Speed UTV

Why can't they get more HP out of 2.0L if it has a turbo than a 1.0L motor? I'm lost...

.. most of the time.

abc
I never said they can’t get more, it just doesn’t come that way stock from the mfg. You’d have to pay someone like Larue and buy their turbo and install it.  hopefully the motor already has the internals to handle the boost. If not then you’d probably have to do some engine work. All that cost dollars, Benjamin’s, dead presidents. 😁

Didnt @Sand Shark post a video of Larue and their turbo for the pro r somewhere? Think it made 280hp?? How reliable is another question. 

 
I never said they can’t get more, it just doesn’t come that way stock from the mfg. You’d have to pay someone like Larue and buy their turbo and install it.  hopefully the motor already has the internals to handle the boost. If not then you’d probably have to do some engine work. All that cost dollars, Benjamin’s, dead presidents. 😁

Didnt @Sand Shark post a video of Larue and their turbo for the pro r somewhere? Think it made 280hp?? How reliable is another question. 
Word,.. yup probably need forged internals, etc. I liked this one Speed video which showed why the camber and all are hosed for the Polaris'. I can attest to the body roll on these larger rides. I'm stuck with them, still fun.

abc



 
I never said they can’t get more, it just doesn’t come that way stock from the mfg. You’d have to pay someone like Larue and buy their turbo and install it.  hopefully the motor already has the internals to handle the boost. If not then you’d probably have to do some engine work. All that cost dollars, Benjamin’s, dead presidents. 😁

Didnt @Sand Shark post a video of Larue and their turbo for the pro r somewhere? Think it made 280hp?? How reliable is another question. 
Been reliable so far.  

 
12 hours ago, ANGRYBUTTCRACK said:

Word,.. yup probably need forged internals, etc. I liked this one Speed video which showed why the camber and all are hosed for the Polaris'. I can attest to the body roll on these larger rides. I'm stuck with them, still fun.

abc

That was a good video. He has others that explain why all other SXS that have radius rods have a tendency to flip so easily.
 

Speed cars have trailing arms and a low center of gravity and lower roll center. As they go into a corner they actually squat get some negative camber which gets the most traction without flipping.

So yes forged pistons, rods and cranks. 2 injectors per cylinder 4130 chromoly front and rear suspension, no ball joints but mono balls and heim joints  real alternator, biggest shocks on the market, front steer which puts the tie rods in tension instead of placing it on the rear of front tire which then compresses on an impact (wheels usually get duck feet)and has a tendency to break, etc etc for the same price of a pro r?  it’s a no brainer. It was an even better deal for us who got in early!! 

 
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Been reliable so far.  
Yeah but how much more do you have spend to get it and have it installed?  Speed comes with it ready. And how reliable has it really been? A month or two of playing around with it and low miles I’m sure don’t cut it for me. 

 
I'll play with my twins for a minute.. then get into an actual car again.. I'm thinking another 415 ci stroker. 

Yeah more n' more, I think the Speed will be the better SXS for those who want to push it.

abc

 
I'll play with my twins for a minute.. then get into an actual car again.. I'm thinking another 415 ci stroker. 

Yeah more n' more, I think the Speed will be the better SXS for those who want to push it.

abc
If they ever actually deliver…

 
If they ever actually deliver…
My buddy who has the Diablo on order and won't get his until ??? aint trippin'. He used to have a truggy and all sorts of off-road stuff.. best passenger in my SCU to date!.. He's sold that there's no comparison between SPEED vs. Polaris/Joyner and Canned Ham.

... I'm starting to become a 'believer,' bu I'm not interested in a 'better SXS.'

If I ditched The Twins, I'd go back to a sand car or I'd buy a crazy Ultra-4 V8 IFS car.. either (used) is the same price... so fug it... 

:makerain:

abc

 
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I never said they can’t get more, it just doesn’t come that way stock from the mfg. You’d have to pay someone like Larue and buy their turbo and install it.  hopefully the motor already has the internals to handle the boost. If not then you’d probably have to do some engine work. All that cost dollars, Benjamin’s, dead presidents. 😁

Didnt @Sand Shark post a video of Larue and their turbo for the pro r somewhere? Think it made 280hp?? How reliable is another question. 
the guys at sxsblog already had to rebuild onee of there pro R engines after they did some hurricanes rotations on some frozen pond. Lack of oil pressuress I think. Any ways they showed part of there rebuild and said they thought the bottom end was built strong enough for turbo applications.Maybey they are correct.

 
Do any of you SXS guys have insurance coverage in AZ for street/liability use and damage. I have never had a sxs only several street legal 4x4 and the manx. Looking for an agent to get a quote.

 
Do any of you SXS guys have insurance coverage in AZ for street/liability use and damage. I have never had a sxs only several street legal 4x4 and the manx. Looking for an agent to get a quote.
I went through Geico on my Can Am and it was easy and much cheaper than anyone else. 

 
That was a good video. He has others that explain why all other SXS that have radius rods have a tendency to flip so easily.
 

Speed cars have trailing arms and a low center of gravity. As they go into a corner they actually squat get some negative camber which gets the most traction without flipping.

So yes forged pistons, rods and cranks. 2 injectors per cylinder 4130 chromoly front and rear suspension, no ball joints but mono balls and heim joints  real alternator, biggest shocks on the market, front steer which puts the tie rods in tension instead of placing it on the rear of front tire which then compresses on an impact (wheels usually get duck feet)and has a tendency to break, etc etc for the same price of a pro r?  it’s a no brainer. It was an even better deal for us who got in early!! 
The video jumped around a little on the explanation. Radius rods don't cause vehicles to flip, their geometry does.  Saying "our chit doesn't have geometry" (trailing arm) isn't a good explanation on why vehicles roll.

Roll centers determine how much body roll your vehicle will have, and is determined by drawing a bunch of imaginary lines.  All those lines break down like this: having a higher roll center means the sprung mass has less leverage over the suspension, meaning less body roll.  Like all suspension geometry, there's a tradeoff.  He's correct that if the roll center is too high, you end up with jacking because the suspension geometrically binds and instead of body roll, you get the whole vehicle rolling.

But, how bad is it? For the PoPo, my MS Paint skills sorta failed me because the geometry hilariously puts the instant centers somewhere in China, and NFW I'm taking the time to model it in SW or whatever... Either way, at ride height, here's my rough guesstimate on roll center:

image.png

And here's one at full droop:

image.png

Looking at the above, I think Robby's statement on jacking isn't 100% accurate.   It doesn't "go all over the place" like said in the video, but it does increase because the arms on a RZR are mostly parallel to each other.  This means the roll center will increase at about the same rate the track decreases.  Since the thoughts are 10" of track reduction at full droop, that's about a 15% rise in roll center beyond the normal amount of increase in ride height.  This will cause the jacking forces to increase as the suspension droops, but I don't think the roll center is so egregious that there's some terminal point of jacking and you get geometrically thrown over. I think the rollover tendency has more to do with the fact that it's a tall ass car with only 64" of total width than suspension geometry.

In any case, if the roll center geometry was such a problem, why'd he use it up front?

Design-Presentation-No.-8.-The-Baja-Bandit-appears_030.jpg


It's the same parallel geometry that puts the instant centers in China, so he's going to have the same jacking forces and changes in roll center.  Is he saying the Speed UTV will cartwheel around the front tire instead of just rolling over on its side? :biggrin:

That aside, with the 2" roll center in the rear, this means he'll have a downward sloping roll axis that increases non-linearly the more the car squats.  Driving style wise, I think the Speed might be more "drifty" as a result.  The RZRs and Can Ams, as we already know, understeer more and REALLY don't want to drift.

In the end, trailing arms aren't really superior for suspension, just different.  No suspension geometry is perfect, since you have a gazillion competing priorities that will change the characteristics of the vehicle.  Parallel links/control arms allow you to dial out bumpsteer, and give consistent CV angles so you don't need plunge.  Non parallel will give you the ability to dial out jacking forces and increase grip through camber gain (like a Funco's front suspension), but you won't be able to dial out bumpsteer and driven axles will require plunge.  It's all in the compromise you want and to say something is "wrong" like that it just dismissing the design goals. 

 
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BTW, here's a control arm setup that won't cause excessive jacking:

Roll%20center-L.jpg


Which, if you look, is similar (though more extreme on the upper control arm angle) to what Funco does up front:

e7a42f109532823.5fd63a2a933b6.jpg


 
The video jumped around a little on the explanation. Radius rods don't cause vehicles to flip, their geometry does.  Saying "our chit doesn't have geometry" (trailing arm) isn't a good explanation on why vehicles roll.

Roll centers determine how much body roll your vehicle will have, and is determined by drawing a bunch of imaginary lines.  All those lines break down like this: having a higher roll center means the sprung mass has less leverage over the suspension, meaning less body roll.  Like all suspension geometry, there's a tradeoff.  He's correct that if the roll center is too high, you end up with jacking because the suspension geometrically binds and instead of body roll, you get the whole vehicle rolling.

But, how bad is it? For the PoPo, my MS Paint skills sorta failed me because the geometry hilariously puts the instant centers somewhere in China, and NFW I'm taking the time to model it in SW or whatever... Either way, at ride height, here's my rough guesstimate on roll center:

View attachment 41022

And here's one at full droop:

View attachment 41023


Now draw one at full bump....

 
That was a good video. He has others that explain why all other SXS that have radius rods have a tendency to flip so easily.
 

Speed cars have trailing arms and a low center of gravity and lower roll center. As they go into a corner they actually squat get some negative camber which gets the most traction without flipping.

So yes forged pistons, rods and cranks. 2 injectors per cylinder 4130 chromoly front and rear suspension, no ball joints but mono balls and heim joints  real alternator, biggest shocks on the market, front steer which puts the tie rods in tension instead of placing it on the rear of front tire which then compresses on an impact (wheels usually get duck feet)and has a tendency to break, etc etc for the same price of a pro r?  it’s a no brainer. It was an even better deal for us who got in early!! 
SXSs have a tendency to flip when people do doughnuts with a vehicle that does not have an open rear diff and when they drive beyond their abilities.  Some flip because s--- happens.

I would be curious to see that the roll center is on the other brands.

I have a feeling once the Speed UTV orders are filled and dealers have units to sell the price is going to be more than a Pro R.  

 
Yeah but how much more do you have spend to get it and have it installed?  Speed comes with it ready. And how reliable has it really been? A month or two of playing around with it and low miles I’m sure don’t cut it for me. 
Low boost should not be an issue with the Pro R motor.  I am sure it is pricey to get a turbo set up.   Unless it comes from the factory with a turbo I would not want to mess with it.  I have yet to see an aftermarket turbo setup that did not require tinkering.  

Evo has tunes and exhaust for the Pro R.   Per their website on 91 pump gas they can get 243hp with a stage 3 tune which includes an exhaust.   Just a stage one they claim 234hp.   That would be the route I would go if I had a Pro R.    

Start throwing race gas or E85 and I am sure they can get some good hp out of the motor. 

 
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