1967 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Came across this neat little kit to remote mount the hydraboost. Looks pretty simple and has a Dorman part number for the slave cylinder. https://www.tdsideas.com/store/p1/Remote_Hydroboost_Mounting_Kit.html   So the intercooler is on the right side. On the left side I was thinking about mounting the battery and hydraboost below the wood floor in the bed. Then put in a couple of access panels like this. This one is 10x14 for the battery. Access and to be able to lift is straight up from the mount. Then a smaller access panel for master cylinder. If I do this the fuel tank/cell would have to go way in the back behind the rear cradle. Thinking I don' have much choice to fit it all in. Then the air tank would mount under the truck along with oil coolers for the engine and trans. 

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Good pic of that unit installed. Mine would look like this except would not have the line from the hydraboost going back to the power steering. So in and out from the front pump. Seems simple enough? lol. I need to call Wilwood and talk about brakes. Big brake kits get damn expensive from them. Stock brakes still work well and might go that  route to start with. Make sure I can change that down the road with what I set up. 

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Gave them the ok to build it. Gonna be a big boy. It will fit tight in the opening. 

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Corners will be a very tight fit so I'm having him put a little smaller tank on each end with a 45 at the top. I wonder how this would look if the optima battery is exposed down on the wood bed next to the intercooler. Or should I mount it under the truck and have an access panel to get down to it. Keep it all hidden.

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Sicker than a dog the past 6 days and dying to get back into the shop. Good Guys next weekend as well. Been thinking about my Little Rusty Wagon script and leaning back towards the first design. I had another idea to make it big like 35x8 running along each bed side by the engine. But now thinking maybe that would be to big for the complete design. So my thought is  Buy these Allstar valve covers. I like the exposed welds on them although the motor will probably be flat or satin black. You should still see the welds. Then remote mount the coils down low along the frame. Any opinions on this?

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The back of the truck is all going to get built in modules. So each section will be removable including the wheel wells. I was going to put the battery and hydroboost master cylinder on this side but I didn't want that much weight on the left side/drivers side of the truck. So that will probably get mounted right under where the intake is for the intercooler on the right side. Hopefully start cutting some wood tomorrow. And then install the hatch panel on top of the wood.

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Some things end up taking a lot longer than you would expect. I decided to use the most weathered wood. Of course once they're cut they are completely falling apart so to start with I liquid nailed them back together. Then I have a 1/2 thick piece of plywood that will be a backer board and they will get liquid nailed to that board. Then cut out my opening for battery access. Primered the plywood to help in case it gets some moisture on it. Although this truck is Rusty I don't plan on driving it in the rain. I drilled holes straight through my frame and then used a uni bit to open the bottom section up. So there will be screws going from underneath holding down the plywood and wood. Quite a process but I think it's going to be pretty neat.

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The other thing I'm struggling with this how square to make this wood in your relation to the frame rails. The frame has a slight taper getting narrower going forward. Just because the front cradle got narrowed more than the rear.

 
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I installed all the screws to suck down the plywood first. When I first started building this truck I dreamed of a distressed wood in the bed and I think this is so cool. Like a little kid today. I think I'm going to make some trim pieces to go around the edges with small dimple die holes. For sure the raw edge next to the motor has to be trimmed off and an angled piece of steel to finish it.

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Next up this week will be tackling the brake booster, master cylinder, intercooler. That's going to be mega hours to do the right side of the truck. Then I'm going to remake these little strut brace pieces on each side of the bed. I have a cool idea how to make these look. Those will be a lot of intricate work to make them the way I want them.

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I am out of room underneath the truck and need to somehow fit an air tank. This one that came in the kit I don't think I have a place for it and might need to make something. I would assume as long as I have the volume any shape is fine? I will also need to fit two oil coolers. One for the motor and one for the trans.

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Once the steering is all built there will still be a lot of room in the whole front section under the seats. Might end up building the air tank somewhere in these areas. As long as air flow gets to the radiator.

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Now you can see that metal framework through the rusty hole in the fender. Have to decide what color to paint that frame in that area. I might do flat black and then just lightly dust it with Rust-Oleum primer Brown. Try to get it to kind of disappear back under that hole.

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So the air inlet to this turbo is 4" Will a small k&n filter flow enough air? Something only 6 in tall would be nice. Meaning the element itself would only be 5 in tall. I assume five or six inches diameter. I think I've seen the tapered ones as well. I think it would look better with a black outerwear on it as well.

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Is it too late to box in a frame member to use as your air tank? That could be useful in saving space. I actually like seeing that clean new frame rail through the cancer hole. It's a reminder that the truck is way more than a lumpy cam and some rims on a barn find. Nothing wrong with good quality regular sized brakes. Having the master and slaves sized for each other with great brake feel will be more than enough. This thing won't be seeing willow springs. I was thinking a flatter round filter like a 14" from any ol 70's V8 but with a 4" flange would work. Maybe not 14" but 8-9". Couldn't find anything like that but did find https://www.amazon.com/RG-1001RD-Universal-Clamp-Air-Filter/dp/B00AFRIVNQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=22I3SONONYZ2I&keywords=4"+flange+k%26n+conical&qid=1700957700&sprefix=4+flange+k%26n+conical%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-9

 
Fireballsocal said:
Is it too late to box in a frame member to use as your air tank? That could be useful in saving space. I actually like seeing that clean new frame rail through the cancer hole. It's a reminder that the truck is way more than a lumpy cam and some rims on a barn find. Nothing wrong with good quality regular sized brakes. Having the master and slaves sized for each other with great brake feel will be more than enough. This thing won't be seeing willow springs. I was thinking a flatter round filter like a 14" from any ol 70's V8 but with a 4" flange would work. Maybe not 14" but 8-9". Couldn't find anything like that but did find https://www.amazon.com/RG-1001RD-Universal-Clamp-Air-Filter/dp/B00AFRIVNQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=22I3SONONYZ2I&keywords=4"+flange+k%26n+conical&qid=1700957700&sprefix=4+flange+k%26n+conical%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-9
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You sir may be a genius. I might have two existing air tanks in place and did not know it!!.  So this post shows how each section was put together. That is MIG weld burned in around each joint. I would be very surprised if any of the frame sections would not be airtight.  This post shows the longest frame rails in the center. My guess is both rails would have the volume that the tank has. Pretty easy for me to drill and pressure test each rail. Absolutely genius.  So could I T the two sections together? Don't see why not. 

 
Fireballsocal said:
Is it too late to box in a frame member to use as your air tank? That could be useful in saving space. I actually like seeing that clean new frame rail through the cancer hole. It's a reminder that the truck is way more than a lumpy cam and some rims on a barn find. Nothing wrong with good quality regular sized brakes. Having the master and slaves sized for each other with great brake feel will be more than enough. This thing won't be seeing willow springs. I was thinking a flatter round filter like a 14" from any ol 70's V8 but with a 4" flange would work. Maybe not 14" but 8-9". Couldn't find anything like that but did find https://www.amazon.com/RG-1001RD-Universal-Clamp-Air-Filter/dp/B00AFRIVNQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=22I3SONONYZ2I&keywords=4"+flange+k%26n+conical&qid=1700957700&sprefix=4+flange+k%26n+conical%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-9
Click to expand...
I like the rough size of that filter. That is a 3" and my turbo is a 4". So similar size just a little bigger. Think I will call K and N tech department and talk about airflow. Lot of CFM at 600hp. 

 
So the intent was not to make each weld airtight but those joints are welded very well. Even if there was a pinhole it would just go to the next angle piece in the frame and that cavity. No way two of those in succession leak. I will drill each one and put some pressure on it with a gauge. Brilliant!!  :dude:

 
Fwiw, lots of turbo folks say KnNs are a big no.  

If we're me I would make a box with a square or rectangular filter and duct it down to the box.  

 
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