New Polaris Pro R

Also, FWIW seats take less than 30 seconds to take out, that's both sides.  IF there was a big access panel in the firewall and the clutch-cover was then easy to access I don't really see it as a big deal for belt changes.  

-TJ

 
There is something wrong with either the clutch/clutch setup, or the nut behind the wheel.  I run our '18 XPT from time to time, when the rail is down or just for shits 'n giggles.  I know I've posted these pics on this forum multiple times, but this wa a hot day (90+) late in the season when the dunes were empty and we were jamming.  I did have to slow-up for ECTs (not dangerous, but when I get to 217-219 I check up) after a looooong session following these guys (well, following 2, I passed the Tatum) but I had NO belt issues on this run:

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The Funco is a Gen6 with a E85 TT LS3.  The AlumiCraft is a ~415cui 4.0L Whipple LS3 (pump gas, I think) and the Tatum was also a 4.0L Whipple LS3 (I believe also ~415, and it might have been on good fuel).  All the drivers spend a LOT of time in the dunes and know what they're doing.  Now, I want to be clear - I'm not saying they were trying to shake me, or going 10/10.  I'm not saying I could hang with any of them 1:1.  But my point is, it was a pretty fast ride with 3 of the best cars in the industry, all with 5x the HP I had in the XPT, and I hung with NO belt problems. 

A common thing I see is a guy will go ~1k miles without blowing a belt.  Then they'll blow their first belt, and after that they shred them non-stop.  For some reason that never seems to strike anybody as strange, or wrong.  Almost always the clutches were damaged in some way when that first belt went, and that is causing the accelerated subsequent belt failures.  I used to have a long thread w/ pics/instructions on clutch removal, disassembly, maintenance and cleaning but I think it got lost in the sever failure. 

Oh, that brings up another point: belt covers.  There are those that refuse to run without them, but IMHO for duning you simply CANNOT run a belt cover on a turbo machine.  I only have lost one belt in my stock-motor RZRs and that was in my '16 XPT when I still ran the cover.  After that I tried no cover, and saw 100+ belt temp reductions (using an infrared belt temp sensor pointed at the belt itself, so TRUE belt time).  Once I stopped running the cover, I never had another failure (*knock on wood*).  Of course, my 40psi of boost, 2300+lbs Z1 machine was a different story and ate belts, but it had all sorts of issues and was just too much power (300+ to the tires at 40psi) for such a heavy machine (and Yuge paddles). 

People will argue that the sand getting in the clutches accelerates wear, but I've been running our '18 XPT this way in G the whole time, and I disassemble the clutches often.  So far I replaced 3 sliders in the secondary at $15/ea and they weren't even shot, just showing some wear.   IMHO you see far more damage (and far more expensive damage) to the clutches when belts break.  Also, on RZRs (might be same for X3s) when you shred a belt and pieces wrap up around the crank or trans input haft behind the clutch, you can kill those seals which are way more $/work to replace.  Finally, if you've ever taken a belt cover off a SxS that runs in G a lot what do you always find?  Sand.  So, I figure open up at least the clutches can chuck the sand out, stay cool, and not get damaged by belt failures. 

-TJ
im new to the turbo rzr (21 turbo s velocity), but not glamis. 

would love to see that write up on the clutch. im really not that handy with a wrench thats why i bought the extended warranty. if i took off the clutch cover do you need to do any cleaning or maintenance that needs to be done after a trip? 95% of my riding is in glamis. might do one dirt trip during the year. what about weather like rain, wet sand days. 

i have only seen a few machines with out the cover and always wondered about this.  i know this tread is about the new pro but your comments sparked some questions about the current rzr.

 
im new to the turbo rzr (21 turbo s velocity), but not glamis. 

would love to see that write up on the clutch. im really not that handy with a wrench thats why i bought the extended warranty. if i took off the clutch cover do you need to do any cleaning or maintenance that needs to be done after a trip? 95% of my riding is in glamis. might do one dirt trip during the year. what about weather like rain, wet sand days. 

i have only seen a few machines with out the cover and always wondered about this.  i know this tread is about the new pro but your comments sparked some questions about the current rzr.
I wish I could find that thread, but I think it's just gone.  I probably have the pics somewhere, and could try to recreate it "someday."  With the cover off, you want to try to blow it out each morning... but honestly as soon as you start it and bring the Rs up so it spins the whole assembly and starts to shift in/out it clears out itself.  I really don't blow them out during trips unless it was super windy the day before and I'm blowing the whole RZR out anyway.  TBH, I haven't run it in really wet sand without the cover, usually R days become days to hang out in one of the stackers and drink, lol.  Usually by the next day the sand on top isn't wet 'nough to load up in the clutches.  FWIW, the maintenance isn't "hard" but does take some specific tools. 

-TJ

 
HUH????

My buddies son blows at least 1 belt a trip.

He spent a chunk of change on 3 belts from the mullet.  LOL
What model does he have.. ? I’ve been through over 25 belts on my ‘14, often 2 per Glamis trip. … over like 4/5 seasons.
 

Last season I didn’t air down my all terrain bead locks to 4-6 psi like I normally do inGlamis (prior trip was aired up for dirt) and it worked.. whole season didn’t bust 1 belt…so now I continue to run them at 18-20psi.
 

Model is 2 seat NA XP1000 ‘14. … so I figured out my issue and I really don’t notice any performance or ride difference being aired up. 

Haven’t changed a single belt in the ‘19 Turbo S Velocity since I bought it new… I also have it ‘aired up.’

abc

PS. Side note, I only have 20 minutes since blowing the motor and moving to a 1110cc big bore … so we’ll see if the belt(s) survive….

 
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What model does he have.. ? I’ve been through over 25 belts on my ‘14, often 2 per Glamis trip. … over like 4/5 seasons.
 

Didn’t air down my all terrain bead locks to 4-6 psi like I normally do on one Glamis trip (prior trip was aired up for dirt) so now I continue to run them at 18-20psi and I haven’t broken a belt for a full season in the 2 seat NA XP1000 ‘14. … so I figured out my issue and I really don’t notice any performance or ride difference being aired up.

Haven’t changed a single belt in the ‘19 Turbo S Velocity since I bought it new… I also have it ‘aired up.’

abc
Turbo S?  I don't know the  models very well.

It was the give away Razor at the sand show here in Phoenix in 2020.

My buddy won it.

 
HUH????

My buddies son blows at least 1 belt a trip.

He spent a chunk of change on 3 belts from the mullet.  LOL
Sounds like the son just mashes the throttle all the time or the clutch needs a major tuning. 

Belt issues should be far a few between these days.   

 
Also, FWIW seats take less than 30 seconds to take out, that's both sides.  IF there was a big access panel in the firewall and the clutch-cover was then easy to access I don't really see it as a big deal for belt changes.  

-TJ
I think Polaris is smart enough to know to make access to the belt easy.   We will see what they came up with on the 9th.  

 
Also, there is a break in period for the belt. If you blow a belt and just throw another “new” one on, it will prematurely fail.  
 

 
I think it is a good move if polaris calls it something other than a UTV or SxS. The 1000cc limit has made the category a great entry into offroad for millions of people. As we see every weekend, many drivers can't even handle what a 1000cc UTV puts out.  Like them or hate them, SxS have done a lot of good (not all good) for the industry. A 2.0L motor is going to have more area under the torque curve than a 925cc turbo......

 
Yep I hated my 09 built Teryx for this very reason, PITA multi hour job to change the belt, partially why I ended up in a yxz.
Wait till you have to change the coupler on the YXZ.

and when you do change the final drive shaft and the rear plate where the coupler fits, because if you don't it's going to be a 1,2,3 type of failure

 
I think it is a good move if polaris calls it something other than a UTV or SxS. The 1000cc limit has made the category a great entry into offroad for millions of people. As we see every weekend, many drivers can't even handle what a 1000cc UTV puts out.  Like them or hate them, SxS have done a lot of good (not all good) for the industry. A 2.0L motor is going to have more area under the torque curve than a 925cc turbo......
I feel the same way.

 
I think it is a good move if polaris calls it something other than a UTV or SxS. The 1000cc limit has made the category a great entry into offroad for millions of people. As we see every weekend, many drivers can't even handle what a 1000cc UTV puts out.  Like them or hate them, SxS have done a lot of good (not all good) for the industry. A 2.0L motor is going to have more area under the torque curve than a 925cc turbo......
Some people could not handle the 25hp of the Rhino.  LOL!!

I am curious to see the torque curve on the 2.0L motor.  

 
Some people could not handle the 25hp of the Rhino.  LOL!!

I am curious to see the torque curve on the 2.0L motor.  
Word.. totally curious to see how the higher displacement competes.. after I break in my 1110cc motor, gonna try some hill climb and flat drag races vs. the 2 I have 925cc Turbo and 1110cc NA. In theory, the 1110cc should bust out and take the Turbo, but that lil' thing does spool up quick, especially in sand/dirt where the wheels are spinning so I expect the old one will have a few car lengths but will get tossed by the Turbo pretty quick after the spool.

Still think I'm going to off the 1110cc and get an additional Turbo S 2 seat Velocity. I want to have 2 SXSs no matter what.

Also, back to the belt thing, I also was a MASH THE GAS to the floor guy, but now I try to go 3/4 (at most) and just get the speed up in it and use momentum and the down hills to get speed for the next hill to climb.

I don't miss my 'belt nightmare' seasons anymore.

abc

 
Wait till you have to change the coupler on the YXZ.

and when you do change the final drive shaft and the rear plate where the coupler fits, because if you don't it's going to be a 1,2,3 type of failure
I replaced that pretty much right out of the box along with the diff barring carrier, hopefully I will keep enjoying trouble free duning 🤙

 
My guess is that Polaris' bean counters will do a lot of parts bin robbing when they build the Pro R.  If you look at the slingshot, it got a new 2.0L motor last year and it was offered in 180hp/120 120 ft pounds and 203hp/144 ft pounds torque.  They say it goes from idle to 8200 rpm redline in .8 seconds (that's a weird stat).  It is also offered in a 5 speed manual and a 5 speed AutoDrive with paddle shifters.  My guess is we won't get the 5 speed manual, because they fear too many warranty claims on the clutch, etc.  I would be happy with the AutoDrive over a belt.

 
My guess is that Polaris' bean counters will do a lot of parts bin robbing when they build the Pro R.  If you look at the slingshot, it got a new 2.0L motor last year and it was offered in 180hp/120 120 ft pounds and 203hp/144 ft pounds torque.  They say it goes from idle to 8200 rpm redline in .8 seconds (that's a weird stat).  It is also offered in a 5 speed manual and a 5 speed AutoDrive with paddle shifters.  My guess is we won't get the 5 speed manual, because they fear too many warranty claims on the clutch, etc.  I would be happy with the AutoDrive over a belt.
I don't think we will see a paddle shift model for a while.     The 2.0L motor with a turbo would be fun.  Should be able to make some good hp with a turbo. 

 
Another day, another stop ride/stop sell. I've often wondered how much testing they do before they sell these things. Apparently not enough to catch these problems. How the hell do you overload a steering wheel?

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Another day, another stop ride/stop sell. I've often wondered how much testing they do before they sell these things. Apparently not enough to catch these problems. How the hell do you overload a steering wheel?

According to Polaris some models were delivered with undue stress placed on the steering wheels during shipping and in the way they were secured?  As was stated in the memo you posted.  How the hell they figured that out is beyond me, but its polaris so go figure. And what f-n monkey ties a unit down by its steering wheel? 

I had a friend buy one today from Mt Motorsports that the vin was clear to purchase, but the one she tried to buy in Utah yesterday the vin wasn't clear yet.  

 
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