I am no expert but I do alot of shocks (not that I want to ..) All the tools you mentioned are important in addition to standard mechanics tools. Add to your list : A smartphone - take Pics and Videos as they come apart, the first couple times it helps. Get a folding table and cover it with Paper towel or I use the lint free blue mechanics towels, and do one shock at a time and lay the pieces out as the come out of the shock and resi. then Video it - I like the Blue towels because I can measure all the shims and Use a sharpie to write the info down right on the Towel for reference - this way I know the valving. especially helpful if you don' t do them all in in one day and need to leave stuff overnight and forget stuff.
As others have said a good Bench vise is key - soft jaws work great - a Shock vise jaw set if you want to spend $200 or more ...it is worth it - If you are not careful and a big guy you could easily distort the shock housing tightening the vise and then its junk out of round. I have a trick I use - I "borrowed forever" One of the Wife's Jar opener gripper rubber thingy. I put it in the soft jaws and it stops the shock from turning with far less pressure on the body and stops scratches. I clean the shock bodies with Isopropyl alcohol before I grip them as well. Some people use painters tape for the same reason, but shock oil makes that slick.
Shocks are like doing an engine or anything else with tolerances and machined surfaces - clean everything super clean on assy. and make sure all the internal surfaces have no scratches or grooves - I use a Bright LED light and look well. If you do have scratches /grooves - replace the pieces its cheaper in the long run. I never rebuilt set where this is the first rebuild is likely to be perfect, usually poor assy cleanliness that ruins the surfaces. And don't worry if the shock oil looks like dirty motor oil with silver specks in it. Buy the Shock oil the company uses - Like King for King, Fox for Fox etc. The Fox is Red, King is clear.
You will also need rebuild kits and I also replace the Schrader valves as a good practice. On Kings I find 1/2 the time the Uniballs in the shock ends rattle - so I change them too as cheap insurance. I lubricate all the seals in shock oil while assembling, In the old King Building, they let me watch some of the guys assemble shocks, I learned some, getting seals on and off without scratching the aluminum pieces or Shock body is key. and not as easy as it looks, use a sharp pick and you will dig into everything.
Also shocks are under pressure - be really careful and make sure they are Fully depressurized Before pulling them apart and wear Safety glasses - I know it sounds stupid - I wheelie at 100MPH with no helmet but wear safety glasses building shocks ... Oil in the eye hurts. Some people wear gloves, I just use thin Nitrile gloves, but Mechanics gloves can stop a pinched finger during re -assy
Always after depressurizing make sure the shock will fully close with no pressure. It's possible for the IBP to let Nitrogen past the seal and not back. It the shock is not completely soft, don't take it apart - you could die.
Lastly for me, burping the shock to get all the air out takes some time, but it really important
I think the FOX shocks are easier to do than the Kings, but you still need to take you time and replace all the seals.
