Speed UTV

Finally broke down and watched the video. Holy smokes that looked bad.

 
jesus that speed looked like it was tied to a stump. 20 lengths and still got walked. cars are a joke


23 hours ago, Rockwood said:

Probably didn’t do the elaborate handshake to satisfy all the ECU requirements for full power…



All the hate from people that have never owned or driven one is hilarious.  I have tune 7, not 3000.  You can go back and read my reviews... but I can tell you the Speed in that vid wasn't running anywhere near its potential/how mine runs.  I know a 2 seat Pro R would for sure stomp me, but not like that.  I've done 85+ through whoops in not a ton more distance.  

A lot of people don't realize if you're don't get coolant *and* oil temps past 170, you don't get full boost.  People can bitch about that, but really... do you want 20psi on a cold motor?  

-TJ

 
All the hate from people that have never owned or driven one is hilarious.  I have tune 7, not 3000.  You can go back and read my reviews... but I can tell you the Speed in that vid wasn't running anywhere near its potential/how mine runs.  I know a 2 seat Pro R would for sure stomp me, but not like that.  I've done 85+ through whoops in not a ton more distance.  

A lot of people don't realize if you're don't get coolant *and* oil temps past 170, you don't get full boost.  People can bitch about that, but really... do you want 20psi on a cold motor?  

-TJ


Are you saying everyone was running cold engines or only the speed car?   Why wouldn't they let the speed warm up his car?  Seems weird to not warm up your car before a race, especially a 1/8 mile drag race.

 
All the hate from people that have never owned or driven one is hilarious.  I have tune 7, not 3000.  You can go back and read my reviews... but I can tell you the Speed in that vid wasn't running anywhere near its potential/how mine runs.  I know a 2 seat Pro R would for sure stomp me, but not like that.  I've done 85+ through whoops in not a ton more distance.  

A lot of people don't realize if you're don't get coolant *and* oil temps past 170, you don't get full boost.  People can bitch about that, but really... do you want 20psi on a cold motor?  

-TJ
We are just having some fun with video.  No hate. 

 
ALLOT of SXS folks are "Sign and Drive".

Speed cars have nuances to them, much like a higher end Sand Car or anything with Performance aspects. 

They are clearly not for the average joe.

It's all very interesting anyway. 

 
ALLOT of SXS folks are "Sign and Drive".

Speed cars have nuances to them, much like a higher end Sand Car or anything with Performance aspects. 

They are clearly not for the average joe.

It's all very interesting anyway. 
The Speed car does appear to require more attention than the other high performance SXSs on the market. 

 
Are you saying everyone was running cold engines or only the speed car?   Why wouldn't they let the speed warm up his car?  Seems weird to not warm up your car before a race, especially a 1/8 mile drag race.
All cold, but none of my RZRs ever had safeties, not saying that’s a good thing but that’s just how it is. Also the Speed has a much higher capacity dry sump oiling system. With the big external reservoir the oil temps drop a LOT as soon as you shut it off.

-TJ

 
All the hate from people that have never owned or driven one is hilarious.  I have tune 7, not 3000.  You can go back and read my reviews... but I can tell you the Speed in that vid wasn't running anywhere near its potential/how mine runs.  I know a 2 seat Pro R would for sure stomp me, but not like that.  I've done 85+ through whoops in not a ton more distance.  

A lot of people don't realize if you're don't get coolant *and* oil temps past 170, you don't get full boost.  People can bitch about that, but really... do you want 20psi on a cold motor?  

-TJ
Problem to me is the window is pretty narrow. 170* min, 220* max. 

20psi at 160* temps would only hurt things if the motor was craaaaazy tight on tolerances, or you NEVER get it warm and water has built up. 

 
Problem to me is the window is pretty narrow. 170* min, 220* max. 

20psi at 160* temps would only hurt things if the motor was craaaaazy tight on tolerances, or you NEVER get it warm and water has built up. 
Fair points.  I would think even 150 should be enough... and I would like to see the oil temp threshold up at 240+ (not actually sure where it's at, when I hit a high temp threshold at 220 it was ECT *not* oil), heck with modern synth oil it could be damn near 300... but at that point the rest of the motor is prob already hot 'nough to get into the ECT threshold. 

-TJ 

 
Fair points.  I would think even 150 should be enough... and I would like to see the oil temp threshold up at 240+ (not actually sure where it's at, when I hit a high temp threshold at 220 it was ECT *not* oil), heck with modern synth oil it could be damn near 300... but at that point the rest of the motor is prob already hot 'nough to get into the ECT threshold. 

-TJ 
Yeah.  High-embeddability bearings used in OE/offroad engines tend to start to soften in the 270*F range.

Whatever the cutouts are, they should be rare in normal use.   

 
Yeah.  High-embeddability bearings used in OE/offroad engines tend to start to soften in the 270*F range.

Whatever the cutouts are, they should be rare in normal use.   
Yup, I proved the windshield doesn't work on Speeds, well at least the Diablo since I was hitting the 220 ECT cut but my buddy's 4 seater w/o windshield barely hit 200 once. 

-TJ

 
Yup, I proved the windshield doesn't work on Speeds, well at least the Diablo since I was hitting the 220 ECT cut but my buddy's 4 seater w/o windshield barely hit 200 once. 

-TJ
Ever get pictures of the inside of that radiator shroud?  :classic_ninja:

 
FWIW, this car still got hot with a windshield on, even with all the plastics removed from around the radiator.
Bummer, was hoping it would be something simple/easy.

How big are the wires/fuses on those fans?  Motors/blades look a bit undersized for the depth of the cores.

The angle of the radiator will promote air to flow down towards the trans/engine and bypass it, so if there's a way to seal that gap there, might help (the chassis tube will help prevent some of this). 

Is there anything to seal the sides of the radiator in the shroud, or is it just open?  Overall, there isn't a lot to force air through it, unless the shroud did that.

The hot side radiator hose looks too large.  Any coolant leaks there?

Hate the PS lines zip-tied to the cage, but that's common for this industry sadly.

 
Just add a variable radiator fan speed control, problem solved ?  :classic_biggrin: Too soon ? 

 
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