Shock rebuilding.

Fullthrottleguy said:
I built my Nitrogen setup like others have - it's not really cheaper in the end, but It works the way I want it to.  The main issue is to get a no-loss chuck 

While they seem like a PIA to haver to screw on and open and close - there is so little Nitrogen in the shock, any other way and you will lose too much. 

If you keep the lines shorter from tank to gauge/chuck you "waste" less Nitrogen, but a small tank goes a long way.  I spent the money on good gauges since the rig sits more than gets used and travels with me  - I bought some amazon Uniweld USA made 

https://www.amazon.com/Uniweld-RHP400-Nitrogen-Regulator-Connection/dp/B008HQ6GXO/ref=pd_bxgy_3/134-7688111-0027268?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008HQ6GXO&pd_rd_r=df07619c-f0c9-4c35-acb0-ac9768f365f5&pd_rd_w=vVTRH&pd_rd_wg=kl56Y&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=VNMGJ858PT0DCATAB5ZE&psc=1&refRID=VNMGJ858PT0DCATAB5ZE

the slickest setup I have seen is this one - One of our crew has it and its the go to for all of us in the dunes ...

https://powertank.com/products/sig-5700
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I was looking at this kit.. It’s kinda spendy but I like things that come in storage boxes.  Even for fasteners in my trade, I will seek out fasteners that come in a durable box.  I find that’s it’s nice to have them all in their case 2 years later when I need them again

https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-nitrogen-kit 

 
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Also, Fox has cup style seals. Karl Mason told me you can run higher psi in them and it helps. Mine are set at 250psi.

 
Five.five-six said:
I was looking at this kit.. It’s kinda spendy but I like things that come in storage boxes.  Even for fasteners in my trade, I will seek out fasteners that come in a durable box.  I find that’s it’s nice to have them all in their case 2 years later when I need them again

https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-nitrogen-kit 
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IMO anything you take to the sand needs to be well protected. The Poly setup is expensive, but maybe worth it  - in my shop I keep the tank in a cabinet and keep the filler in a cheap Harbor freight tool bag, but I keep cap over everything.   When I go to the dunes I put it all in a Monoprice  Pelican style case  - the case was over $100 alone - so the Poly Performance is not a bad deal - just make sure your local gas place will fill the tank - I use Airgas and they will only fill or  "exchange" their own tanks. My tank is steel and was $100 

If you start adding up - you see what I mean building it not much cheap if at all .... Tank $100, Gauges $65, No loss chuck $50, high pressure hose $40 in line shut off $35, Case $100....   thats over $350 ...

This kit is nice piece as well just add Tank and Bag or case  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/232396353756?_trkparms=aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111452%26meid%3D4a0e3a6800ca450a9d33dc5ba76998e1%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D164851611184%26itm%3D232396353756%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFeeWithCompV3Ranker%26brand%3DUniweld&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A2323963537564a0e3a6800ca450a9d33dc5ba76998e1|enc%3AAQAFAAACAEJX%2FIWKPQMSpEulASVo6BfRRaOz%2B8AKa6qh%2FkUdnBB7wCMmW3IXswm2ZwwdSCq6Nfj5JyuXK7fViDlx7sfHKdGndMaSkMc4KHA0cs5yjkCdWjLtqUByzvAd%2F5hVnjOFkMnFHAtCZaovvxwPcYAtXy9DqU%2Fi%2BdmI884zdeC6Y0um3IFKA5AyKHeeQS1w0r3C7r4H9FwH1Ro8PJ%2FIMNap188VSYvFMLHOBRASRQ25a31QmKIBpjH9X9JWTzJVDILESEQPNBmfuaq%2BtD0HzfII1iKjq%2F2Iwz3nGFb3wv3rn6AKceaqwFInKcCCEDfqhgPtMampmj%2BpBwmDUKZcBciLyKsftAlypgNSBNFP2iHNbvm8TwENePu580v8xW2e491G18gmYqvejVopX800d%2BYZ4kNf1JL6bdnEOTEM7FMvTQhHEZPvtaHQYLZZQ9YIBeuHRVaiHtLsR8kLlRG5IbTpF8GZbMbc1XAIDFYBNX08Pen0A8X8WfsQJ2%2B%2F3rcXNQvwBHqCm%2FR1dE%2FuAes5cMAQphOJLrDsjFtr7xgHPWb5aNh52G2Kyh0t2NZn9GDshbS%2BDro6vKsX5C5K0THev0vdHPAK8Kfz%2FbbYr2WZFDErtV1%2B6T1LpB35PWFmzWAYdSzBRmXBN8qCIczKdpOulNyi8eXKvVlaaTfqJ3ZSuooGH9XQ|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=1967022250

 
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I ended up going to KarteK and picked up everything for a reasonable price, including gas and oil.   They gave me blue fox oil though.  

 
J Alper said:
If you can take back the Blue oil, it is not very good, get the Red or the King oil. 
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I had asked for the red and they insisted I didn't need it... I didn't see Mike, the guy I usually deal with, I think he would have given me red if I had asked for it.  they did say i could exchange the blue for red... so, that's what I will do.

I actually think these shocks had another season or two left on them.  the oil was pretty clear and the rears had 150 pounds, the front both had 95 pounds.

just for my edification, my notes from the teardown:

top spanner nut from top thread 1.220"

Oil hose super tight

Shaft nut super tight

piston 9" in

stopper 2.310" from bottom of threads

bottom to top

Thick washer 1.560 x .130
.800 x .025
.955 x .020
1.100 x .017
1.350 x .017
1.349 x .017
1.590 x .017

larger x bottom

1.420 x .020
1.420 x .020
1.350 x .020
1.350 x .020
1.100 x .020
0.955 x .020
0.800 x .020

2 spacer/washers 0.730 x 0.100

 
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The reservoir tubes, when I put them back together does it matter which side is hose?  They seem identical either side.  

 
Most of my time on this shock has been cleaning the surface rust out of the threads with a wire brush.   I know it’s just cosmetic but leaving it is like not fully wipe it your ass after dropping a Duce.  I didn’t take any good photos of the rust but here is an idea of what I was dealing with 

A4EDE0CA-7828-4D66-B285-5AEEAD3B967E.jpeg

 
I need to get the bottom eyelet off the shaft... These are th tools I have but I don’t know how to do it.  I tried with the eyelet in the vice and I tried with the shaft in the vice but I’m not comfortable using anymore force unless I’m sure which way to do it.

image.jpg

 
^ OK, glad I took the time to figure it out instead of just hitting it harder.   The outer ring that holds the springs on the shock pops up and then remove the snap ring and that ring comes off.  Well, it was so impacted with sand that it felt like one solid piece.   Tap tap tap turn tap turn tap turn and it came apart. Relieved  the minor scoring with 2000 grit and it slides on and off snug and smooth now.  

I think I may have installed one of the seals backwards because I absolutely could not get it back on the shaft until I popped it out and turned it around  then it went on really tight but didn’t feel like I was going to rip something   

First time shock building, I hope I don’t lose a trip over it 😞

 
your doing a good job, its all down hill now 

should have a little set screw on the bottom of the body, then it just unscrews, 

there is a Clip inside, take the anodized cover screw it on a couple of turns and then tap it down, then unscrew it and pull it up, this will push the inner piece down so you can get the clip out, 

then the shock should just pull apart 

 
J Alper said:
If you can take back the Blue oil, it is not very good, get the Red or the King oil. 
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I took the other rear apart and it had blue oil (fox I assume) the first shock had clear (king I assume) Is switching to red going to make it ride different?   

I'm sending my wife for red tomorrow  

Kartek gave me the card for a guy who does shock tuning in the dunes, I think I will see if I can pay him to take a ride in my car, tell him my shim stacks and spring markings and ask for recommendations. 

my bottom springs are 350 and my top springs are 300

 
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King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 

IMG_1149[1].JPG

 
I trust your judgement and expertise, but I'm puzzled why Fox would bother with the red oil considering it's stickiness and messiness. As many shocks as they build, I'd think they would pick something better.

 
Schmidty said:
King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 

View attachment 5639
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He is the Shock Man,  a lot of good knowledge from @Schmidty

 
Schmidty said:
King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 

View attachment 5639
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Thats great info  -  I have never tried the Lucas  - is this what you are talking about?

and use 10wt in  King and in Fox applications?

https://www.schmidtyracing.com/Lucas-Synthetic-Shock-Oil-p/lo.htm

 
Schmidty said:
King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 
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What Lucas product are you using?  I couldn't find "shock oil" on their website.

Thanks in advance for the reply.

 
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