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What is the sensor that goes right there where I circled? Is it needed? I had my car on and disconnected the sensor that goes there and nothing changed when its disconnected
 

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Because i was fitting my new airfilter setup and noticed it wasnt even plugged in all the way and i disconnected and the car kept running normal. I think i may have a bad sensor because it stumbles sometimes and struggle to maintain idle
 
Finally some good news for my Honda idle issues! I have been through the wringer on this but it's idling good and running good now. I had a successful shake down run at Ocotillo Wells over New Years. It runs like a champ and I'm very pleased with the power as an upgrade from the 2.2 Ecotec I had in it.

The long and winding road:
~ I smoke tested and found no leaks.
~ Replaced the stock fuel pressure regulator with new; no change.
~ Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro GSL 393; no change.
~ Reset the throttle position sensor by using the min. and max. voltage readings; no change.
~ Pulled the intake off again, put on new gaskets with copper seal spray; no change.
~ Smoke tested again; no leaks.
~ I added a fuel pressure gauge after the fuel pressure regulator after the FPR to see what pressure the fuel injectors were getting; still around 70 psi, so a stock FPR doesn't seem to be doing much for me.
~ I added an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator (w/ gauge) before the stock one and dialed it down to 40 psi. Now both of the pressure gauges read 40 psi. Luckily I had an available port on my gas tank to add the additional return line from the new FPR. But.... that did not fix the problem.

So being at my wits end I decided to buy another Idle Control Valve even though I had a new one on there, along with a new Map Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor.

The new one wasn't going to be here in time for my new Year's trip, so I went to the junkyard and bought a replacement throttle body with those 3 stock sensors on it. Bolted it on, plugged in all the wires and it's fixed! So I believe it was a faulty (new) Idle Air Control Valve, but I'm not going to swap out the second new one that has since arrived to find out. It's running good as is, so I'm not touching it, haha.

I don't know what the lesson is here, but maybe it's to not trust that your new replacement parts are actually any good and if you can borrow a known working sensor or part from someone it might get you to a solution faster than the two months I've spent on this. I appreciate the help I got from the forum along the way.
 
MPC said:
Finally some good news for my Honda idle issues! I have been through the wringer on this but it's idling good and running good now. I had a successful shake down run at Ocotillo Wells over New Years. It runs like a champ and I'm very pleased with the power as an upgrade from the 2.2 Ecotec I had in it.

The long and winding road:
~ I smoke tested and found no leaks.
~ Replaced the stock fuel pressure regulator with new; no change.
~ Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro GSL 393; no change.
~ Reset the throttle position sensor by using the min. and max. voltage readings; no change.
~ Pulled the intake off again, put on new gaskets with copper seal spray; no change.
~ Smoke tested again; no leaks.
~ I added a fuel pressure gauge after the fuel pressure regulator after the FPR to see what pressure the fuel injectors were getting; still around 70 psi, so a stock FPR doesn't seem to be doing much for me.
~ I added an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator (w/ gauge) before the stock one and dialed it down to 40 psi. Now both of the pressure gauges read 40 psi. Luckily I had an available port on my gas tank to add the additional return line from the new FPR. But.... that did not fix the problem.

So being at my wits end I decided to buy another Idle Control Valve even though I had a new one on there, along with a new Map Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor.

The new one wasn't going to be here in time for my new Year's trip, so I went to the junkyard and bought a replacement throttle body with those 3 stock sensors on it. Bolted it on, plugged in all the wires and it's fixed! So I believe it was a faulty (new) Idle Air Control Valve, but I'm not going to swap out the second new one that has since arrived to find out. It's running good as is, so I'm not touching it, haha.

I don't know what the lesson is here, but maybe it's to not trust that your new replacement parts are actually any good and if you can borrow a known working sensor or part from someone it might get you to a solution faster than the two months I've spent on this. I appreciate the help I got from the forum along the way.
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Thanks for sharing your experience on this one, glad you were able to get your idle issue fixed! I have the same exact idle issue. I replaced my IAC and cleaned the TB and was still having the problem. What did the junkyard TB run you?
 
nzulmer said:
Thanks for sharing your experience on this one, glad you were able to get your idle issue fixed! I have the same exact idle issue. I replaced my IAC and cleaned the TB and was still having the problem. What did the junkyard TB run you?
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It was $59 including tax and $5 core charge at LKQ in Oceanside. Considering that the new IAC valve was $63, I thought it was worth it. I guess they could have dinged me for each attached sensor, but they didn't. I have another complete spare junkyard throttle body with the 3 stock sensors. I went back the next day and got a second one to keep as a spare in my trailer. That may seem like overkill, but based on how many hours I have into this, I'd rather have the extra parts on hand than the $59 in my wallet.

I'm in Vista if you want to borrow my spare to help diagnose. Also, check Ebay. Some of the throttle bodies will be listed with the sensors still on them.
 
MPC said:
It was $59 including tax and $5 core charge at LKQ in Oceanside. Considering that the new IAC valve was $63, I thought it was worth it. I guess they could have dinged me for each attached sensor, but they didn't. I have another complete spare junkyard throttle body with the 3 stock sensors. I went back the next day and got a second one to keep as a spare in my trailer. That may seem like overkill, but based on how many hours I have into this, I'd rather have the extra parts on hand than the $59 in my wallet.

I'm in Vista if you want to borrow my spare to help diagnose. Also, check Ebay. Some of the throttle bodies will be listed with the sensors still on them.
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That's the salvage yard I was planning on going to and that price isn't bad at all. Totally worth grabbing a second one. I think I paid like $120 for just the IAC at oriellys which I thought was ridiculous.

I appreciate that, but I have a j32a1 which I think might have a slightly different TB. But I am not sure.
 
Glad you got it figured out. I trust OEM sensors from a junkyard over any aftermarket from an auto parts store.

They due tend to gunk up sometimes and will need to be cleaned with parts cleaner and manually open and close the valve.

Just dealt with this yesterday. Car would only idle a 2K RPM's and the valve was stuck open.
 
Yeah, that's why I ordered the new IAC online, the local parts store prices were ridiculous.
But now I don't even know if the new parts I'm getting are working or not. Seems like not.
 
Ganzo said:
What is the sensor that goes right there where I circled? Is it needed? I had my car on and disconnected the sensor that goes there and nothing changed when its disconnected
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most likely intake air temp.

depending on what ECU you are running, when unplugged, the ECU defaults to a reasonable value. on a NA car, there isnt a huge impact from inlet air temp, only a few percent differences in the fueling, thats why it likely made little to no difference in performance other than possible slightly effecting fuel economy.

on a forced induction car the temp inlet temp changes can be substantial.
 
currently replacing the blown up j35a4 in a friends sand car and it sent some shrapnel through the turbo, which is 20 years old, so I figure it’s best to replace the turbo while we’re putting a fresh (rods and pistons) motor in.

With that said, what’s the current go to turbo for one of these motors? Looking for quick spool over max power (400whp on pump gas would be ideal)
 
Loganhawkins418 said:
currently replacing the blown up j35a4 in a friends sand car and it sent some shrapnel through the turbo, which is 20 years old, so I figure it’s best to replace the turbo while we’re putting a fresh (rods and pistons) motor in.

With that said, what’s the current go to turbo for one of these motors? Looking for quick spool over max power (400whp on pump gas would be ideal)
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Gt35 is the turbo. 400whp on pump gas is a stretch. Will need some race gas or e85 for those numbers.
 
Not to sidetrack this thread, but I am looking for Pilot Bearing and can't seem to find any, does anyone know a place that would carry them? Dealer said junkyard, not the best option. The bearing looks good, but want to replace due to everything apart. Motor is the 3.5 Honda, currently it has a needle bearing in the flywheel.
 
Dave folts has them in stock as well as Pacific Customs in Upland has them. Where are you located? I have a spare sitting on the shelf that you are welcome to if you want to drive up to Rancho Cucamonga. I just bought it last week.
 
Pacific cu
ChasingSand said:
Dave folts has them in stock as well as Pacific Customs in Upland has them. Where are you located? I have a spare sitting on the shelf that you are welcome to if you want to drive up to Rancho Cucamonga. I just bought it last week.
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Pacific Customs moved to upland???
 
ChasingSand said:
Dave folts has them in stock as well as Pacific Customs in Upland has them. Where are you located? I have a spare sitting on the shelf that you are welcome to if you want to drive up to Rancho Cucamonga. I just bought it last week.
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I am in Canyon Lake, just went to Kartek and Wright Gearbox, neither had them. I just ordered from Pacific Custom's, thanks for the direction and offer.
 
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