SPEED Tech

kazuaki said:
That filter cover is on the bottom of the engine, right? If so, I'd think you can just slowly remove it and tilt it a bit to get it to drain.  It's funny, that cover looks exactly like the one on my Can Am, except mine is on top of the motor and makes a huge mess every time.  It may have been discussed before, but how is Speed dealing with axle plunge in the rear? Do they use a plunging CV/axle setup like a sand rail?
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Regarding axle plunge. At the 45 minute mark he talks about it. Ep 33 



 
CampfiresNbrews said:
@Kazuaki  a bit more info. Regarding axle plunge and set up.
Ep. 24 at the 1:03:00 mark. The very end of the presentation. 
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Thanks for that.  The CV setup looks really cool and seems like it incorporates some great ideas.  I hope they hold up well, because they look like they'd be expensive to replace  :classic_sad:

 
kazuaki said:
Thanks for that.  The CV setup looks really cool and seems like it incorporates some great ideas.  I hope they hold up well, because they look like they'd be expensive to replace  :classic_sad:
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Yup, hopefully they hold up.  Here’s a screenshot of a brand new one. $574 for a complete replacement. Doesn’t sound too bad of a deal. Not sure if they’ll be selling it by piece’s or as a complete assembly  once they’re out  

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NIKAL said:
I have not been able to speak to Robby to find out why the oil filter cover design I came up with, that was going to be used in the final production engine, is not being used? Without a drain plug, removing the oil filter is going to be a mess. Unless they have tested and proven it’s not going to be, but there should be about 1/2 a quart of oil if not more sitting there.
 

After my first oil change will determine if I have someone duplicate the oil filter cover with a machined aluminum one that integrates a drain plug. Will probably have to make a bunch of them to justify the cost. 

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There's always a tube in the way on oil changes, isn't there? :biggrin:

I think if you loosen the screw on the right a little, then remove the other two, it should drain out the side fine.  Agree with you on oil messes.  My wife no longer ventures outside while I'm changing the oil on her Can Am... LOL

Lord of the Dunes said:
Another reason might have been increased cost for the drain plug. I'm sure there is a min. spec for how many threads a drain plug must have. That would make the raised drain boss a lot thicker, it would mean machining the boss at a different height than the 3 cover screws...  it's kinda surprising how much added cost is in the little things.
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This, plus people will find a way to screw the drain plug up.

NIKAL said:
When you break it down compared to a 930 CV & Axle set up for your typical “Prerun” or “Play Car” not Race Car as that will almost double the cost with all 300m CV parts. I was looking at Chromoly built CV’s. The Speed axle is a very good price. 
 

930 axles assembly; 2 axles, 4 cv’s, 4 boots, 4 boot flanges, 4 boot bands, 24 cv bolts. It’s about $1900-$2000 using pricing from Kartek, (Not including the outer stub axle or trans flange, or greased and fully assembled, even though that would come on a UTV axle assembly.)  
 

There is way more performance and technology in the Speed axles then the 930 design. The Speed UTV axle assembly is the same quality that was built as the aftermarket SpeedSXS XX and the same that they raced 3 cars in Dakar with, and without failure. In fact I believe the Speed UTV might be actually stronger then what they did for the XX as the HP is much greater in the Speed. 
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Are Speed axles 300M though?  Standard GKN or EMPI would be comparable material (not design) I assume.

 
NIKAL said:
I’m 95% sure they Speed Axle, CV star & Cage are Chromoly, I know for sure the axles are as Robby has mentioned it. It’s suppose to be the same quality as the SpeedSXS replacement XX axles Speed offers, only bigger.  
 

Empi stuff is pretty much junk IMO and from my previous experience. If it’s a non stress part then Empi is OK. Stock GKN CV’s are way better then Empi. But GK’s don’t have Chromoly cages or stars either. 
 

Back in the day we would buy NKG cv’s. Toss the cage & stars. Put chomoly and 300m parts in it. Instead of using smaller balls, we would sand & polish the CV body. Doing this added clearance and reduced a bunch of heat. Then later on learned and had a friend who would turn the housing on his lath and machined cooling fins into the CV body. 
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Word.  Axles look more like OEM FWD axles on Japanese cars, which get a huge amount of angle since they're steering axles, and have to be plunging since a lot of cheaper cars don't have equal length axles.  Always wondered why offroad didn't use this type of design. 

I used to only use GKN CVs, but kept losing the cage (and the CV as a result) at high boost, so switched to EMPIs.  Been holding great, but I'm conservative on angles and such.  As always, YMMV.

 
Curious if the tabs break and you need to replace the case: will you need to set up the diff for backlash, etc?

 
Those gears look extremely beefy to me. I was hoping to talk to RG or Todd at the show so that they could walk me through some of those 300 changes they made. Anxious to hear what @Sean@Weddle will be willing to share with us here!! 

 
Sean did comment not to long ago about the gears and such. Don’t know how to quote his posts from another thread so I just screenshot them. 
 

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I'm going to start charging you guys for this information. 

Busy today, might come back to this later, might not. Depends on whether or not this thread stays on topic.  :classic_cool:

 
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