The official Honda Thread

Thanks for the info the only thing I see difference is maybe the injectors that's only thing left to change from old motor.i tried both map sensor same thing

 
16vsammy said:
Thanks for the info the only thing I see difference is maybe the injectors that's only thing left to change from old motor.i tried both map sensor same thing
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I did the same swap 3.5A1-A3. I used everything from the previous motor computer, injectors,TB, intake and harness. Thing fired right up. Did ya keep the same harness and computer from the last motor? 

 
Yeah it was the same harness and computer it seems to run fine other then the bouncing idle the only thing left to change is the injectors.im gunna change them and see what that does.thanks again guys for the input

 
Mine seems to search at idle bounces 800-1100 sometimes. Not sure what’s the deal, is keep us posted

 
16vsammy said:
Yeah it was the same harness and computer it seems to run fine other then the bouncing idle the only thing left to change is the injectors.im gunna change them and see what that does.thanks again guys for the input
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Honestly the amount of idle bouncing doesn't sound that bad.  Have you let it come fully up to temp and see if it goes away?

My car does a little more idle bounce than that when its cold and most of it goes away after it warms up.  Still has a little of it, but runs great.

 
If there is no IAC, its going to bounce when cold. may even bounce when hot depending on if the engine likes the amount of air its getting at idle. you may need to turn up the throttle stop screw on the throttle body which will make it idle higher but will stop the bounce. 

 
Alright I'll try that yeah I let it get up to temp to bleed the cooling system and still the same thing it runs fine I think it just didn't do it on my old motor

 
16vsammy said:
Alright I'll try that yeah I let it get up to temp to bleed the cooling system and still the same thing it runs fine I think it just didn't do it on my old motor
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you can take the other throttle body and put it on if it has the IAC. the map sensor might be different but Brandon would know more on that than me. if it has the IAC and you plug it in, it should stop the hunting assuming the valve inside is not sticking 

 
But I don't have a plug on my harness for that the previous owner didn't use it 

 
I'm curious about what everyone is using for fuel pressure regulators. As of now I have the stock Honda setup. I replaced a bad fuel pressure gauge and now noticed fairly high fuel pressure. I have a Walbro 255 pump from Summit racing and its running around 80 psi. It dosen't seem like the stock regulator can keep it down to 50 or so psi. The car seems to run pretty good but is a little rich. What's a good option, I don't want to change fuel rails or do a bunch of plumbing but would like an adjustable unit. From what I've read it should be around 40 to 50 psi. Thanks Todd 

 
I’m using the Weldon aluminum one. Last one was on the car for 20 years and just replaced it this month. Have heard good things about the aeromotive one as well. 

 
Carwashguru said:
I’m using the Weldon aluminum one. Last one was on the car for 20 years and just replaced it this month. Have heard good things about the aeromotive one as well. 
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When you have time could you post a picture please, thanks 

 
T Frog said:
I'm curious about what everyone is using for fuel pressure regulators. As of now I have the stock Honda setup. I replaced a bad fuel pressure gauge and now noticed fairly high fuel pressure. I have a Walbro 255 pump from Summit racing and its running around 80 psi. It dosen't seem like the stock regulator can keep it down to 50 or so psi. The car seems to run pretty good but is a little rich. What's a good option, I don't want to change fuel rails or do a bunch of plumbing but would like an adjustable unit. From what I've read it should be around 40 to 50 psi. Thanks Todd 
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I have this one from Aeromotive

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/a1000-injected-bypass-regulator/

 
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