The Transaxle Thread

Guys, I need help! My 2D has been leaking for a while from what seems like the shift shaft seal at the nose cone. I remember reading it was a simple fix. I'm in the process of pulling the drive train and forgot about this, and really really don't want to re-install it in my new frame without fixing it. Is this a typical over the counter seal from local parts to some old VW? 

Edited to add: do I remove the nose cone or can that little donut seal be replaced from the outside?

 
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Chingon619 said:
Guys, I need help! My 2D has been leaking for a while from what seems like the shift shaft seal at the nose cone. I remember reading it was a simple fix. I'm in the process of pulling the drive train and forgot about this, and really really don't want to re-install it in my new frame without fixing it. Is this a typical over the counter seal from local parts to some old VW? 

Edited to add: do I remove the nose cone or can that little donut seal be replaced from the outside?
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These get tricky because there are many variations of nosecones used on these MD transaxles, basically whatever that builder had laying around to use at the time they built the trans. 

You might just replace the seal, but if the brass bushings inside the nosecone are worn down allowing the shift shaft to wobble, a new seal won't really fix the leak.

There are now 2 different types of seals for these nosecones. There is the common VW seal, and a Brazilian/Mexico seal on the newer nosecones that will say "Mexico" on them. Best to snap a picture of the seal/nosecone and e-mail it to me, or show to your local shop to get the right one.

If you are going to do it "right", you should replace the brass bushings in the nosecone to tighten up any play in the shift shaft. This requires removing the nosecone from the trans and knocking out the old bushings. This is a bit of a pain in the A$$ unless you have some quality bushing removal tools handy. Once you remove the bushings, you can measure the outside diameter of the bushing to know if you need early or late style bushings. Early bushings have a larger OD, later bushings have a smaller OD (We list these measurements on the parts on our website).

 
Anyone in the know, I'm running a 2 seat, V8, mid engine with a 2D. I've noticed that when making turns and accelerating, one of my wheels seem to play catch up after I straighten out. Then I feel like the wheels seem to get back in sync.

Is this normal? I don't seem to remember feeling  this before.   

Kevin

 
KLC said:
Ok thank you sir for your informative posts. 

When we bought our HV-24 we were swapping from a Honda/094 to an LS/HV-24. There were a lot of frame modifications made to accommodate the HV-24, it is a big bitch and heavy too. There are no real issues with it, other than some quirks to shifting it when cold first thing in the morning, but that goes away when warmed up. I am going to try some of the 75w-190 oil as you have suggested, instead of the LAT that I have been using, and I'll report back to the group if there were improvements in cold shiftability. 
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We had our first trip with the Maxima 75w-190 oil in the trans and I can say that it DOES indeed shift better. From stone cold in the morning to shifting when hot after a few hours of hard duning, there was zero shift grinds heard all weekend. I was pleased with the outcome of the oil swap.

 
Wejaz28 said:
Anyone in the know, I'm running a 2 seat, V8, mid engine with a 2D. I've noticed that when making turns and accelerating, one of my wheels seem to play catch up after I straighten out. Then I feel like the wheels seem to get back in sync.

Is this normal? I don't seem to remember feeling  this before.   

Kevin
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The 2D is built with an open differential. There is no limited slip or locking mechanism to drive equal power to both wheels. The issue you are describing above is normal. 

The differential will only drive power to the tire with the least resistance. If you are going through a tight bowl and accelerating hard, you will typically be spinning the inside tire since there is less traction on that tire compared to the outer. 

This can also happen under hard straight line accelerations. 

We do now offer our Weddle HV-520 limited slip diff that can be installed in MD/HV/ and S4/S5 transaxles. These will offer more equal power delivery to both tires in these types of conditions. The downside to them is that they can make the car "push" or go straight when accelerating through tight corners, especially in rear engine cars that lift the front end under acceleration. They will however divide equal power to both wheels in straight line accelerations. 

https://weddleindustries.com/products/new-products/new-torque-biasing-limited-slip-differential-hv-and-md-transaxles

 
Sean@Weddle said:
The 2D is built with an open differential. There is no limited slip or locking mechanism to drive equal power to both wheels. The issue you are describing above is normal. 

The differential will only drive power to the tire with the least resistance. If you are going through a tight bowl and accelerating hard, you will typically be spinning the inside tire since there is less traction on that tire compared to the outer. 

This can also happen under hard straight line accelerations. 

We do now offer our Weddle HV-520 limited slip diff that can be installed in MD/HV/ and S4/S5 transaxles. These will offer more equal power delivery to both tires in these types of conditions. The downside to them is that they can make the car "push" or go straight when accelerating through tight corners, especially in rear engine cars that lift the front end under acceleration. They will however divide equal power to both wheels in straight line accelerations. 

https://weddleindustries.com/products/new-products/new-torque-biasing-limited-slip-differential-hv-and-md-transaxles
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Little bit of a change in driving style will get around this: if you set the car up for a bit of a drift prior to hammering down, the limited slip will help the car pivot rather than push straight.  

 
Rockwood said:
Little bit of a change in driving style will get around this: if you set the car up for a bit of a drift prior to hammering down, the limited slip will help the car pivot rather than push straight.  
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Commitment is key. Setting the car up to slide and not catch and roll will require some adjustments. Works well for those that know how to use it, most would typically benefit from the standard open diff. 

 
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Sean@Weddle said:
Commitment is key. Setting the car up to slide and not catch and roll will requires me adjustments. Works well for those that know how to use it, most would typically benefit from the standard open diff. 
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Agree.  In the sand, open diff works perfectly fine and you can accomplish a lot more with the cutting brakes than a diff anyway.  I assume cutting brakes + helical = more $$$ for you guys? :biggrin:

 
Thanks for the responses. Good to know that it is not a mechanical issue. It does not bother me that much. Just wanted to make sure I did not have issue brewing.

Since I do not have turning brakes, I will set up a little earlier to create a better drift angle into tight turns. That will result in a straighter exit line and less wheel slippage.

 
Wejaz28 said:
Thanks for the responses. Good to know that it is not a mechanical issue. It does not bother me that much. Just wanted to make sure I did not have issue brewing.

Since I do not have turning brakes, I will set up a little earlier to create a better drift angle into tight turns. That will result in a straighter exit line and less wheel slippage.
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Plumb in some turning brakes to double the fun factor 👍

 
Haven't really needed them. Car turns on a dime. Have had rear engine cars in the past, and they benefited from them. 

Might consider them as a summer upgrade next summer....     

 
Which one is the fill hole on an S5?  I assumed it's the brass plug side, but it after reading the below and given the brass plug has a jam nut, I now think it's the large bolt on the opposite side :| ?
 

Called Weddle -it's the steel bolt.

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The fill plug will always be on the passenger/right side of the gearbox, no matter if rear or mid engine. Fill here until is spills out. Newer cases now have a plug directly on top of the case that you can fill oil into, until it spills out of the plug hole on the right side of the case.

The ring gear will always be located on the drivers/left side of the trans and have the brass bolt sticking out the side. Leave this one alone.

 
Sean@Weddle said:
The fill plug will always be on the passenger/right side of the gearbox, no matter if rear or mid engine. Fill here until is spills out. Newer cases now have a plug directly on top of the case that you can fill oil into, until it spills out of the plug hole on the right side of the case.

The ring gear will always be located on the drivers/left side of the trans and have the brass bolt sticking out the side. Leave this one alone.
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Hi Sean, 

Does the new S4/5D big bellhousing still have the gm 1 1/8 in- 26 spline input shaft? 

 
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