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Has anyone interchanged throttles bodies with different j series motors? Im going to pick a part today to grab a TB, hoping they have one for a j32a1. If they don't have any, am I safe to use a j35 TB? I know there are lots of interchangeable parts between the different j series motors. Not sure if a TB is on that list.
 
nzulmer said:
Has anyone interchanged throttles bodies with different j series motors? Im going to pick a part today to grab a TB, hoping they have one for a j32a1. If they don't have any, am I safe to use a j35 TB? I know there are lots of interchangeable parts between the different j series motors. Not sure if a TB is on that list.
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Being a Honda newbie, I don't know for sure. I think they are different size throttle bodies, but the mounting bolt pattern is the same. I'm pretty sure you can take your current throttle body in with you to match it up, just make sure to show it to them on entry and they will mark it somehow as it being yours, not theirs. Or you could just trace the pattern onto some paper and take that with you.

You probably know this, but at LKQ you can look up what vehicles they have along with their location. The specific parts on them aren't inventoried, but if you need say an Acura, you can find out how many Acuras they have and get their locations to save time. Use "View Inventory" , not "Find Your Parts" on their website.

www.lkqpickyourpart.com

acura Used Auto Parts | Oceanside

Acura used auto parts available. Get a great deal on parts for your Acura at LKQ Pick Your Part - Oceanside
www.lkqpickyourpart.com www.lkqpickyourpart.com
 
MPC said:
Being a Honda newbie, I don't know for sure. I think they are different size throttle bodies, but the mounting bolt pattern is the same. I'm pretty sure you can take your current throttle body in with you to match it up, just make sure to show it to them on entry and they will mark it somehow as it being yours, not theirs. Or you could just trace the pattern onto some paper and take that with you.

You probably know this, but at LKQ you can look up what vehicles they have along with their location. The specific parts on them aren't inventoried, but if you need say an Acura, you can find out how many Acuras they have and get their locations to save time. Use "View Inventory" , not "Find Your Parts" on their website.

www.lkqpickyourpart.com

acura Used Auto Parts | Oceanside

Acura used auto parts available. Get a great deal on parts for your Acura at LKQ Pick Your Part - Oceanside
www.lkqpickyourpart.com www.lkqpickyourpart.com
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Appreciate the input. I lucked out and they had two j32’s there. I checked out a couple j35s and they had different style connectors on some of the sensors so I didn’t bother. Funny to find that an odyssey and a pilot were missing their TB’s! Haha
 
When I cracked my block it pushed out one of the freeze plugs that sits under the rocker shafts in the heads. Didn’t even know they were there. I saw that on P2R’s turbo motor he welds them shut. Anyone ever pushed one out of the head?
 
Your coolant system saw more than your "17.6lbs" of boost spike when the cylinder wall blew. The rad cap on the car that engine came out of was most likely 1.1BAR, which is about 16psi. Your spike should no have popped a plug. I'd be suspect of your radiator's health.
 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
Your coolant system saw more than your "17.6lbs" of boost spike when the cylinder wall blew. The rad cap on the car that engine came out of was most likely 1.1BAR, which is about 16psi. Your spike should no have popped a plug. I'd be suspect of your radiator's health.
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Going to pressure test it this week and probably replace in the off season. No visible leaks so far
 
So had the car out this weekend and after putting a well prepared and cleaned up junkyard TB on, i was still having idling issues. Then it started to show signs of poor performance issues after idle. Puzzled by the problem, I was convinced by a friend to start looking at the fuel system.

I thought I ruled a fuel issue out because I had just installed a brand new fuel pump (fluidflow from kartek), brand new pre filter (120 micron XRP), brand new post filter (10 micron XRP) and all new fuel lines/fitting from the tank's sump bung to the regulator. So I went back to my old set up that came with the car which was an older bosch pump (not an 044, cant remember the part number), a napa gold pre filter (no idea what the micron is) and then I just ran no post filter. Problem was resolved.

Come to find out, my brand new post filter was completely clogged with a gray substance. Not sure if it was from the pump or what. Cleaned it, reinstalled, no issues were present. So moral of the story.... check everything, even if its new lol. Just glad I resolved the problem. Figured I would share it on this thread to help anyone rule out potential idling issues.
 
^^^ first thing I do every season is replace fuel filters, easy maintenance item and can check off some boxes if I have issues. That means about every 20 days of duning I am doing this with running E85.

FYI, before last trip I had my engine out, when I put it back in it would start and not run idle more than 5 seconds. I remember reading on this thread the same problem, went to O'rielly's and picked up a new intake air pressure sensor. GD.com for the easy fix again. I guess it got cracked on the re-install.
 
Getting close to putting together a 3.5 - and was wondering if someone could post all the mods you need to do to the stock engine to make it function in sand car?

So far it seems like:

EGR remove and block off plate?
Weld some cap thing on the water pump?

Questions I'm still figuring out:
Where to put thermal switch for fans - ideally two of them as to not have both fans come on at once (180 and 195?) - radiator bung, or inline thing on hoses is an option -but it looks like there's extra ports on the water pump?

What Micron fuel filter? 40 pre-pump seems like a good choice?

Recommended gaskets and or parts to replace on a used engine?
 
wesinls said:
Getting close to putting together a 3.5 - and was wondering if someone could post all the mods you need to do to the stock engine to make it function in sand car?

So far it seems like:

EGR remove and block off plate?
Weld some cap thing on the water pump?

Questions I'm still figuring out:
Where to put thermal switch for fans - ideally two of them as to not have both fans come on at once (180 and 195?) - radiator bung, or inline thing on hoses is an option -but it looks like there's extra ports on the water pump?

What Micron fuel filter? 40 pre-pump seems like a good choice?

Recommended gaskets and or parts to replace on a used engine?
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Plug the EGR port on the plenum if flipping the manifold. I plugged the air ports on the intake manifolds as well.

I think you can use the ecu to control the fans?

Always replace the rear main seal.
 
wesinls said:
Getting close to putting together a 3.5 - and was wondering if someone could post all the mods you need to do to the stock engine to make it function in sand car?

So far it seems like:

EGR remove and block off plate? Other than aesthetics, the valve can stay. It blocks the port.
Weld some cap thing on the water pump? Not necessary if you cap the hose ports on the valve.

Questions I'm still figuring out:
Where to put thermal switch for fans - ideally two of them as to not have both fans come on at once (180 and 195?) - radiator bung, or inline thing on hoses is an option -but it looks like there's extra ports on the water pump? The stock water manifold has a thermo-switch to turn on the fans at approx. 205. There is an aftermarket switch that will bring them on earlier. If you want to stage the fans, you will have to figure this out..is not controlled by the ECU in any way..

What Micron fuel filter? 40 pre-pump seems like a good choice?

Recommended gaskets and or parts to replace on a used engine? OE gaskets only. Replace the rear main seal and t-belt.
Click to expand...
 
Cookie said:
^^^ first thing I do every season is replace fuel filters, easy maintenance item and can check off some boxes if I have issues. That means about every 20 days of duning I am doing this with running E85.

FYI, before last trip I had my engine out, when I put it back in it would start and not run idle more than 5 seconds. I remember reading on this thread the same problem, went to O'rielly's and picked up a new intake air pressure sensor. GD.com for the easy fix again. I guess it got cracked on the re-install.
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This was probably day 4 or 5 of duning with the the new filter for me. Seasonally makes total sense. I might be doing it more often now than that and changing it out to a 40 instead of 10.
 
There's a few pics in this thread - but can others post pictures of their throttle cable setups? Given I'm doing a mid-engine I don't plan on flipping the intake
 
Anyone have an amazon link for valve cover gasket replacement for j35a4?
 
Ganzo said:
Anyone have an amazon link for valve cover gasket replacement for j35a4?
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Dont buy aftermarket. Go to hondapartsnow.com and order them if you can wait or go to the dealer. They are super cheap.

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For those running the J2R or Trac stuff water neck - how did you Y together the two cylinder ports? I have my own ideas but curious how other have done it...thinking of running a T 16AN.

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Cookie said:
^^^ first thing I do every season is replace fuel filters, easy maintenance item and can check off some boxes if I have issues. That means about every 20 days of duning I am doing this with running E85.

FYI, before last trip I had my engine out, when I put it back in it would start and not run idle more than 5 seconds. I remember reading on this thread the same problem, went to O'rielly's and picked up a new intake air pressure sensor. GD.com for the easy fix again. I guess it got cracked on the re-install.
Click to expand...
What other symptoms were you having? Chasing a high idle issue ever since new your went in last month. Changed out IAC with no change but did pull the IAT and was coated with oil from when the motor blew. Was too late to start it and see if cleaning it made a difference.
 
Symptoms with bad fuel filters for me, engine will start popping at high throttle, as well I can hear my fuel pump working harder, even at idle.

Symptoms for Intake Air Pressure, it would start and die in 5 seconds. Computer was turning off the motor when it wasn't getting any reading from that sensor.
 
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