Speed UTV

[Chingon619]

I’m wondering the same as the cage would have to twist quite a bit for the latch to come undone.

Doubt it. Looks like maybe 3/8" is all that flushes on that pin. No way that net frame isn't twisting up 3/8" easily.

 

[tjZ06]

 Yep I even wiped the rear windshield for them after I filled them up.  LMAO!!!!

Mighty kind of ya! 

I’m wondering the same as the cage would have to twist quite a bit for the latch to come undone.

It’s hard to tell from the pic but it looks like the “T” handle is bottomed out in the assembly?

Doubt it. Looks like maybe 3/8" is all that flushes on that pin. No way that net frame isn't twisting up 3/8" easily.

How tight is your cable, it might not be allowing the pin to extend far enough

The cable sits loose, and yes the pin is bottomed out in the assembly.  I agree the window frame assembly isn't twisting up enough to let the pin out... but I'm wondering if the actual impacts of tumbling allow the pin to cycle?  A stiffer return spring would solve that, I suppose... and/or a slightly longer pin.  

I hadn't though of flopping appendages being the culprit, but it does sound plausible.  Wouldn't be hard at all to just remove that wire and honestly, operation isn't that much tougher without it.  

-TJ

 

[tjZ06]

Trying to see how that latch works. Is that like some sort of catch on the door frame pillar? Do you think if you cut the welds and moved the “T” pin assembly out and reweld it would work? What are your thoughts?

I'm not sure I follow.  It's a super-simple assembly.  It's basically just a spring-loaded pin with a "t handle."  This isn't the exact item, but basically this: 

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2215.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQE4JPMclN4EfUYfbgfAca6Mid3Zafh28zlvcuzX6tSJ5TGqb-pA7QRoC2TcQAvD_BwE

Even though it's closed, you can actually see it pretty clearly in the vid I posted earlier:

The pin goes into a hole in a block that's just clamped around the cage:



View attachment 99518

Now that I mention it, I'm wondering if that clamp is rotating allowing the pin to release?  If so, I'm sure it'd be pretty easy to just put some rubber under the clamp and keep it good 'n tight to avoid that issue. 

-TJ

 

[Big_Daddy_Jp]

27 minutes ago, tjZ06 said:

I'm not sure I follow.  It's a super-simple assembly.  It's basically just a spring-loaded pin with a "t handle."  This isn't the exact item, but basically this: 



https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2215.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQE4JPMclN4EfUYfbgfAca6Mid3Zafh28zlvcuzX6tSJ5TGqb-pA7QRoC2TcQAvD_BwE

Even though it's closed, you can actually see it pretty clearly in the vid I posted earlier:

Yes the clamp is what I was asking about. I was wondering if that was moving or something? 

 

[Rockwood]

Mighty kind of ya! 

The cable sits loose, and yes the pin is bottomed out in the assembly.  I agree the window frame assembly isn't twisting up enough to let the pin out... but I'm wondering if the actual impacts of tumbling allow the pin to cycle?  A stiffer return spring would solve that, I suppose... and/or a slightly longer pin.  

I hadn't though of flopping appendages being the culprit, but it does sound plausible.  Wouldn't be hard at all to just remove that wire and honestly, operation isn't that much tougher without it.  

-TJ

Attach a ratchet strap to pull on it semi-taught and swat at the cable?

 

[tjZ06]

Yes the clamp is what I was asking about. I was wondering if that was moving or something? 

Very possible... I was thinking in a bad wreck (like Max had) either flex in everything or the force or an arm hitting the window net hard could rotate it.  Either tacking it in place, or putting rubber under the clamped-in block and making sure it's super tight might be a simple fix.

-TJ

 

[tjZ06]

Attach a ratchet strap to pull on it semi-taught and swat at the cable?

I guess... but in a bad wreck and elbow coming down on it with a lot of force is a lot more than a swat.  I think really, (one of) the correct solution(s) is just eliminating that cable.  Yes, it's a nice convenience, but if you want convenience over safety just eliminate the nets, right?  

-TJ

 

[FOG]

I guess... but in a bad wreck and elbow coming down on it with a lot of force is a lot more than a swat.  I think really, (one of) the correct solution(s) is just eliminating that cable.  Yes, it's a nice convenience, but if you want convenience over safety just eliminate the nets, right?  

-TJ

Why not have both?  I have been driving with wrist restraints in my sand rails for several years.  I also removed the nets in my SxS and went with wrist restraints.

 

[tjZ06]

Why not have both?  I have been driving with wrist restraints in my sand rails for several years.  I also removed the nets in my SxS and went with wrist restraints.

Really, that's the correct answer for people that care.  As long as you know your restraints well and know how to get out of them quickly if/when needed. 

-TJ

 

[Rockwood]

I guess... but in a bad wreck and elbow coming down on it with a lot of force is a lot more than a swat.  I think really, (one of) the correct solution(s) is just eliminating that cable.  Yes, it's a nice convenience, but if you want convenience over safety just eliminate the nets, right?  

-TJ

I was only saying to swat so you’re not destroying your chit during testing. :biggrin:

But yeah. Anything easy to release will be easy to open when you don’t want it. We had to practice and prove we could get out of a racecar in under 10s to pass tech. 

Only bummer is it looks like the release is behind you, which means it’ll be hard to F with in an emergency.

 

[tjZ06]

I was only saying to swat so you’re not destroying your chit during testing. :biggrin:

But yeah. Anything easy to release will be easy to open when you don’t want it. We had to practice and prove we could get out of a racecar in under 10s to pass tech. 

Only bummer is it looks like the release is behind you, which means it’ll be hard to F with in an emergency.

Yeah, I had to do that with my C5Z.  Both the window net, and the net that was required on my right side that went down to the dash had old-school GM style seat belt latches.  You could argue that if you were dazed from a tumble, or actively on fire those would be a bit hard to operate.  At the end of the day there's no "perfect" solution.  All safety aids/systems are there to reduce the chances you die.  Ultimately, none of them can guarantee they work perfectly in every situation and allow you to get out safely.  If you're unconscious they're all pretty hard to operate... 

If we all want to be "safe" all the time we'd be bubble boys and just stay indoors in our sanitized and filtered environments.  Everything we choose to do for our hobby is risky, period.  That said, I don't think or hobby is any more risky (if done right) than me getting on an airplane at least twice a week (or the Uber/Lyft rides to/from the airports).  

I want to take reasonable measures to make the stupid crap we do safe-ish.  I want to make improvements to obviously flawed designs in safety systems.  But none of us can fully engineer-out all risk...

-TJ

 

[LegitDuner]

Here's what Gibson came up with their exhaust. Almost sounds like a two-stroke.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3D6Lwjy2aP/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

[kazuaki]

I'm catching up on the window net posts. It looks like that mechanism is fairly robust.  I figured it was something a little more lightweight.  The gap between the window net frame and the block on the cage looks fairly tight too. I guess a hard front impact could maybe cause the weight of the pin to open itself? Does the gas strut put a lot of outward pressure on the net (trying to open it) while it's latched? Seems like everything would have to happen just right (or wrong) for that to open, assuming that's the cause.

 

[FOG]

Really, that's the correct answer for people that care.  As long as you know your restraints well and know how to get out of them quickly if/when needed. 

-TJ

The wrist restraints that I use come out automatically when you unbuckle your harness.

 

[megadesertdiesel]

question for you Speed They/Them.  what does the TPMS system look like in the wheel or is it a cap?   Does it work with low pressure?  Would be a great thing to have for dirt tires. 

 

[WheresHotBoat]

question for you Speed They/Them.  what does the TPMS system look like in the wheel or is it a cap?   Does it work with low pressure?  Would be a great thing to have for dirt tires. 

Havent had to take apart a tire/wheel yet, but it is not a valve stem cap. I definitely will read at least down to 10lbs.

 

[megadesertdiesel]

Havent had to take apart a tire/wheel yet, but it is not a valve stem cap. I definitely will read at least down to 10lbs.

neat feature for sure, i hope to see that in future sxs. 

 

[dunenigma]

21 hours ago, tjZ06 said:

I'm not sure I follow.  It's a super-simple assembly.  It's basically just a spring-loaded pin with a "t handle."  This isn't the exact item, but basically this: 



https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2215.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkuqvBhAQEiwA65XxQE4JPMclN4EfUYfbgfAca6Mid3Zafh28zlvcuzX6tSJ5TGqb-pA7QRoC2TcQAvD_BwE

Even though it's closed, you can actually see it pretty clearly in the vid I posted earlier:

A 1/2" stroke on the pin imo isn't enough when taking into consideration frame flex and other factors. Maybe a 1" stroke ? Or more.

 

[tjZ06]

A 1/2" stroke on the pin imo isn't enough when taking into consideration frame flex and other factors. Maybe a 1" stroke ? Or more.

To be fair I didn't actually measure stroke.  Like I said, that is not the exact part, just a representative *similar* part. 

-TJ

 

[DZRTRUN]

We registered ours with Arizona DMV. She asked for the invoice and charged me tax. It was right at 2k to register the car.