The official Honda Thread

[ChasingSand]

EastMT was correct about the fan signal. I hooked up a test light to the battery positive terminal and the fan wire. Sure enough the light came on at about 204 degrees when the temperature sensor sent the ground signal. So then I rewired the fan relay to have the ground connected to that wire and started it up again. I have been letting it just idle on it's own without touching the pedal until it gets up to temperature - it is idling at around 1500, no surge. Fans pop on at about 204 degrees. So then I blip the throttle to 3k and the surge starts again. Good to get the fan start up worked out though. I will look for a new sensor that has the fan come on at a little earlier.

The fuel pressure regulator looks like a stock part to me, but it has been relocated from the fuel rail to a block on a bracket (previous owner). The blue fitting is the fuel in line and I don't know what the plastic part is beyond that. The fuel return line seemed small to me, so when I plumbed it back to my tank, I increased the sized of the tube I added. That is something different on the engine from when I bought.... I don't know if that makes a difference on how the fuel pressure regulator performs ??

The other thing that is different that you guys have been pointing me to is the fuel pressure. I'd like to switch fuel pump out for one that does not push as much pressure. Can someone recommend one? J35A4, NA. Thank you all.

View attachment 128040

Looks like an OEM unit which should be fine using a stock pump. I would say maybe try a new aftermarket one from a reputable seller.

Maybe pick up a use OEM one from a wrecking yard tomorrow to see if it changes anything.

 

[MPC]

Looks like an OEM unit which should be fine using a stock pump. I would say maybe try a new aftermarket one from a reputable seller.

Maybe pick up a use OEM one from a wrecking yard tomorrow to see if it changes anything.

10-4. I think the fuel pressure regulators are about $20 at my local yard, so might as well do that and rule it out. If there are recommendations for an aftermarket FPR, I'm all ears.

I got to thinking maybe that barb fitting is restricting the return flow. Notice the tiny orifice of the return port, so I don't think that's it. I just now replaced that return line with one continuous smaller hose (same size that was originally on there). No change. But it one more possibility off the list haha.

 

[EastMT]

I'd like to switch fuel pump out for one that does not push as much pressure. Can someone recommend one

I use a Walbro GSL392BX from Summit. No surging. Buyer beware of chi com knock off parts from not so reputable sellers.

 

[MPC]

I use a Walbro GSL392BX from Summit. No surging. Buyer beware of chi com knock off parts from not so reputable sellers.

Interesting. That one is rated at 87 psi, 255 LPH; pretty much what I have now. Mine is a Walbro GSL392, 255 LPH.
I think my next task will be to leave the stock fuel pressure regulator (replace with junkyard oem) and add in line right after the fuel pump an adjustable regulator like this: Evil Energy Fuel Pressure Regulator and dial it down to various psi and see what happens.

 

[ChasingSand]

Where are you seeing the 80psi of fuel pressure? How are you testing it?

 

[MPC]

Where are you seeing the 80psi of fuel pressure? How are you testing it?

I have an inline gauge right after the fuel pump. That jives with the specs on the pump.
Picture taken with pump switched on and engine running at idle (1500+/-).

 

[ChasingSand]

So that is not the pressure your injectors are seeing. You would want to check the pressure after the regulator.

 

[EastMT]

Interesting. That one is rated at 87 psi, 255 LPH; pretty much what I have now. Mine is a Walbro GSL392, 255 LPH.
I think my next task will be to leave the stock fuel pressure regulator (replace with junkyard oem) and add in line right after the fuel pump an adjustable regulator like this: Evil Energy Fuel Pressure Regulator and dial it down to various psi and see what happens.

The stock fuel pressure regulator regulated the pressure on my stock J35A4. That was verified by a pressure gauge between the regulator and the engine.

 

[Rockwood]

So that is not the pressure your injectors are seeing. You would want to check the pressure after the regulator.

After the regulator isn't correct: this is just the return fuel and any pressure there would just be from fuel being restricted from going back into the tank.


80psi is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much fuel. That being said, right off the pump isn't the best spot for the gauge. Should be in/around the fuel rail.


Surging idle on a Honda is usually vacuum leaks. If you have access to a smoke tester, that's the easiest solution. Next would be making a pressure tester:

6-7 psi should be plenty to start hearing a hiss from wherever it's leaking.

 

[MPC]

Point noted regarding the fuel pressure being high and the gauge location. I have an aftermarket pressure regulator on order.

While I'm waiting for that to arrive I'll work on doing a smoke test for a vacuum leak. I thought I had that ruled out because now I can cover the throttle with my hand and the engine immediately dies, but I will still smoke test it. I agree, it sure acts like a vacuum leak, but I have yet to find one.

Longer term, I'm wondering if regulating the pressure down will adversely affect my current fuel pump. I'll happily swap it out to gain reliability, but I'm not sure what the ideal pump would be. If I go down to 100LPH I'm finding stuff like this one:

which isn't going to cut it. I see some Walbro pumps that put out less, so maybe the GSL393, 155LPH would be better fit? I have the GSL392 now.

It feels like I'm just throwing parts at it, but the season is here and I am missing out on trips.

 

[nzulmer]

Had a tough time finding anything on this specific topic. First time owning a honda v6 and I am doing an oil change. I have a j32a1 and its supposed to take 4.6qts. I put that exact amount in and its reading right at the low line on the dip stick with the front suspension at normal ride height. When I have the front suspension at full droop, its reading right in the center of the high and low lines on the dip stick. Anyone have this same deal going on? Anyone see an issue with running it this way? My gut says its fine and to not put more oil in it.

 

[ChasingSand]

Had a tough time finding anything on this specific topic. First time owning a honda v6 and I am doing an oil change. I have a j32a1 and its supposed to take 4.6qts. I put that exact amount in and its reading right at the low line on the dip stick with the front suspension at normal ride height. When I have the front suspension at full droop, its reading right in the center of the high and low lines on the dip stick. Anyone have this same deal going on? Anyone see an issue with running it this way? My gut says its fine and to not put more oil in it.

To get the most accurate results I put a small 10-12 inch level on the top of the intake plenum to ensure the motor is completely level. Once you establish the motor has the correct amount, you can then put the car back at ride height and make a mark on the dipstick to show the correct level.

 

[nzulmer]

To get the most accurate results I put a small 10-12 inch level on the top of the intake plenum to ensure the motor is completely level. Once you establish the motor has the correct amount, you can then put the car back at ride height and make a mark on the dipstick to show the correct level.

Ok, make sense. I got the car jacked up enough to get the front of the car high enough were the motor is pretty much level with a torpedo level. Checked the dip stick and it a little over the high line on the dip stick. Do you think I am still in the safe zone on my oil level?

 

[ChasingSand]

Ok, make sense. I got the car jacked up enough to get the front of the car high enough were the motor is pretty much level with a torpedo level. Checked the dip stick and it a little over the high line on the dip stick. Do you think I am still in the safe zone on my oil level?

I would drain a little out at a time till you are right under the high line.

 

[77charger]

fuel pump i run an airtex2000 simple pump can be had at local parts stores.I had an aem that failed 68 miles from where we started our ride guy in group had a spare but my braided line wouldnt work.The airtex uses quick connect ends where you can use efi hose directly on them or fittings that go to barb,or what i got recently quick connect to male an fittings.Now i can easily swap out a pump in 5 minutes and a new one is like 60 bucks.

Surge idle is it often ?does it settle down to smooth uner 1000 rpm? Maybe worth cleaning the idle air control valve.A spec of sand can cause it to stay high then come down and go up once you touch the throttle taking a while to come down again.

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

Had a tough time finding anything on this specific topic. First time owning a honda v6 and I am doing an oil change. I have a j32a1 and its supposed to take 4.6qts. I put that exact amount in and its reading right at the low line on the dip stick with the front suspension at normal ride height. When I have the front suspension at full droop, its reading right in the center of the high and low lines on the dip stick. Anyone have this same deal going on? Anyone see an issue with running it this way? My gut says its fine and to not put more oil in it.

ASSuming this is a rear engine application with the pulley side of the engine higher than the bellhousing side..?..

The pump pick up and the the dipstick are both on the uphill side of the engine now. I'd fill it to "full" on the stick. You might get a bit of aeration from windage, but that beats starving it of oil. And it's probably not any more that you would get from the constant change in Gs trying to push the oil passed the tray anyway.

 

[nzulmer]

ASSuming this is a rear engine application with the pulley side of the engine higher than the bellhousing side..?..

The pump pick up and the the dipstick are both on the uphill side of the engine now. I'd fill it to "full" on the stick. You might get a bit of aeration from windage, but that beats starving it of oil. And it's probably not any more that you would get from the constant change in Gs trying to push the oil passed the tray anyway.

You are correct, rear engine car. Appreciate the explanation, makes total sense. I believe that is how it was before I did the oil change, but I can't recall. Just concerned if I put a little too much oil in what issues I would cause. I think I am in the clear then. I am right between the low and high lines when at ride height. Might put a tad bit more in based on what you explained.

 

[Ganzo]

Ok maybe this has gotten covered before but it wont hurt to repost. I have an extra intake ans valve covers for my j35 which im going to paint but i have some questions. First do i need these ports open or can i weld them or seal them shut? Also why do people say to remove the baffles inside valve covers?

 

[ChasingSand]

I removed the baffles for boost as they do not vent as needed for turbo applications. Should be fine in stock form. I would keep the ports open as one is for your pcv and just cap the other so you have it if needed in the future.

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

People will typically remove the baffles if they are going to powder coat them. Media from the blasting will get trapped in them.