Shock rebuilding.

Mac said:
What Lucas product are you using?  I couldn't find "shock oil" on their website.

Thanks in advance for the reply.
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You wont' find it.. They blend it specifically for us.. We get it by the tote. 

 
Schmidty said:
King oil is mineral based. It will get dirty, and break down quicker.. Fox Blue is Ok for street truck and small ATV shock use. I would never use Fox red.. We do hundreds of shocks, and the Fox red oil leaves a "sticky" residue on everything you pull apart.. "Sticky" is not an attribute I want in my shock oil.. On shocks  where the red oil leaks out, the shock oil turns into "goo" like bubble gum on asphalt.(see example pic). I only run, use, sell, recommend, Lucas synthetic..With the anti friction additives they put in it, the shocks will Run cooler (tested several brands of oil back to back)  It stays cleaner longer, with less internal wear/contamination, which= longer service intervals. 

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LOL, now that I'm putting them back together with red this morning.....

What oil would you recommend for the DIYer? for next time.

I'm 2nd guessing my piston orientation 😞   I had written down that the larger "X" goes to the bottom, I'll just trust my notes.

 
and I put the first one together I was so proud of myself until I noticed I have one to many wear bands left on my bench... dump the oil and install a wear band on the IFP

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
Its pretty hard to Beat Kartek for price and stock - Hard to not spend on a lot more on stuff you don't need  - but its fun
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I sent my wife to trade the blue for red... she is ZFG about the car and she feigns interest in my work on it because she loves me but even she loved looking at all the cool stuff she had no idea what it was.   

 
Five.five-six said:
Oh, now I see you sell it, how do I buy some?
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Schmidty Racing Suspensions

 Order online.. We carry Lucas oil, tons on shock seal kits, shock tools, seal bullets, UTV spring kits, N2 tools and regulator kits, etc..

 We will be doing our last shipping from Ca. on Tue. and then will be reopening in AZ a week or so after we get settled in our new space. 

 
Lord of the Dunes said:
They sell those at any auto parts store for $2 or less.
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was easier to share link from amazon. What I was trying to say is you can use these or something similar to pull the cap out of the shock body if you use these to attach to the threads where the Schrader valve is 

 
Lord of the Dunes said:
They sell those at any auto parts store for $2 or less.
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You're right! Jeff Bezos is quite often far more expensive than everyone else.









1 @ 1/1.99





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4-Way Valve Tool





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000487510  2044-A





Slime





4-Way Valve Tool





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$1.99 P 1









 
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Well, I got both the shocks back on and car on the ground and without the engine in the car, I worked the chassis up and down and the left one I could hear air in it so off it came and it was leaking too.  I had a spare kit and replaced the o-rings and it's on the bench right now with 250 PSI.

If it's leaking tomorrow, I think it's time to give up and send them out.  Really disappointing 😞

 
Kind of like higher education, you learned a lot, cost some money, and sometimes you don't ace the final. But credit is given for trying.  Hope they didn't leak down for you.

 
Don’t give up! If you have a nitrogen leak it will be at the reservoir cap. When you install the o rings make sure you are not rolling them into the groove. They need to sit in the groove without being twisted. Also inspect the cap and reservoir body for knicks  or gouges. 

 
So, I filled it to 250# yesterday afternoon and this morning it's about 245# but it's a lot colder... will temperature change the PSI?

 
Five.five-six said:
So, I filled it to 250# yesterday afternoon and this morning it's about 245# but it's a lot colder... will temperature change the PSI?
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temp might change it, or even hooking the guage back up might be 5 off,  if id does leak, on the reservoir just moving the seals around can sometimes reseat them,  I have had shocks leak from shops rebuilding them, so I am sure you are doing just as good as anyone else tackling them,  

 
One thing I did was drove the ram all the way in before I charged the shock to extend the IFP as far as possible to purge as much air as possible.  I didn't read about this it just made sense to me.    

 
richard h said:
Sounds like you got it.
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J Alper said:
temp might change it, or even hooking the guage back up might be 5 off,  if id does leak, on the reservoir just moving the seals around can sometimes reseat them,  I have had shocks leak from shops rebuilding them, so I am sure you are doing just as good as anyone else tackling them,  
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I think I did get it!  Thanks for all the encouragement guys!  waited a few hours and as the day warmed up the pressure came back up.  

now I just need to figure out how to jack the front up so I can get the front shocks off.

 
Lord of the Dunes said:
I trust your judgement and expertise, but I'm puzzled why Fox would bother with the red oil considering it's stickiness and messiness. As many shocks as they build, I'd think they would pick something better.
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One would think.. But I will not use it, because I cannot “un-know” what I see every day on shocks coming apart.. One would also think they would have abandoned their leak-prone rubber pellet on their reservoir endcaps , which come on every oem fox shock regardless of vehicle brand &  yet they haven’t.. Which is Ok by me.. I sell thousands of high volume nitrogen replacement ones.. A large percentage of fox shocks that come in are largely discharged, or completely dead all together..

 
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