The official Honda Thread

Yes, rails will stay in location.  The holes I was mentioning are new bolt holes.  One on each rail won't line up.  They are just through holes in a flange on the rail....you'll see.
That makes more sense, haha. Thank you! 

 
Hi guys, I am in the middle of a Honda J34A4 swap into my buggy this summer.  I am upgrading from an Ecotec 2.2. I got the engine from a running donor buggy with the harness, but I do need to flip the intake to make room for a gas tank.  It looks like I need to remove the fuel rails in order to reach some of the bolts holding the runner in place.  Should those fuel rails just pop up and off of the fuel injectors with a little persuasion?   Just want to make sure there's not something else I should be disconnecting before I put some force on them. Thanks.

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You only turn the top. The lower runners stay where they are.

 
You only turn the top. The lower runners stay where they are.
Maybe I'm not understanding due to terminology.  The two pieces, each with a long stud still in them (one with a blue mark) are the "runners" aren't they?  My understanding is those need to be rotated 180 degrees.  Otherwise the manifold holes and bolts don't line up, right?

That extra spacer laying to the left (1-5/8" thick) is I'm assuming an aftermarket spacer, which rotates 180 also. Thanks

 
Maybe I'm not understanding due to terminology.  The two pieces, each with a long stud still in them (one with a blue mark) are the "runners" aren't they?  My understanding is those need to be rotated 180 degrees.  Otherwise the manifold holes and bolts don't line up, right?

That extra spacer laying to the left (1-5/8" thick) is I'm assuming an aftermarket spacer, which rotates 180 also. Thanks
The spacer is factory

 
Maybe I'm not understanding due to terminology.  The two pieces, each with a long stud still in them (one with a blue mark) are the "runners" aren't they?  My understanding is those need to be rotated 180 degrees.  Otherwise the manifold holes and bolts don't line up, right?

That extra spacer laying to the left (1-5/8" thick) is I'm assuming an aftermarket spacer, which rotates 180 also. Thanks
The spacer is factory and I removed mine to lower top. I will have to check with the person who I helped do his, I did not turn mine but as I recall we didn't do the runners and this is why the one port at the top in your photo needs to be filled. By the blue mark.

 
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OK, I think I'm wrong and you do turn the runners. But you still need to fill egr port. Have fun.

 
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Have had mine out a few times. Stock ECU running 7psi. I have the missing link at the MAP sensor and 12:1 FMU. It runs great nice and tan on the exhaust. The only thing is it seems to run rich when cold. Anyone else have this issue? It hunts a bit at idle until it warms up a couple of mins and then levels out and idles smooth at about 800rpm.  But at cold it’s very rich and will push a bit of black smoke until it warms up a bit. Just seeing if others experience this and if not what to look at. I replaced the 02, MAP sensor and the IAC.

 
I made some progress on flipping the intake and throttle body to the rear of the buggy.  Some bolts were hard to reach and put up a good fight, but the runners are now rotated 180 degrees.  Would you guys mind checking my work here to make sure I'm this correctly?

The first picture is where I plugged the opening with JB Weld.

The second picture: I made a plate and capped the now exposed hole (just to keep dirt out).

Third picture: Is this the coolant by-pass location that needs to be capped (labeled #3)? And capped at the other end on the intake?

Other than that, I need to replace a few hoses that are now too short. Thanks for the help.

Honda plugged hole.jpg

Honda opening plate.jpg

Honda coolant line.jpg

 
These two guys will need to be plugged back into the hoses on the manifolds, or plugged at the manifold. Big vacuum leak if left open.

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Anyone have pics of their honda motors that they have had parts powdercoated? Pics please?

 
IMG_1019.jpegsilver vain on the intake, cobalt blue on the valve covers, platinum on the headers

 
It’s in my trailer, so no more photos for now. 3.2 turbo s type with a a1 intake and throttle body (smaller) than s type

 
Word of caution with powder coating the valve covers. They like to hold a lot of the sand from the sandblaster in the baffles underneath. Seen that happen more than once. 

 
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