The Transaxle Thread

Dockmaster said:
@Sean@Weddle I'm waiting patiently in line for my new car and will need to select the gear box relatively soon. My decision will be between an S5D or pony up more for the Albins. Engine selection is made, going with the RHS 427 and Whipple 4.5 on pump gas. I'm told it should make just over 1k at crank and high 700's, maybe right at 800 at rear wheels. I would rather spend money elsewhere than going with Albins. I'm told the S5D are same gears and R&P but the Albins has stronger main shaft bearing. Is this correct? Any reason the S5D would be a concern with my engine selection? Car is a Funco so won't have tall tires. And car will not get a lot of miles in a season. Input greatly appreciated. 
Click to expand...
I would say the S4D would be a great option for this. Yes, the Albins does have some overall better components, but the S4D has proven itself to hold up exceptional well since we got everything working properly over the past 10 years.

I would not recommend the 5-speed for anything over 800 ft/lbs at the crank, 2nd gear gets a bit weak with that kind of power. The 4-speed would be perfectly fine for any high powered sand car and will have much stronger gears. Most people only use 2-3 gears anyways.

 
So I sent my 2D in for a freshen up before this season. No mechanical issues, 7 Seasons. Felt it was due and there was a leak of gear oil coming from the bottom of bell housing.

Was told it had no problems, seals and bearings, done. Well, first trip, same leak as before. Ran it for rest of season with intent to pull it out at end find the issue. Trans has 2 vents and not losing any more than the drips from bell housing.

Just wondered what else it could be other than the output shaft seals, which were replaced during refresh, thought maybe rear main, but really smells like gear oil to anyone I could get to smell my finger.....

Looking for thoughts for what to look for when I pull it out 

 
Wejaz28 said:
So I sent my 2D in for a freshen up before this season. No mechanical issues, 7 Seasons. Felt it was due and there was a leak of gear oil coming from the bottom of bell housing.

Was told it had no problems, seals and bearings, done. Well, first trip, same leak as before. Ran it for rest of season with intent to pull it out at end find the issue. Trans has 2 vents and not losing any more than the drips from bell housing.

Just wondered what else it could be other than the output shaft seals, which were replaced during refresh, thought maybe rear main, but really smells like gear oil to anyone I could get to smell my finger.....

Looking for thoughts for what to look for when I pull it out 
Click to expand...
X2 on the pilot bearing as the cause

 
No, but it seemed fine when I checked it. Probably should have pulled the clutch and replaced it anyway. That will be a possibility. Was so focused on the gear oil aspect I didn't pay a ton of attention to it. 

 
Sean@Weddle said:
I would say the S4D would be a great option for this. Yes, the Albins does have some overall better components, but the S4D has proven itself to hold up exceptional well since we got everything working properly over the past 10 years.

I would not recommend the 5-speed for anything over 800 ft/lbs at the crank, 2nd gear gets a bit weak with that kind of power. The 4-speed would be perfectly fine for any high powered sand car and will have much stronger gears. Most people only use 2-3 gears anyways.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to get estimated torque curves from the engine builder. The numbers I referenced are HP.  I was thinking to go 5 speed to maintain a closer ratio between gears. Also recommended by car builder. 

 
KLC said:
We had our first trip with the Maxima 75w-190 oil in the trans and I can say that it DOES indeed shift better. From stone cold in the morning to shifting when hot after a few hours of hard duning, there was zero shift grinds heard all weekend. I was pleased with the outcome of the oil swap.
Click to expand...
Is the Maxima 75w-190 ok for an MD5 tranny?  Or should I run the 75W-140?  thanks

 
DZRTRUN said:
@Sean@Weddle do you have any update on the 4.86 2d R&P’s? I just keep hearing nothing yet. 
Click to expand...
Switched to the new vendor on these (new "Finish Ground" design that we have used for the S4/5 sets in the past 2 years now). Needed new tooling for the splines. Getting close, hopefully here in the next 6-8 weeks.

 
Sean@Weddle said:
Switched to the new vendor on these (new "Finish Ground" design that we have used for the S4/5 sets in the past 2 years now). Needed new tooling for the splines. Getting close, hopefully here in the next 6-8 weeks.
Click to expand...
Ouch, well that kills my white car going to Idaho. 

 
Sean@Weddle said:
We have 5.14 in stock if you can swing the lower ratio. Both the traditional cut and new finish ground versions. 
Click to expand...
I know, it’s not going to work for us. The car would be geared too short and it’s perfect right now. 

 
This has probably been asked a lot, but what brand and weight of oil should I put in a 2d?

 
Okie said:
This has probably been asked a lot, but what brand and weight of oil should I put in a 2d?
Click to expand...
For the past 10 years I prep about 10 cars a season with 2D's and I use LAT 85w-110.  S4/5 or D, Fortin and Albins get 85w-140.  Anything with 1000+ horsepower needs LAT 250w.   

 
I read through this thread again which has great info. What I didn't see is anything detailing the differences between an Albins and an S5D other than the description write-up in the beginning. I have been told that both of these use the same R&P and same gears. Is this true? If so, how does the Albins achieve a higher rating than the S5D? If second gear is the weaker link in an S5D what does Albins do differently to overcome this? I'm not looking for any proprietary info here, just the basics so I can make an informed decision. 

 
Dockmaster said:
I read through this thread again which has great info. What I didn't see is anything detailing the differences between an Albins and an S5D other than the description write-up in the beginning. I have been told that both of these use the same R&P and same gears. Is this true? If so, I'm not looking for any proprietary info here, just the basics so I can make an informed decision. 
Click to expand...
I have been told that both of these use the same R&P and same gears. Is this true?

Same R&P teeth, yes. Not the same 1st-5th gears. Albins does have slightly wider gears than an S5D, but not by much.

how does the Albins achieve a higher rating than the S5D?

Albins uses a Torsen differential (12 planetary gears, 6 each driving a sun gear), which is far stronger than the 4-spider open diff in the S4D/S5D. Also adds some traction biasing effect (limited slip diff) to get power to both wheels under acceleration.

There are some other design features with the housings and the way the bearings and gears are done in the Albins to give it a stronger overall rating.

If second gear is the weaker link in an S5D what does Albins do differently to overcome this?

2nd gear is cut onto the mainshaft with 1st gear (like a VW), rather than being splined onto the shaft. The S5D has a splined 2nd gear, and the way the gear is offset to the splines, it creates a bit of a weak spot. 

There are many other small factors that add up to an Albins having an overall higher capability to an S4D/S5D. I have been pushing the S4D/S5D lately because I know that most people don't use all of the power they actually have other than a few short bursts from time to time. I truly believe the Weddle is the best "bang for your buck" if you have a limited budget. 

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top