My air cooled turbo project. (no more E85, just race fuel)

Five.five-six said:
Let me clarify. My MoTeC builder had noticed that there was always some exhaust bleeding off through the waste gate.   Turns out that somebody, and I won’t say who, neglected to install the valve seats when they put the waste gate together.

Ok, it was me.  
Click to expand...
Was this found out after the tuning?  How are you controlling boost?

 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
Was this found out after the tuning?  How are you controlling boost?
Click to expand...
There is this little blue valve that goes between the manifold and the waste gate that bleeds off manifold pressure to atmosphere.

This boost control valve only is open or closed but it’s wired to the MoTec M130 which controls it’s duty cycle which work like it’s open, closed or only open partway   The M130 has tables basked on peddle position, boost setting, manifold pressure and temperature and intercooler delta.

The MoTech takes data from that table and applies data from the o2 sensor, EGT, RPM and I think some other stuff.

Then it makes calculations and applies them to the throttle body, boost control valve, injectors, timeline advance and fuel pressure regulator.

Then it takes the results and uses proportional integral and derivative (PID) to correct for errors and it does this a bunch of times every second.  

I’m not exactly sure how PID works but I know it’s calculus and works pretty much nothing like this:







 
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Kraut_n_Rice said:
Was this found out after the tuning?  How are you controlling boost?
Click to expand...
Yea, it was found after tuning so we went back from the 5# spring to the 3# spring and tuned it again and it worked a lot better way down low and the same if not a little better up high.  

8 hrs dyno on Sunday, 5 hrs dyno on Monday, found the missing valve seal and another 3 hrs dyno on Tuesday.   

I burnt through almost 20 gallons of VP110 on the dyno.  $180, cheep!

The thing is this is somewhat uncharted territory, nobody puts M130 on a type 1 turbo intercooler VW …. until they found a dummy like me to pay for it.  The whole time there were 3-4 competent tuners, builders working on this dyno tune.  

The result is this car effortlessly makes gobs of power, is legit push a button to start and idle cold at 50 degrees (tested) super easy to drive but longevity is still to be seen.   

 
What kind of oil temps and Cylinder Head temps were you seeing during tuning?

 
Carwashguru said:
What kind of oil temps and Cylinder Head temps were you seeing during tuning?
Click to expand...
I didn’t do cylinder head temp sensors, no good place on my heads to put sensors and I don’t like the idea of stuffing something under my spark plugs.  EGT’s I think peaked at 1,350 and they were all +/- 50 degrees F

I’m working on setting up the MoTeC software on my laptop so I can look at this stuff myself. 

 
   Looks like our first trip is the week before Christmas.  

I had a chance to go this weekend but it sounded like a zoo and I just got back from 6 days in vegas.  Turns out my friends camped along the side of the road between pad 2 and pad 3.  I think I made the right decision.  

 
Any ideas where to find a car cover for my SU car?

The electronics are all waterproof but still, I’d like to cover it at night in case it rains. 

 
I simply bought one on Amazon, and made sure it was long enough.  I figured it would fit or not.... 

Bob

 
Bobalos said:
I simply bought one on Amazon, and made sure it was long enough.  I figured it would fit or not.... 

Bob
Click to expand...
Well, made it out to the dunes this weekend … without a cover.  I was busy putting trash bags over everything when one of the guys from camp offered me his car cover (he was parked in his 5th wheel for the rain)   Crap-o amazon cover will be here by end of the week.

car runs great and handles great but I’m thinking I’d like to give some attention to the 30 year old suspension. Previous owner has driven the car a few times since I rebuilt the fox 2.0’s and its night and day better now but I’m convinced I came make it a lot better.

problem is I’m blind.  Sure I could drop some coin on some new wiz bang shocks but I don’t have the foggiest notion on which to get or how to set them up.  Any ideas on who knows how to setup a SU 5 link suspension?  

 
Five.five-six said:
Yea, it was found after tuning so we went back from the 5# spring to the 3# spring and tuned it again and it worked a lot better way down low and the same if not a little better up high.  

8 hrs dyno on Sunday, 5 hrs dyno on Monday, found the missing valve seal and another 3 hrs dyno on Tuesday.   

I burnt through almost 20 gallons of VP110 on the dyno.  $180, cheep!

The thing is this is somewhat uncharted territory, nobody puts M130 on a type 1 turbo intercooler VW …. until they found a dummy like me to pay for it.  The whole time there were 3-4 competent tuners, builders working on this dyno tune.  

The result is this car effortlessly makes gobs of power, is legit push a button to start and idle cold at 50 degrees (tested) super easy to drive but longevity is still to be seen.   
Click to expand...
how much did 16 hours on the dyno cost?

 
John@Outfront said:
how much did 16 hours on the dyno cost?
Click to expand...
Normally it would have been thousands of dollars especially since I had 2 rather reputable engine builders, a MoTeC tuner and a MoTeC wiring specialist there through the presses. All of whom are local friends and were rather interested in this somewhat unique build.  

Cost was several pizzas, some beer, 20 gallons of VP110, 8 spark plugs, 6 quarts of Brad Penn 20W50 and a big old carbon monoxide headache. 

 
Five.five-six said:
Normally it would have been thousands of dollars especially since I had 2 rather reputable engine builders, a MoTeC tuner and a MoTeC wiring specialist there through the presses. All of whom are local friends and were rather interested in this somewhat unique build.  

Cost was several pizzas, some beer, 20 gallons of VP110, 8 spark plugs, 6 quarts of Brad Penn 20W50 and a big old carbon monoxide headache. 
Click to expand...
deal of the century

 
Well… I’m slowly moving forward on this.. I have a bug up my ass to put bypass shocks on the car.. also the guy who originally designed and built the car says that I’m going top break my chromoly stub axles and I want to replace them with microstubs.  (Isn’t chromoly supposed to be indestructible?) anyways, if I’m going to change out the hubs, wouldn’t that be the time to go to bypass shocks? 

 
I’m thinking it’s time for a MD4S-2D, I know I’ll need new mounts welded in but the overall length, is it longer than my. Rib?  Am I going to need new hoses and wiring harness? 

 
Five.five-six said:
Well… I’m slowly moving forward on this.. I have a bug up my ass to put bypass shocks on the car.. also the guy who originally designed and built the car says that I’m going top break my chromoly stub axles and I want to replace them with microstubs.  (Isn’t chromoly supposed to be indestructible?) anyways, if I’m going to change out the hubs, wouldn’t that be the time to go to bypass shocks? 
Click to expand...
Sounds like you need a super stub kit.

heat treated aircraft quality alloy stubs.

30% larger in diameter than type 1 stub

21 spline

direct bolt in replacement. no fab work

You can keep your existing drive axles (axle length does not change)

made by yours truly, using domestic materials.

super stub on the left, standard type 1 on the right.

superstub2.jpegsuperstub1.jpeg

 
parker@gearone said:
Sounds like you need a super stub kit.

heat treated aircraft quality alloy stubs.

30% larger in diameter than type 1 stub

21 spline

direct bolt in replacement. no fab work

You can keep your existing drive axles (axle length does not change)

made by yours truly, using domestic materials.

super stub on the left, standard type 1 on the right.

View attachment 57129View attachment 57128
Click to expand...
I had the super stubs in my last car. beat the hell out of that car. Had zero issues.

 
Five.five-six said:
I’m thinking it’s time for a MD4S-2D, I know I’ll need new mounts welded in but the overall length, is it longer than my. Rib?  Am I going to need new hoses and wiring harness? 
Click to expand...
You will need new axles bc the 2d is narrower. If you have room in front of your trans now  it shouldn’t be too hard to fit in without moving the motor back. I forget how much longer it is than a 6 rib but I don’t think it’s a ton. 

 
parker@gearone said:
Sounds like you need a super stub kit.

heat treated aircraft quality alloy stubs.

30% larger in diameter than type 1 stub

21 spline

direct bolt in replacement. no fab work

You can keep your existing drive axles (axle length does not change)

made by yours truly, using domestic materials.

super stub on the left, standard type 1 on the right.

View attachment 57129View attachment 57128
Click to expand...
I already upgraded my stubs to chromoly stub axles… not the same thing?

 
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