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I have a Honda j30a1 and planning on putting in a stereo system with a max wattage of 1320 and amp in the 100 range. 
 

Quick search states that OEM alternator outputs like 80 amps. My stereo would draw approx 100 amps plus my LED bar, LED chase light and 4 cube LED lights. 
 

What alternator can I buy as a replacement and do I need a different size of belt?

Thanks!

 
Sinverguenza said:
I have a Honda j30a1 and planning on putting in a stereo system with a max wattage of 1320 and amp in the 100 range. 
 

Quick search states that OEM alternator outputs like 80 amps. My stereo would draw approx 100 amps plus my LED bar, LED chase light and 4 cube LED lights. 
 

What alternator can I buy as a replacement and do I need a different size of belt?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Your stereo won't draw 100 amps 100% of the time.

However, the Odyssey one is rated higher. 130a.  https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/p/duralast-alternator-12307/784181_0_0

 
I have the Odyssey alternator in my car. With my car idling, Fans/whips/Lights/dash lights/iPad/Intercom and Radio on, if I key up the radio to talk car to car, the engine stumbles and almost dies. 

I have a 250amp high output alternator on order. I plan to put a stereo in the car and if I already have electrical shortages, I dont want to play around. 

 
Funco4JM said:
I have the Odyssey alternator in my car. With my car idling, Fans/whips/Lights/dash lights/iPad/Intercom and Radio on, if I key up the radio to talk car to car, the engine stumbles and almost dies. 

I have a 250amp high output alternator on order. I plan to put a stereo in the car and if I already have electrical shortages, I dont want to play around. 
Click to expand...
That probably has more to do with the interference the radio is causing than volt drop.  There was a LONG thread about that on the old board about engines dying when the mic was keyed.

 
Went to G last week for a few days to do a shake down run with the car. Made a bunch of changes (added radios and misc stuff like that) and had a rough go. 

The car overheated bad, gauge was pegged at 250+. Which I attributed to running hard in 2nd and not shifting to 3rd sooner. Last night I had a some time to pressure test the radiator (leak down test will be done tomorrow), found 2 leaks, one in the rubber hose connecting the water manifold to the radiator piping and the other... appears to be a small crack in the radiator. Im hoping this is it, but I may need to pull the heads if the leak down doesnt go well. 

My question is... I have a stamped J35A, but I dont know what version. Is there a way to tell without tearing into the bottom end?

 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
That probably has more to do with the interference the radio is causing than volt drop.  There was a LONG thread about that on the old board about engines dying when the mic was keyed.
Click to expand...
The radio can interfere with the computer? Never even thought that was possible. I ran separate power and ground lines for the intercom/radio. Plus the radio is in the dash and the ECU is in the back of the car. 

 
Funco4JM said:
The radio can interfere with the computer? Never even thought that was possible. I ran separate power and ground lines for the intercom/radio. Plus the radio is in the dash and the ECU is in the back of the car. 
Click to expand...
Ohh... My antenna is literally 12" above my Motec ECU. You think that could be the issue?

 
Funco4JM said:
Went to G last week for a few days to do a shake down run with the car. Made a bunch of changes (added radios and misc stuff like that) and had a rough go. 

The car overheated bad, gauge was pegged at 250+. Which I attributed to running hard in 2nd and not shifting to 3rd sooner. Last night I had a some time to pressure test the radiator (leak down test will be done tomorrow), found 2 leaks, one in the rubber hose connecting the water manifold to the radiator piping and the other... appears to be a small crack in the radiator. Im hoping this is it, but I may need to pull the heads if the leak down doesnt go well. 

My question is... I have a stamped J35A, but I dont know what version. Is there a way to tell without tearing into the bottom end?
Click to expand...
The bottom end may not really tell you anything.  The ASSuming the intake is the one that came with the engine, that's the easiest way to tell.  Looking at the rocker/VTEC assembly can tell you if it has A1 or A3/4 heads...also assuming someone didn't start swapping parts around..

 
Funco4JM said:
Ohh... My antenna is literally 12" above my Motec ECU. You think that could be the issue?
Click to expand...
Could be.  @CHIZZLE was the one who was battling the issue, and had the thread.    Maybe he can chime in about it.  IIRC, others stated they had similar problems.

 
Funco4JM said:
Went to G last week for a few days to do a shake down run with the car. Made a bunch of changes (added radios and misc stuff like that) and had a rough go. 

The car overheated bad, gauge was pegged at 250+. Which I attributed to running hard in 2nd and not shifting to 3rd sooner. Last night I had a some time to pressure test the radiator (leak down test will be done tomorrow), found 2 leaks, one in the rubber hose connecting the water manifold to the radiator piping and the other... appears to be a small crack in the radiator. Im hoping this is it, but I may need to pull the heads if the leak down doesnt go well. 

My question is... I have a stamped J35A, but I dont know what version. Is there a way to tell without tearing into the bottom end?
Click to expand...
I'm not positive but I was told these are how JDM motors are stamped. 

 
Funco4JM said:
Went to G last week for a few days to do a shake down run with the car. Made a bunch of changes (added radios and misc stuff like that) and had a rough go. 

The car overheated bad, gauge was pegged at 250+. Which I attributed to running hard in 2nd and not shifting to 3rd sooner. Last night I had a some time to pressure test the radiator (leak down test will be done tomorrow), found 2 leaks, one in the rubber hose connecting the water manifold to the radiator piping and the other... appears to be a small crack in the radiator. Im hoping this is it, but I may need to pull the heads if the leak down doesnt go well. 

My question is... I have a stamped J35A, but I dont know what version. Is there a way to tell without tearing into the bottom end?
Click to expand...
I battled over heating issues with mine a few years ago.  Changing out the water sensor to the 175 degree one that was posted in this thread really helped.  Beforehand my fans weren't coming on until 205, but by the time they could start cooling the car down, the temp was at 220, then it would only cool to 205, and this cycle would continue and never cool the car down.  What I did to test it was add the fans to a switch and I would turn them on at 175, car never got over 200 again.  I also replace my fans because the blades were worn down from sand.

Also, since it got that hot, check your plastic timing belt covers, mine melted and I had to replace them.

 
I'm looking into using a j35 for my baja bug build so I have lots of questions.  From the quick research I've done so far it looks like most people are using j35a4's.  I'm assuming that's because it is still cable throttle.  They still seem fairly plentiful.   Are newer j35's with flyby wire throttles too hard to deal with?  Are good wiring diagrams easy to come by?

I've done a few engine swaps.  My LS based swap was fairly easy with the amount of info out there on the net.  It was the most extensive I've done with stripping down a wiring harness.  My buddy did a quick ecm tune and it was good to go.

Also what's the best way to source an engine, pick and pull yards?  For my Ls I called around and was able to get a package deal with everything from a junkyard. 

 
The J35A4 is the most common swap and the easiest. Not sure if anyone has the capabilities to do the stand alone wiring harness for the throttle by wire setups.

Sourcing the motor can be tricky as there are several avenues. I know many people that bought from a wrecking to have it throw a rod first pull or like mine, ate a rod bearing in 3 trips.

Its really a gamble, but you can find many yards that have them already pulled and ready to go. Some even offer a warranty on it for 90 days as well. You will need the engine, harness, computer and adapter plate. 

 
deyzin said:
I'm looking into using a j35 for my baja bug build so I have lots of questions.  From the quick research I've done so far it looks like most people are using j35a4's.  I'm assuming that's because it is still cable throttle.  They still seem fairly plentiful.   Are newer j35's with flyby wire throttles too hard to deal with?  Are good wiring diagrams easy to come by?

I've done a few engine swaps.  My LS based swap was fairly easy with the amount of info out there on the net.  It was the most extensive I've done with stripping down a wiring harness.  My buddy did a quick ecm tune and it was good to go.

Also what's the best way to source an engine, pick and pull yards?  For my Ls I called around and was able to get a package deal with everything from a junkyard. 
Click to expand...
Has to be a stand alone ECU.  Some are capable of running a drive by wire t-body, some not.  There is an adapter for the later engines to use the early t-body, but still must run a stand alone ECU.

 
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