Country Coach intrigue 32 ft (((((Solar install)))))

So I had already bought one each of a positive and negative heavy duty busbars. $38 for both from Sun Fun kits. Trying to wrap my head around why I would need the Lynx Distributor and spend another $200. It does the same thing except it has fuses and monitors them. I already have a 400 amp fuse coming. Then I will need whatever other fuses for the system. I wont need the BMS or Shunt for this system.
 
This guy has a whole series of videos on solar. Lots of good tech info. Wish I would have found these early on.
 
onanysunday said:
So I had already bought one each of a positive and negative heavy duty busbars. $38 for both from Sun Fun kits. Trying to wrap my head around why I would need the Lynx Distributor and spend another $200. It does the same thing except it has fuses and monitors them. I already have a 400 amp fuse coming. Then I will need whatever other fuses for the system. I wont need the BMS or Shunt for this system.
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What is the amperage rating of your bus bar? Everything that attaches to your positive bus bar should have a fuse (for the most part)so you will need fuse holders for each unless they are part of the bus bar. Jumper cable from the bus bar to the fuse holders will be needed as well. I went with the distributor due to space limitations and the cost of bus bars, cables and fuse holders was close to the Lynx. I paid around $150 for my Lynx. Have you figured out what you will do on the 120 volt AC side of the inverter for overcurrent/short circuit protection? I think you mentioned that your battery cables from the batteries to the inverter are relatively long. Don’t rely on the BMS to protect the cables. You should fuse thise as close to the batteries as possible. I am sure you have already thought about all this but thought I would mention these thing just in case something was overlooked.
 
Sandkist said:
What is the amperage rating of your bus bar? Everything that attaches to your positive bus bar should have a fuse (for the most part)so you will need fuse holders for each unless they are part of the bus bar. Jumper cable from the bus bar to the fuse holders will be needed as well. I went with the distributor due to space limitations and the cost of bus bars, cables and fuse holders was close to the Lynx. I paid around $150 for my Lynx. Have you figured out what you will do on the 120 volt AC side of the inverter for overcurrent/short circuit protection? I think you mentioned that your battery cables from the batteries to the inverter are relatively long. Don’t rely on the BMS to protect the cables. You should fuse thise as close to the batteries as possible. I am sure you have already thought about all this but thought I would mention these thing just in case something was overlooked.
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Yeah I will probably just order a linx this next week. At this point in my life easier is good to get things done. For sure want to fuse everything as much as possible for protection. So yes still researching that. First steps I need to get the panels mounted, get all of the victron components mounted, get the batteries mounted. On vacation this next week but the week after I can start getting all that done and then I have the front passenger windshield getting yanked out of the coach so I can switch out the refrigerators and get that washer dryer unit out of there. That GE fridge weighs 137 lb so the forklift with long forks will certainly come in handy for that.
 
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Interesting thread here discussing dc to dc converters. It is mentioned that motorhomes have a split charge relay which allows the alternator to charge the starting battery first and then the house batteries. If so and without a dc to dc converter that creates a problem. Sounds possibly as easy as removing that fuse in the system. But not sure how to figure that out. It would disable the jumper switch between the batteries which I would be ok with. Just use some jumper cables if the starting battery fails. Also the Victron does have a low amp charging circuit from the inverter to charge the starting battery. But I did read that is not compatible with different types of batteries lithium and lead acid.
 
Sandkist said:
Staubli connectors are the best and you should not mix brands. Equally important is to use the proper crimping tool. There was/is a video online used to certify installers using Staubli connectors. You can also buy PV cable with connectors already installed. PV cable comes in different strand counts and the fine strand (150) is the way to go IMO.
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So is that crimp on the Staubli connector special? I am seeing the pliers online no problem but I have all kinds of pliers in the toolbox with that type of crimp connector. Or at least looks similar. Photo shown as an example of Deutsch style connectors we have used for years in the shop.
 

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Well this appears to be it. I just have to figure out how to rewire it to disable it.
 

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So the 15 psi oil pressure sender switch has a 16 gauge wire which energizes that 200 amp solenoid. That allows the house batteries to be tied into the alternator charge circuit. Is it as easy as disconnecting that blue wire?
 

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I can say that on my coach, the battery control center was so intertwined with everything that I ended up disconnecting the wires to the relay coil that connects the chassis and coach batteries together for charging. I crimped terminals on each wire so if I ever need to jump start from the coach batteries I can just reconnect the coil wire quickly.
 
onanysunday said:
So is that crimp on the Staubli connector special? I am seeing the pliers online no problem but I have all kinds of pliers in the toolbox with that type of crimp connector. Or at least looks similar. Photo shown as an example of Deutsch style connectors we have used for years in the shop.
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Staubli states to use a specified crimping tool with their connectors is all.
 
Sandkist said:
Same here as I didn’t want to cook my alternator. Your multi plus does have a 4 amp trickle charger for the starter battery. Single positive wire from the charger to a positive post at the starter battery. Fuse this wire at the battery.
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Worried about overloading it? Going to get a DC to DC for the self-contained battery box I bring in the Jeep for longer trips and curious on your thoughts there.
 
So the GE fridge I am buying is rated at 15 amps or 1800 watts. I have 630 amp hours of battery Bank between the two batteries. So I'm figuring 42 hours to run the fridge without any solar power or generator. I wonder what a realistic number is because that fridge is not going to be running all of the time. Plus depending on temperature on how much it draws.
 
 
 
I bought an insignia 10.1 cubic foot fridge from Best buy, opened it, ended up returning it. That thing draws hardly anything. Literally a couple of amps. Decided to order the GE 11.6 which I am picking up on monday. Everything online says it pulls 15 amps and 1800 watts. Sat on hold with GE chat today and they could not answer what the real draw is. He said it is on the placard inside the door. So I guess I will pick it up and take a look. Bought a kil a wat device to measure the draw. I will plug it in and see what that is just for grins.
 
So is it worth 1.5 cubic foot less refrigerator space to have something that draws a whole bunch less?
 
Rockwood said:
Worried about overloading it? Going to get a DC to DC for the self-contained battery box I bring in the Jeep for longer trips and curious on your thoughts there.
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Lithium batteries in bulk charging state will accept large amounts of charging current. Alternators are stupid and will provide their max output until they overheat as most are not 100% duty cycle rated. There are all sorts of aftermarket regulators and battery charge controllers available that will cycle the alternator X minutes on and X minutes off, effectively producing a 50% duty cycle (sort of). To me, that is still putting a lot of stress on the alternator. The DC to DC charger is the best solution as it solves two issues with charging a lithium battery. First, it limits the load placed on your alternator and secondly, it provides the correct charging curve for a lithium battery. For your application, I would think the DC to DC would be ideal as you will be discharging your battery significantly overnight so you will be recharging in the bulk high amperage state often. Placing the DC to DC between your battery and alternator will definitely save your alternator. Only downside is recharging time will be increased due to the lower charging current. Really no need for the DC to DC charger or alternator charging of my coach batteries in my Moho as the solar, genset ,shore power and battery bank capacity (920AH) are more than enough.
 
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