The official Honda Thread

Greengo said:
Prepping the new car with 3.5 honda turbo. Wondering what everyone is running for plugs and gap, low boost 50/50 fuel. Currently has NGK BKR7EIX (2667)

Didnt check gap.

Thanks fellas
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Running NGK 4644 with a .022 GAP
 
Years ago I weighed one with everything from the cast iron manifolds to the adapter and clutch. It was 365.
 
Is oil leakage and sand build up in these areas indicative of a rear main seal going out? If not what should I be checking?IMG_2037.jpegIMG_2038.jpeg
 
For anyone who tracks this thread, and has my cell number it will be changing by 10-12-24.

If it's my sig after that, it's current.
 
Did you plug the hole behind the flywheel which goes into the cavity by the injectors (towards the top of the flywheel)? If you don't plug that sand will get to the clutch and will also takeout your throw out bearing and your rear main seal.
 
Cleaning things up on the new car and was wondering where all the turbo guys are getting their boost reference from? Putting boost controller in and looking for best possible source. Barrowed a couple of Richards pics for reference. Pic one, what is the port that is capped, on throttle body? Pic 2 the large, capped port that is on intake, to the right of the sensor, would this be a good source? Any pics would be great, thanks guys!
 

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Greengo said:
Cleaning things up on the new car and was wondering where all the turbo guys are getting their boost reference from? Putting boost controller in and looking for best possible source. Barrowed a couple of Richards pics for reference. Pic one, what is the port that is capped, on throttle body? Pic 2 the large, capped port that is on intake, to the right of the sensor, would this be a good source? Any pics would be great, thanks guys!
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I drilled and tapped the PCV port on the plenum for an AN fitting and that goes to my wastegate.
 
Greengo said:
Thanks!! Did you bypass the PCV?
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I did. I removed the internal baffles on the valve covers and welded on a -10 a fitting on each of them. I then ran lines to a catch can.

Booster motors need the extra ventilation at the valve covers. I didn’t remove the internal baffles originally and ended up making the rear main seal leak.
 
ChasingSand said:
I did. I removed the internal baffles on the valve covers and welded on a -10 a fitting on each of them. I then ran lines to a catch can.

Booster motors need the extra ventilation at the valve covers. I didn’t remove the internal baffles originally and ended up making the rear main seal leak.
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Great info, thank you!
 
Well my J35A4 engine swap has hit a bit of a dead end. I transferred the (running) engine, ECU, and harness from another buggy into mine and I messed something up along the way somehow. Everything is hooked up as it was as far as I can tell, but it won't fire. Starter cranks because I have it on the same momentary switch I used for the old engine. It's getting fuel because I had a leak at one of the injectors that I fixed and the return line is dumping fuel back into the tank.

Can anyone point me to an ECU wiring diagram, so I can maybe check for various voltages in and out of the ECU? I haven't found a good diagram yet. Not sure what else to check. It seems it must be something simple I'm overlooking, but I don't know much about modern fuel injected engines.
 
Don't know if this has been posted in here but this guy make some nice parts for the Honda. I like his water manifold delete bypass kits. Cleans it up nice.
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MPC said:
Well my J35A4 engine swap has hit a bit of a dead end. I transferred the (running) engine, ECU, and harness from another buggy into mine and I messed something up along the way somehow. Everything is hooked up as it was as far as I can tell, but it won't fire. Starter cranks because I have it on the same momentary switch I used for the old engine. It's getting fuel because I had a leak at one of the injectors that I fixed and the return line is dumping fuel back into the tank.

Can anyone point me to an ECU wiring diagram, so I can maybe check for various voltages in and out of the ECU? I haven't found a good diagram yet. Not sure what else to check. It seems it must be something simple I'm overlooking, but I don't know much about modern fuel injected engines.
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Make sure all your grounds are connected and also try to reseat all the electrical connectors.
 
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ChasingSand said:
Make sure all your grounds are connected and also try to reseat all the electrical connectors.
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I found a wire I had taken out of the system because it was part of a funky relay routing the previous owner had.
Turns out I needed that wire hooked up, ha ha.
Got it to fire! Now to button up everything and take it out for a shake down run.
The MAP sensor wires look like they are soldered to the sensor with some hot glue for good measure. I'm going to replace that with a proper connector.
I had to peel the "Powered by Ecotec" stickers off the side panels, so I added some Honda signage for a little more flair.
 

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MPC said:
I found a wire I had taken out of the system because it was part of a funky relay routing the previous owner had.
Turns out I needed that wire hooked up, ha ha.
Got it to fire! Now to button up everything and take it out for a shake down run.
The MAP sensor wires look like they are soldered to the sensor with some hot glue for good measure. I'm going to replace that with a proper connector.
I had to peel the "Powered by Ecotec" stickers off the side panels, so I added some Honda signage for a little more flair.
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Glad you got it figured out and it was a simple fix! Reason I asked about making sure the connectors are plugged is one time I was stuck in limp mode and would not rev over 3k. Pulled the whole spool valve apart and could not figure out why. Turns out the connector was not all the way plugged in for the VTEC solenoid.
 
Yep. I noticed that on some of the connectors you really need to tug on them to make sure the clip is engaged, especially the fuel injector wires.
 
Well that start up joy was short lived. When I fired it the other day I did not let it run but for a few seconds and then shut it off. Today I went to start it and let it warm up. The idle is revving/jumping between 1000 and 200 rpm. It could be a couple of things:

Vacuum leak? I pulled intake pipe and filter and covered the throttle body with my hand while it was running. The idle got very low, but it never completely died. This leads me to think there is an air leak somewhere, but I have not been able to find it. All the hoses/ports that I can see are plugged or connected with new vacuum hose.

Idle Control Valve? possibly a bad ICV, but I doubt it since it was running fine before I pulled the engine from the donor buggy. Would I have to do an idle relearn due to an engine swap? I can't really do the relearn procedure I found online because involves turn AC on, etc.

Any ideas? Thanks.
 
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