Subaru timing belt slipped

So checked my no start issue. Found all the cams line up on the belt but the crank is 90° out. Guess that’s good as it seems the belt is worn pretty good (guess I’ll just change it every season). I think this is and early ej20 (93ish). I don’t see anywhere a guide would bolt in around the crank. Were they not on these earlier motors? Or am I missing something?  Thanks for any help. 
 

recommend oem Subaru belt or the gates?

also are these early he’s non-interference?

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That belt is on correctly. The early automatic motors didn’t have the Derailer. You must change the oil pump to get the two bosses for the Derailer  in your case. The oil pump is $150 for a new OEM pump. We only use factory timing belts $70 and the guide is $15. All in stock

 
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John@Outfront said:
That belt is on correctly. The early automatic motors didn’t have the Derailer. You must change the oil pump to get the two bosses for the Derailer  in your case. The oil pump is $150 for a new OEM pump. We only use factory timing belts $70 and the guide is $15. All in stock
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“Belt is on correctly”. Isn’t the arrow suppose to be pointing up on the crank in this position?  didn’t my crank pulley slip in the belt?

I’m hoping that’s the problem as the engine won’t start. And getting wet plugs on the 2 cylinders furthest from flywheel(not sure the cylinder numbers.) 2 other cylinders plugs are dry after cranking.

thanks John for help.
 

I’ll order the belt on Monday. 

 
There are two sets of marks on a subaru. Lines or arrows. If you put the arrow in the crank pulley at 12 o’clock then the 4 arrows in the cam gears will also be at 12 o’clock. We use the arrows when checking a car that comes in not running because they are at 12 o’clock when cylinder 1 & 2 are at tdc and we can test ghat with a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole. We use the lines when putting in a belt as that is safer (in this position all 4 pistons are 1/2 way down their holes)

 
John@Outfront said:
There are two sets of marks on a subaru. Lines or arrows. If you put the arrow in the crank pulley at 12 o’clock then the 4 arrows in the cam gears will also be at 12 o’clock. We use the arrows when checking a car that comes in not running because they are at 12 o’clock when cylinder 1 & 2 are at tdc and we can test ghat with a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole. We use the lines when putting in a belt as that is safer (in this position all 4 pistons are 1/2 way down their holes)
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I guess I’m not following. Are you saying that everything is lined up and it’s not the timing that’s causing the no start issue? Ran fine all week, pulled in to camp and parked  then just  doesn’t want to start for next ride  tried starting fluid  nothing  did notice a crack at weld on exhaust pipe where gas was dripping out when one of the cylinders with wet plugs  

2.0 turbo

any recommendations on where to start looking?

thanks as always!

 
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You understand correctly. The belt is on correctly. Best guess is electric or ecu. What brand do you have?

 
John@Outfront said:
You understand correctly. The belt is on correctly. Best guess is electric or ecu. What brand do you have?
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Thanks. So earlier in the week, came back from ride. Next morning no cranking. Not sure what but guy came over wiggled trigger wire on imi  starter and it started. 
was fine. Went on ride. First stop. No start but heard relay triggering/vibrating. Not where I could get hands on it to feel.  Waited a few minutes, started up no problem all through all the next stops of the ride. Forward to next ride, cranks sounds like it wants to fire on first revolution the. Just dry cranking. Get home in the garage. Not trying to start it fan comes on immediately now…??

ecu is a link lemv5

relays??

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Relays triggering/vibrating is not good and is sign of a ground not being grounded. Ecu can get hurt. Typically there is one or two ground wires from ecu that are probably landed on the block somewhere. Look for a broken eyelet or loose bolt

 
John@Outfront said:
Relays triggering/vibrating is not good and is sign of a ground not being grounded. Ecu can get hurt. Typically there is one or two ground wires from ecu that are probably landed on the block somewhere. Look for a broken eyelet or loose bolt
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That’s my project for tomorrow.  Thank you sir!

 
This is from a Link ECM, note the circled pins.  This car was @John@Outfront Shop a couple of weeks ago, and had very similar symptoms.

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Jammer75 said:
Thanks. I do have a receipt from previous owner that he had to send in the ecu for soldering (10years ago) I will definitely check that as well!
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HTElectrical said:
This is from a Link ECM, note the circled pins.  This car was @John@Outfront Shop a couple of weeks ago, and had very similar symptoms.

View attachment 22732
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Here’s a couple pics of ecu. Everything looks good to me. Unless you see something I’ll move on to wiring/grounds/(relays(old and crusty looking)

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Do you have any contact cleaner?  Can you clean the 9 solder joints thoroughly to see if there are any voids similar to what I posted?

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I would also thoroughly check the pins on the connector that plugs into the ECM, especially at the crimped part of the pins, and also check that none of the wires are broken internally (inside the insulation) You can check this by carefully holding the wire with needle nose pliers and pulling on the wire to see if it stretches.  If it does the internal conductor is compromised and needs to be repaired.

 
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