The official Honda Thread

I just recently had my turbo rebuilt by Turbos Direct, the center cartridge needed to be replaced due to the oil cooking it.  They suggested I either add an oil cooler or run water through the turbo.  I see a couple threads discussing an oil cooler on the Hondas, but does anyone just add water cooling?  Which would be better?  If the oil is getting that hot would an oil cooler be the clear winner since the oil is probably too hot over all???

I got three cars that have this issue as we all built them roughly the same time and the same way. 

 
LtPyro said:
I just recently had my turbo rebuilt by Turbos Direct, the center cartridge needed to be replaced due to the oil cooking it.  They suggested I either add an oil cooler or run water through the turbo.  I see a couple threads discussing an oil cooler on the Hondas, but does anyone just add water cooling?  Which would be better?  If the oil is getting that hot would an oil cooler be the clear winner since the oil is probably too hot over all???

I got three cars that have this issue as we all built them roughly the same time and the same way. 
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Did they mention that you're supposed to idle the car after every single run? That's how the oil gets cooked in the turbo. Running the car and then shutting it off causes the oil sit there and cook.

I was running water in my dual ball bearing Garrett turbo. 

 
My turbo is 8 years old and has never been rebuilt.  Roughly 200 days of duning.  I just idle a few minutes after a run, heck all our SxS's do the same thing.  

 
LegitDuner said:
Did they mention that you're supposed to idle the car after every single run? That's how the oil gets cooked in the turbo. Running the car and then shutting it off causes the oil sit there and cook.
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Same thing with turbo diesel trucks.  there are also 'auto turbo timers' for this very situation

 
LegitDuner said:
Did they mention that you're supposed to idle the car after every single run? That's how the oil gets cooked in the turbo. Running the car and then shutting it off causes the oil sit there and cook.

I was running water in my dual ball bearing Garrett turbo. 
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Ya, he asked about that.  I always let it idle for approx 2 mins or so.  I get out drab a drink from the cooler and then slowly think about turning it off.

 
Happy post-Thanksgiving Monday, Honda gurus! Hope y'all had a great holiday weekend.

If you want to laugh along with me at my own stupidity, read the long paragraph. If you're only interested in the questions, just skip to the end, LOL.

So, after a long summer of chasing codes and replacing worn parts, and with a new EDU plus a lot of help from @Carwashguru and @Kraut_n_Rice, I had my buggy running GREAT and ready for the annual turkey trip. I needed to rebuild the carburetors on my kiddo's quads, so the week before we left I moved the buggy to the side yard and the quads into the garage. I covered the buggy with a tarp, of course. So, Thursday night I go to load the buggy onto the trailer and it won't start. My brain immediately went to dead or low batter, so I hook it up to my Jeep and get a friend to jump in and tow me up the street so I can bump start it. Once the tires locked up and dragged a few feet my brain said OH $H1T! I wonder if water got in through the air cleaners during that rain storm? That tarp is kind of worn from a couple summers and those air cleaners tilt up. Too late, gotta go, let's deal with it in camp. Next morning at camp we pulled the plugs, cranked it over and a geyser shot out of passenger side front cylinder. At this point I'm hoping maybe I didn't cause too much damage internally and it might still run, hoping to change the oil and go. Nope. Fired it up and it's knocking something fierce. I believe it's likely a bent rod. So, I'm kicking myself for NOT thinking about water BEFORE trying to bump start it, ha ha ha. Oh well, you win some and you lose some, still had a great trip on the quads and any time in the sand is a good time in my opinion. It's all just part of the adventure.

Anybody know of a good shop in the Inland Empire, Orange County, L.A. or San Diego areas that does Honda engine rebuilds? I already called Chris at H Car Garage (mentioned earlier in this thread) and as of this morning he's booked out one year.

Also, any opinions on the value of a rebuild versus just going with a JDM replacement?

Cheers!

FrankenbuggieGeyser.jpg

 
MADMANX said:
Happy post-Thanksgiving Monday, Honda gurus! Hope y'all had a great holiday weekend.

If you want to laugh along with me at my own stupidity, read the long paragraph. If you're only interested in the questions, just skip to the end, LOL.

So, after a long summer of chasing codes and replacing worn parts, and with a new EDU plus a lot of help from @Carwashguru and @Kraut_n_Rice, I had my buggy running GREAT and ready for the annual turkey trip. I needed to rebuild the carburetors on my kiddo's quads, so the week before we left I moved the buggy to the side yard and the quads into the garage. I covered the buggy with a tarp, of course. So, Thursday night I go to load the buggy onto the trailer and it won't start. My brain immediately went to dead or low batter, so I hook it up to my Jeep and get a friend to jump in and tow me up the street so I can bump start it. Once the tires locked up and dragged a few feet my brain said OH $H1T! I wonder if water got in through the air cleaners during that rain storm? That tarp is kind of worn from a couple summers and those air cleaners tilt up. Too late, gotta go, let's deal with it in camp. Next morning at camp we pulled the plugs, cranked it over and a geyser shot out of passenger side front cylinder. At this point I'm hoping maybe I didn't cause too much damage internally and it might still run, hoping to change the oil and go. Nope. Fired it up and it's knocking something fierce. I believe it's likely a bent rod. So, I'm kicking myself for NOT thinking about water BEFORE trying to bump start it, ha ha ha. Oh well, you win some and you lose some, still had a great trip on the quads and any time in the sand is a good time in my opinion. It's all just part of the adventure.

Anybody know of a good shop in the Inland Empire, Orange County, L.A. or San Diego areas that does Honda engine rebuilds? I already called Chris at H Car Garage (mentioned earlier in this thread) and as of this morning he's booked out one year.

Also, any opinions on the value of a rebuild versus just going with a JDM replacement?

Cheers!

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You can go that way, rebuild. I always just got another motor out of salvage and never had any issues. I know of a 3.2s motor that is ready to go. We ran it for a couple of years then swapped to a 3.5a4. S motor likes upper rpm range and the driver did not enjoy driving it that way.

 
richard h said:
You can go that way, rebuild. I always just got another motor out of salvage and never had any issues. I know of a 3.2s motor that is ready to go. We ran it for a couple of years then swapped to a 3.5a4. S motor likes upper rpm range and the driver did not enjoy driving it that way.
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Yeah, I think I'm sort of leaning toward a salvage or JDM replacement at this point, but sort of curious about the rebuild. The think I like about mine is that it's a 3.5 with the 3.2 heads and I dig the way it runs. Well, the way it ran, ha ha ha. I suppose I could just swap the heads onto a salvaged 3.5 too...

Thanks for the response!

 
Junkyard motor is usually 600$ and takes 3 hours to r&r. 

 
Jtmoney714 said:
Junkyard motor is usually 600$ and takes 3 hours to r&r. 
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Last one a friend got at a u pull it. Got complete harness, motor and everything he could think he might need. $250.00, but he did have to pull it. 3.5A4

 
To save time, I would just pull one from a yard or grab one that someone already pulled. 

I did have my engine built but it was pricey (Close to 5K) and I got a hook up on the labor.

I would just use a junkyard block till you are ready for boost. 

Use Car-part.com and that will tell you all the wrecking yards near you that have them in stock.

Make sure you put a new rear main seal in it before the install.

 
So, a first for me. Went out to start my car yesterday and it wouldn't. Fuel pump ran and pressurized lines, starter cranked but no go. Went through the list and nothing. No wet injectors, no spark? Realized it was cranking just a tiny bit less than normal but certainly not enough imo to keep it from not starting. Well, after many attempts I jumped the battery and bingo! Never had seen that before where battery was what seemed just slightly diminishes and it kept motor from starting. Guess between fuel pump and starter motor there wasn't enough power to supply other needed items.

 
These ECUs are very sensitive to battery voltage.  The engine will appear to be cranking fast enough, but the supply voltage drops low enough the ECU won't function.  Wasn't uncommon for us to get cars towed in as "crank, no start", and all it needed was a battery.

 
Hey guys,

I’ve been following this thread and am currently in the process of doing a Honda swap taking out my Subaru. I’ve got most of it figured out, have the wiring all wrapped up thanks to kraut_n_rice.

the engine is a j35a4 I’m running the stock ECU and plan to run about 7psi with the turbo. The engine was supplied by vtec performance before Carl stopped doing them. So when I got it it had the missing link at the map, sensor has a vortech FMU and a Pierburg fuel pump that when I look up the specs runs at 95 psi. My questions mainly come down to the fuel lines. Attached is a picture of the stock fuel regulator I assume the lower nipple is fuel return and the upper goes to vacuum?

I see the fuel supply is a banjo bolt fitting with a short piece of hose. I’m wondering what are you guys doing for connections to the stock fittings that won’t be an issue blowing off under pressure when under boost?  I see you can maybe find a banjo to AN fitting on the supply line but the return has the stock nipple so wasn’t sure when the return line builds pressure by the FMU if a regular clamp would hold.

IMG_0262.jpeg

 
So mine is with a Bosch 044 pump and this is my return line. Supply line I cut off regulator and just clamped a hose in its placeIMG_2128.JPG

 
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