Speed UTV

NIKAL said:
More then will admit it. One guy on RDC must have a grudge against RG as everything down to the Havasu location is negative talk. But yesterday he said it’s not fair to compare what Robby is building, to the other guys, as Speeds built like a race car and Polaris & Can Am build fun play cars. Then he said Robbys targeting the desert / Dune crowd? Like Polaris & Can Am don’t? 
 

Just his way to spin and justify it now that he can’t honestly say the RZR Turbo R, new Pro R, Turbo R or X3 are at the same engineering level as the Speed is. 
 

But to be honest the Speed car is not for everyone. Let’s face it the Speed, Pro R or X3 is not in everyone’s budget. Not everyone needs a Ferrari when a Mustang or Camaro will get you out having fun,  and in a more reasonable budget. I still think the XX & KRX and very nice and under rated machines. But most think of you don’t have a turbo or 72 inches wide it’s not worth it. 
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Same people who insist on tons and 40s so they can drive on forest roads. Lol

 
JBL said:
You and all the non-believers out there.  I wonder how many folks are eating crow now. 
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Show me where I was a non-believer. Funny is funny if it’s a meme.  

 
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I don’t believe all of them were non believers or haters. They just didn’t drink the sweet tasting kool aid RG was serving up is all. 😉 I was one of them until this site brought it to my attention that RG was going to start building these things.(Believe @DTA was the OG thread so thanks buds!)  RG already had in my humble opinion the best suspension on the XX that has since evolved even more with his brand. All the little intricacies of this new SXS had me sold. Glad I started watching his presentations early on as I have learned a lot from them! Safety was my number one concern and geometry second. With the 300 hp. Speed key …. It was a no brainer. 
 

Was I hesitant cause it would be a new drivetrain? Absolutely! But when he got with some of the gurus in the industry and teamed up with them, I felt way more confident to put my deposit down. Can’t wait to go riding this season which for us starts November. 🤞🏽

 
stonehenge said:
I noticed that also, kinda weird he didn't do a video of at least one of the fully completed cars on their way to the SSSS?

Another curious thing maybe someone can enlighten all the peasants here, he stated, "we all know what R Z R stands for"  well raise my rent, I have no idea what R Z R stands for?  
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+1 for the reference! :lol:  

 
The road 200 should be no problem.

What really made me see the whole picture of the design was the video of the actual production chassis and suspension. RG explaining it was great.   Yes he did that with the CAD drawings, but at that point it was just concept and talk.  Seeing the final product was much better for me.  

@nikal with regard to the hub and support how is it different than what Polaris did with Pro R?  

 
NIKAL said:
More then will admit it. One guy on RDC must have a grudge against RG as everything down to the Havasu location is negative talk. But yesterday he said it’s not fair to compare what Robby is building, to the other guys, as Speeds built like a race car and Polaris & Can Am build fun play cars. Then he said Robbys targeting the desert / Dune crowd? Like Polaris & Can Am don’t? 
 

Just his way to spin and justify it now that he can’t honestly say the RZR Turbo R, new Pro R, Turbo R or X3 are at the same engineering level as the Speed is. 
 

But to be honest the Speed car is not for everyone. Let’s face it the Speed, Pro R or X3 is not in everyone’s budget. Not everyone needs a Ferrari when a Mustang or Camaro will get you out having fun,  and in a more reasonable budget. I still think the XX & KRX and very nice and under rated machines. But most think of you don’t have a turbo or 72 inches wide it’s not worth it. 
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I wish I’d stuck with the 64” wide (68” with bead locks). Too much body roll at the height for the 72” models. Unless you like rock crawling… stay low IMO.

abc

 
jginsandiego said:
Unless things have changed there are two versions the non-bead lock which are coming on the base models and the bead lock which are coming on all the other models I’m assuming that applies to both the spoke and the ones with the round circles Then I believe you can get them in black or aluminum finish 

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Wow. Make a statement, ask a question and learn something. This thread is great and the above picture is worth a thousand words. 
However, it made me think of another question regarding the strength of the inner part of the wheel that goes toward the car. With all of the support on the outside edge of the wheel and rim will the inside of the wheel rim be subjected to more fatigue without support to the hub that is closer to it’s edge?

 
michael.gonzalez said:
Rzr wheels are not hub centric. They are lug centric.

Speed/RG wheels are hub centric. The studs see no shear load. Only tension.
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Technically, if the studs are sized and torqued correctly, they won’t see much shear load either way.  :biggrin:

Hub centric or lug centric, neither the lugs nor the centerbore should ever see significant shear loading. This is why a lot of wheels use a plastic centering ring on hubcebtric cars and it’s usually never a problem.  Are  RZR/X3 wheel studs failing? I’ve seen shattered wheels with the whee center still bolted to the hub…

If the SPEED UTV’s hubs are machined tight enough to actually carry significant shear load, Robby’s gonna have a lot of pissed off customers when they go to remove tires, lol.

FOG said:
Wow. Make a statement, ask a question and learn something. This thread is great and the above picture is worth a thousand words. 
However, it made me think of another question regarding the strength of the inner part of the wheel that goes toward the car. With all of the support on the outside edge of the wheel and rim will the inside of the wheel rim be subjected to more fatigue without support to the hub that is closer to it’s edge?
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It’s a beadlock that eats itself if assembled incorrectly. Not for the faint of heart and I’m sure Joe Public will blame Robby because they don’t understand how it works. 

 
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Rockwood said:
Technically, if the studs are sized and torqued correctly, they won’t see shear load either. :biggrin:

It’s a beadlock that eats itself if assembled incorrectly. Not for the faint of heart and I’m sure Joe Public will blame Robby because they don’t understand how it works. 
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I hate to say they’re is a whole bunch of “special people” that will destroy crap and blame the manufacturer. 

 
FOG said:
Wow. Make a statement, ask a question and learn something. This thread is great and the above picture is worth a thousand words. 
However, it made me think of another question regarding the strength of the inner part of the wheel that goes toward the car. With all of the support on the outside edge of the wheel and rim will the inside of the wheel rim be subjected to more fatigue without support to the hub that is closer to it’s edge?
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The design is holding up on his TT with 40’s and race speeds. Being hub centric, wheels on TT are 5 lug instead of normal TT bolt pattern. 

 
I remember him saying that by having the face as the bead lock it also helps relieve the stress/load off the bearings themselves. That’s when he talked about “swallowing the load”. Wheels swallowing the hubs. 
 

Also, he weighed the wheels and they came in at 16-17 pounds without bolts so maybe 18ish pounds per wheel with bead lock bolts. Not sure what the average bead locks weighs? 

 
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Sand Shark said:
The road 200 should be no problem.

What really made me see the whole picture of the design was the video of the actual production chassis and suspension. RG explaining it was great.   Yes he did that with the CAD drawings, but at that point it was just concept and talk.  Seeing the final product was much better for me.  

@nikal with regard to the hub and support how is it different than what Polaris did with Pro R?  
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Then it will be the road to 250. We will be asking all the new Speed owners this ....



 
NIKAL said:
Regarding shearing lugs. I don’t know about anyone shearing lugs in a general recreation usage anymore. Polaris upped the stud size when they created the 1000, now and added a fifth lug on the new Pro R & turbo. 
 

But in a race or extreme use, I know most still run aftermarket hubs and wheel studs as they would break in race conditions, but I think it’s more hub then studs, especially in a side load condition. I’m trying to remember who? Maybe Kristen Matlock? Maybe someone else? But on IG they mentioned having to knock out a broken stud and replace in a pit. 
 

I don’t think the Speed hub centric is going to be a problem. It’s not a new idea, just new on the SXS industry. Pretty much most of the classes in racing run a hub centric center cap. TT, TT spec, class 1, class 10, 5, 1600 etc. it also helps mount the wheels in a pit. 

Most play /sand buggies have a small hub centric lip on the hub face or cap. 
 

Pro Am & Jamar big stuff use the center cap to support the wheel. 
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Lighter weight Jamar & CNC used a small cap or machined lip in the hub. 
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Even my Chevy Silverado has a hub lip to help support and center the wheel. 
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I know those are hubcebtric, that’s not what I’m saying. What I’m saying is for the hubcebtric ring to carry load on something that rolls like a wheel, it would have to be a VERY tight fit in order to take load away from the studs. If they’re that tight, the hub and wheel are gonna get very fond of each other when you add water and heat cycling. 

Otherwise, they’re helping carry the weight of the vehicle if there’s a problem, like dipshit bubba said “I don’t need no stinkin torque wrench, I give her 4 ugga duggas each.” :biggrin:

The lip on your Chebby is mainly to center the brake rotor, and yes, center the wheel so you can slam lug nuts down on the first go without having to worry about the wheel being off-kilter. :biggrin:

 
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Are these wheels going to have to be balanced after the tire is mounted or will it not be needed . I feel at the speeds it is capable of it will need to be to some extent. 

 
Pyrocoyote1 said:
Are these wheels going to have to be balanced after the tire is mounted or will it not be needed . I feel at the speeds it is capable of it will need to be to some extent. 
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For offroad, I think balancing beads are a better bet anyway.  

 
michael.gonzalez said:
Correct. Robby stated the hub and wheel centerbore have tight tolerances to accomplish this.
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Huh.  Definitely overbuilt. Cool.

Either way, I suggest anti-seize on that snout, or packing a BFH to get it off after a couple hundred heat-cycles and salty desert mud.   :biggrin:

 
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