Shock rebuilding.

Schmidty said:
One would think.. But I will not use it, because I cannot “un-know” what I see every day on shocks coming apart.. One would also think they would have abandoned their leak-prone rubber pellet on their reservoir endcaps , which come on every oem fox shock regardless of vehicle brand &  yet they haven’t.. Which is Ok by me.. I sell thousands of high volume nitrogen replacement ones.. A large percentage of fox shocks that come in are largely discharged, or completely dead all together..
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So, the seal kits I bought from Kartek, they have the leak prone seals?  

If I can figure out what to use I’ll probably re-valve after next season, I’ll buy the parts from you.  

 
Five.five-six said:
I think I did get it!  Thanks for all the encouragement guys!  waited a few hours and as the day warmed up the pressure came back up.  

now I just need to figure out how to jack the front up so I can get the front shocks off.
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strap the front arms together to pick up the front end  

 
About ready to put the last one together.  I took my time and did my best but still I won’t be shocked if something is amiss. My tuner is in Vegas, once we get the engine in we’ll run it good for a day in dumont on my way home.

couple things I did that I kinda made up.

first, when I filled the reservoir shocks with gas, I started with the ram all the way in to purge as much air as possible before adding nitrogen.

the other thing I found is that a rattle can cap makes a nice dust cover for if you need to leave the shock buddy in the vice overnite.

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My tuner is in Vegas, once we get the engine in we’ll run it good for a day in dumont on my way home.
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You must like it hot!!!!  It is going to be 115+ this time of year.

 
Five.five-six said:
About ready to put the last one together.  I took my time and did my best but still I won’t be shocked if something is amiss. My tuner is in Vegas, once we get the engine in we’ll run it good for a day in dumont on my way home.

couple things I did that I kinda made up.

first, when I filled the reservoir shocks with gas, I started with the ram all the way in to purge as much air as possible before adding nitrogen.

the other thing I found is that a rattle can cap makes a nice dust cover for if you need to leave the shock buddy in the vice overnite.

View attachment 6163
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Just read this . Do you mean you had the shaft compressed into the body before you charged with nitrogen ? 
 

Normally there charged fully extended as mentioned earlier . With the shaft , piston , etc in . It’s taking up volume on the body and pushing the oil moving the IFP in the reservoir moving it from its set point . 

So the volume of nitrogen will be less than normal .  

 
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Schmidty said:
King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 

View attachment 5639
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Another good option is the Amsoil synthetic. Been running that in my shocks for 10+ years and like it WAY better than the King oil. 

STLnew.jpg

 
chopshop said:
Just read this . Do you mean you had the shaft compressed into the body before you charged with nitrogen ? 
 

Normally there charged fully extended as mentioned earlier . With the shaft , piston , etc in . It’s taking up volume on the body and pushing the oil moving the IFP in the reservoir moving it from its set point . 

So the volume of nitrogen will be less than normal .  
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I don’t think so, when the shaft Is fully in the body, the IFP is closer to the shader valve and there is less volume in the reservoir and less air if you release it, when you fill the shock with nitrogen, the IFP moves away creating more volume but will end up in the same place when the shock is fully extended... it’s just that you started out with less air to begin with.  

 
HTElectrical said:
You must like it hot!!!!  It is going to be 115+ this time of year.
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It will be a early morning or nite ride....

I’m starting a camera project in Parker later this month.  Work hours will be 4:00AM-12:00 noon 

Idiotic, I know and it’s my fault for taking too long to submit the bid but this E85 turbo engine isn’t going to pay for itself LOL

 
Five.five-six said:
I don’t think so, when the shaft Is fully in the body, the IFP is closer to the shader valve and there is less volume in the reservoir and less air if you release it, when you fill the shock with nitrogen, the IFP moves away creating more volume but will end up in the same place when the shock is fully extended... it’s just that you started out with less air to begin with.  
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Yes .. you are right after rereading 

 
Schmidty said:
Schmidty Racing Suspensions

 Order online.. We carry Lucas oil, tons on shock seal kits, shock tools, seal bullets, UTV spring kits, N2 tools and regulator kits, etc..

 We will be doing our last shipping from Ca. on Tue. and then will be reopening in AZ a week or so after we get settled in our new space. 
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Necrobump

I spent more than a few minutes looking for oil on your site and couldn’t find oil or fox 3.0 seal kits.   Does that mean your are out?

 
Five.five-six said:
Necrobump

I spent more than a few minutes looking for oil on your site and couldn’t find oil or fox 3.0 seal kits.   Does that mean your are out?
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Definitely not out of oil..its in the dropdown of several main tabs..  not sure which seal kit you are looking for .. not every kit we carry has made in onto the website.. otherwise call the office on mon.. 5597409972

 
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