to a stop.  Lifted the clutch and the engine shut off and the car locked to the ground again.  I played with the turning brakes and worked the shifter between gears a walla is was ok.  Drove out and finished that run.   It is brakes or the trans, I still dont know at this point.

Saturday, we leave Pad 2 for a morning run to Duners Dinner.  Good run no issue and make it there.  Head back from the dinner and were moving along and having fun.  Get back to Roadrunner and the group wants to play so we step up and into the dunes.  We're into the groove and we get the radio call that our buddy Tom has blown his engine. I circle back around to find him side hilled with a rod hanging out.  I roll into a flat are below the dune.  Get into neutral, let the clutch out and idle for a few minuets to cool off the engine.  Shut it down and we all enjoy a cold beverage and make the plans to tow out Tom.  

So I am up to the task and hop in to get into position.  Fire up, shift into 1st, let the clutch out and I am glued to the earth again.  No prior panic stop, basic roll into the spot without using the brakes.  Tried everything again, shift in and out no difference, bleed off all the brakes, no difference, tried to power out and just burried the car again.  

Send part of the group back to camp for the floor jacks and a shovel.  We dig under, get the jacks on both rear sides,  jack it up and the rear tires roll like last time.  Fill in the sand holes and drive out like nothing is wrong.

Can this S4 get stuck into 2 gears, can I have one gear maybe fused on one shaft? Is it a cool off period thats in play here? Trans temp was 178 deg when I stopped this time.

Or am I dealing with some brake issue.  

Brought the car home and planning on pulling the trans but have some hesitation as I just don't know whats actually happening.

Thanks in advance.

And just to be clear, This is not your classic spin the tires and get buried from a stop.

Erik

 
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First, I want to thank  @Sean@Weddle for taking his time to help everyone here and for sharing his knowledge for all of us. Really appreciate you.   DOTM nomination coming.

I am having a problem and we think its transaxle related.  S4 built by Rancho in 2022.  I have 6 trips on the car and have had 3 situations that are frustrating to diagnose. 

My car when I come to a stop will lock to the ground.  When I start to take off its like all the brakes are engaged and with all the power I can apply, it will barely turn the rear wheels and just bury the car. 

First time was a panic stop to avoid a witches eye.  I was in third gear,  crested over a dune and there it was. I clutched in, shifted from 3rd to 2nd to 1st without lifting the clutch pedal.  Planned to drop the clutch in 1st and power out and the car just locked to the ground.   Tried several times to power out and just buried the rear tires. Took all the power I could apply while slipping the clutch to get the rear tires to turn.

Car went into neutral just fine, could grab 1st gear just fine but still like it was line locked.

Hopped out and checked the car out.  Checked rear midboard temps, warm on both sides but not hot.  Checked the front brakes and could jiggle the inner and outer brake pads.  Went to the back and couldn't get to the pads but decided to bleed off the brake lines and the calipers. No squirt of fluid and no difference in being locked to the earth. 

@Squatcher was with us and he mentioned he had an air bag jack at camp and a co2 bottle. So he went back to camp.  An hour passes, he comes back, we jack up the whole back of the car.  Grab the tires and they spin just fine. I thought I head a faint click when they turned and thought maybe the trans was locked into a couple of gears with the possibility of my down shifting without lifting the clutch between gears.  Car and trans worked fine the rest of the trip.

Forward to this last weekend.  Went out for a dune run Friday morning. Solo, Was enjoying a nice ride when I crested over another dune and had to break fast to avoid another chitty spot.  I also down shifted but from 2nd to 1st and never came to a stop.  Lifted the clutch and the engine shut off and the car locked to the ground again.  I played with the turning brakes and worked the shifter between gears a walla is was ok.  Drove out and finished that run.   It is brakes or the trans, I still dont know at this point.

Saturday, we leave Pad 2 for a morning run to Duners Dinner.  Good run no issue and make it there.  Head back from the dinner and were moving along and having fun.  Get back to Roadrunner and the group wants to play so we step up and into the dunes.  We're into the groove and we get the radio call that our buddy Tom has blown his engine. I circle back around to find him side hilled with a rod hanging out.  I roll into a flat are below the dune.  Get into neutral, let the clutch out and idle for a few minuets to cool off the engine.  Shut it down and we all enjoy a cold beverage and make the plans to tow out Tom.  

So I am up to the task and hop in to get into position.  Fire up, shift into 1st, let the clutch out and I am glued to the earth again.  No prior panic stop, basic roll into the spot without using the brakes.  Tried everything again, shift in and out no difference, bleed off all the brakes, no difference, tried to power out and just burried the car again.  

Send part of the group back to camp for the floor jacks and a shovel.  We dig under, get the jacks on both rear sides,  jack it up and the rear tires roll like last time.  Fill in the sand holes and drive out like nothing is wrong.

Can this S4 get stuck into 2 gears, can I have one gear maybe fused on one shaft? Is it a cool off period thats in play here? Trans temp was 178 deg when I stopped this time.

Or am I dealing with some brake issue.  

Brought the car home and planning on pulling the trans but have some hesitation as I just don't know whats actually happening.

Thanks in advance.

And just to be clear, This is not your classic spin the tires and get buried from a stop.

Erik
Sounds really crazy, and look forward to the answer. It does sound like the 2 gear thing since tires will turn, but what allows it to releases?

 
Sounds really crazy, and look forward to the answer. It does sound like the 2 gear thing since tires will turn, but what allows it to releases?
IF it's the trans, by jacking up the rear (both tires) we think its unloading the gear(s) which then allows some floating internally???? 

 
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