Country Coach intrigue 32 ft (((((Solar install)))))

Lithium batteries in bulk charging state will accept large amounts of charging current. Alternators are stupid and will provide their max output until they overheat as most are not 100% duty cycle rated. There are all sorts of aftermarket regulators and battery charge controllers available that will cycle the alternator X minutes on and X minutes off, effectively producing a 50% duty cycle (sort of). To me, that is still putting a lot of stress on the alternator. The DC to DC charger is the best solution as it solves two issues with charging a lithium battery. First, it limits the load placed on your alternator and secondly, it provides the correct charging curve for a lithium battery. For your application, I would think the DC to DC would be ideal as you will be discharging your battery significantly overnight so you will be recharging in the bulk high amperage state often. Placing the DC to DC between your battery and alternator will definitely save your alternator. Only downside is recharging time will be increased due to the lower charging current. Really no need for the DC to DC charger or alternator charging of my coach batteries in my Moho as the solar, genset ,shore power and battery bank capacity (920AH) are more than enough.
Sandkist has some valid points.
On mine, I kept the alternator charging the start batteries only and solar/gen set/shore power charges the house batteries along with a trickle charger from the house batteries to the start batteries (to insure my start batteries are full when I boondock for extended periods). My house batteries are lithium and start batteries are wet cell. This solves most problems (disconnected the oil trigger switch on the relay that was mentioned to separate the systems but it still leaves the jumper switch in the coach available to use if start batteries die). The other issue that it solved was potential alternator damage from abrupt charging cut-off on lithium system (different charging curved between lead acid and lithium). My system has been operating for about 3 years now and doesn't seem to have any issues. House batteries charge from solar while i am driving anyway. No DC to DC charger in my system.
 
Lithium batteries in bulk charging state will accept large amounts of charging current. Alternators are stupid and will provide their max output until they overheat as most are not 100% duty cycle rated. There are all sorts of aftermarket regulators and battery charge controllers available that will cycle the alternator X minutes on and X minutes off, effectively producing a 50% duty cycle (sort of). To me, that is still putting a lot of stress on the alternator. The DC to DC charger is the best solution as it solves two issues with charging a lithium battery. First, it limits the load placed on your alternator and secondly, it provides the correct charging curve for a lithium battery. For your application, I would think the DC to DC would be ideal as you will be discharging your battery significantly overnight so you will be recharging in the bulk high amperage state often. Placing the DC to DC between your battery and alternator will definitely save your alternator. Only downside is recharging time will be increased due to the lower charging current. Really no need for the DC to DC charger or alternator charging of my coach batteries in my Moho as the solar, genset ,shore power and battery bank capacity (920AH) are more than enough.
Ah word. @onanysunday was talking about DC to DC chargers, which you said you didn't want to run because of alternator issues. Making sure there wasn't some aspect I missed. Friend of mine went with the self-contained "alternator charger" for his, but I really don't see much difference between that and the DC to DC charger other it costing 2x as much and you have to terminate it yourself.

Thanks!
 
Ah word. @onanysunday was talking about DC to DC chargers, which you said you didn't want to run because of alternator issues. Making sure there wasn't some aspect I missed. Friend of mine went with the self-contained "alternator charger" for his, but I really don't see much difference between that and the DC to DC charger other it costing 2x as much and you have to terminate it yourself.

Thanks!
I was quickly running out of physical space for components. I was planning on using a DC to DC charger to protect my alternator but it would not play well with my battery control center. In the end it really wasn’t necessary for my application so why make it more complex than need be.LOL
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Well I've gone back to maybe trying to fit all of this into the compartment where the batteries were. Don't want to lose the storage inside and all the runs are shorter and much easier to install everything here. So I have two choices. Right now this battery compartment has expanded metal underneath and part of it to let a whole bunch of air and sand and crap get in here. I can either completely seal the cabinet. Or I can make a box that goes over the inverter. Either way I was thinking about putting a k&N filter and outerwear over a hole to let the inverter get fresh air and of course probably put a fan blowing on it inside as well. Not sure which way to go here.
 

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Still have the issue of flight off gassing from the 8D AGM starting battery. Everything I have read the inverter and all the other components should be kept away from even an AGM battery. So I think my only option here would be to make a box to go around the inverter and then vent it. In the above section is where the links distributor, serbo, and controller would go. That area is currently vented but I think it needs to be sealed. Just because it is vented right where the engine is behind it and a lot of heat.
 
Thinking this might work better. Go up with my frame. Have my two lipos vertical. Then on the right side cut out that section of the upper shelf area, Mount all my Victron in that right side area and then make a box that seals it all in with my filter for venting. I think I'm liking this a little better.
 

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