The Transaxle Thread

Speaking of TO bearings, I had to pull my engine out at the last minute at New Years to fix a hydraulic leak at the shaft mounted Albins actuator on my HV24. That sumbitch left a puddle on the ground in the garage just out of the blue one day. I was planning on ordering one of the $450 actuators and having it shipped Next Day Air to me from Weddle but wouldn't you know it, Weddle was closed for the week. I ended up getting a couple of repair kits from my buddy Bill at AZ Transaxle the same day and rebuilt my leaky one in 15 minutes after I had the engine out. The repair kits were $7 each. I bought a spare TO bearing in case I needed it but the old one was still in excellent condition so I left it on the actuator and put the new one in the moho for future use if needed. 

I revisited my clutch pedal stop adjustment once I reassembled but I left it alone as it measured out just fine. All has been good since. 

The Weddle 11" clutch I have been using for 2 years now still had a huge amount of friction material left on it, I was pleased with that. If anyone ever gets the opportunity to use a full sized LS bellhousing on their trans, I highly recommend doing so. The full sized 11" flywheel and clutch has serious holding power with the clutch pedal feel of a Kia. LOL

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KLC said:
 I was planning on ordering one of the $450 actuators and having it shipped Next Day Air to me from Weddle but wouldn't you know it, Weddle was closed for the week.
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We have never been closed for a week (only common holidays), but I was, and a few other sales staff, on a "covid vacation" for a week or so before Christmas. 

Clutch pedal stops are important. Happy to hear you got it sorted out.

 
So here is a question that I have pondered more than once and I think I know the answer but I wanted to hear what Sean has to say about it as it would apply to all of us really.  I start my engine a few times during the off season while in the garage and I have to think that all of the oil has drained down into the bottom of the gearcase, so when there is no forward movement of the wheels the bearings may be mostly dry. On rare occasion I have jacked up the rear of the car and put it into gear when I start it but I don't do that very often. 

Does it do any harm to the transaxle to run the engine and not drive it after it has been sitting for a few months?

 
KLC said:
So here is a question that I have pondered more than once and I think I know the answer but I wanted to hear what Sean has to say about it as it would apply to all of us really.  I start my engine a few times during the off season while in the garage and I have to think that all of the oil has drained down into the bottom of the gearcase, so when there is no forward movement of the wheels the bearings may be mostly dry. On rare occasion I have jacked up the rear of the car and put it into gear when I start it but I don't do that very often. 

Does it do any harm to the transaxle to run the engine and not drive it after it has been sitting for a few months?
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This is a great question I have wondered myself.  I also usually drive a little bit to turn all the gears and bearings, but don't know if it's really needed?  

 
KLC said:
So here is a question that I have pondered more than once and I think I know the answer but I wanted to hear what Sean has to say about it as it would apply to all of us really.  I start my engine a few times during the off season while in the garage and I have to think that all of the oil has drained down into the bottom of the gearcase, so when there is no forward movement of the wheels the bearings may be mostly dry. On rare occasion I have jacked up the rear of the car and put it into gear when I start it but I don't do that very often. 

Does it do any harm to the transaxle to run the engine and not drive it after it has been sitting for a few months?
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It's fine to run for a few minutes (4-5). Depending on the transaxle, the gears in the gearbox portion are actually rotating with engine speed in neutral, so there is some oil getting thrown around in there. 

The mainshaft needle bearing in the case, and input shaft seal are what typically suffer from letting it idle in neutral for too long, as there is no oil getting thrown at those parts unless the car is in motion. 

 
Sean@Weddle said:
It's fine to run for a few minutes (4-5). Depending on the transaxle, the gears in the gearbox portion are actually rotating with engine speed in neutral, so there is some oil getting thrown around in there. 

The mainshaft needle bearing in the case, and input shaft seal are what typically suffer from letting it idle in neutral for too long, as there is no oil getting thrown at those parts unless the car is in motion. 
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Oh look who's back from 2 days off. Missed chatting with you yesterday when I placed an order, whoever helped me was way cool. See you at the SSSS?

 
A question for Sean...Was poking around the Weddle website and I noticed that the price of an HV24 is now $15,995, which puts it at the same cost as an S4. Did Weddle seriously increase the price by $7000?

I want to install the internal oil pump in my HV24, where is the pump located and how much work is it to put it in? I have the technical expertise to do it I've been a tech for 35 years, I tell people that if a human has assembled something then I can surely take it apart and fix it lol. 

I know the internal pump is driven only with motion of the wheels, can the oil pump circuit be externally tapped and a cooler and filter be installed or is it better to just use an external pump for that and not even bother with the internal pump?

 
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@Sean@Weddle Did the price of an Albins really just increase by $10,000.00? Making it $35,000.00 plus shifter and clutch?

 
Coryz71 said:
@Sean@Weddle Did the price of an Albins really just increase by $10,000.00? Making it $35,000.00 plus shifter and clutch?
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This is true. 

It's actually been a long time coming. Albins has been threatening to raise pricing on all of their products for the past 5 or 6 years. The increases in raw materials this past few years finally forced them to get things in order. It's a stiff increase, but we have not raised prices on these since 2010, so instead of a few small increases over the years, it's one big increase this year.

For what it's worth, our S4D sells for $17,500 and I will put it up against about 1400 HP/TQ at the crank. There are few high powered cars running these with all of our updates and upgrades last season with good results. 

 
Sean@Weddle said:
For what it's worth, our S4D sells for $17,500 and I will put it up against about 1400 HP/TQ at the crank. There are few high powered cars running these with all of our updates and upgrades last season with good results. 
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What is the Albins rated for in comparison?

 
HTElectrical said:
What is the Albins rated for in comparison?
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About the same for reliability. (1500 HP/TQ at the crank)

The Pad 3 "ballers" are pushing upwards of 2000 through them and finding the limits of the gear teeth within a weekend. 

 
@Sean@Weddle Any recommendations for a shop near Havasu for a 2D rebuild?  It still runs, but I stopped driving it once I heard noise so not to make it worse.

 
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