Glamis Only Speed Reviews

[WheresHotBoat]

Why do I have to be an engine builder to have my opinion on the temp restriction.  My group is not the type to leave camp, park at the hill and sit there for a long while shooting the chit watching cars.  We go to dune and dune hard as well as take turns leading.  When its my ups to lead if I ever get my Speed car, then what Im supposed to say hey guys give me 10 minutes notice so I can warm up my car.  Then if its really cold winter days/nights I cant get on the gas till temp is 170? Come on sir thats just lame.  In the desert it wont make a difference really but in Glamis hell no.  Like someone said so many people are bailing on the Speed car due to the issues.  Im doing my best to hang in there.  The latest and serious belt issues Speed had at the NORRA 1000 shows that they still have no answer to blowing belts.  And like you said many got the cars late in the season and not had a chance to really go through a full season to see how many belts they go through.  I want the car to be right as its the best designed car out there IMO....Dont get me started on the Speed Key!  But I am still hopeful the bugs are worked out by September/October cause if not I will unload my Speed deposit and have a different SXS.  

I don't dune, but shouldn't be much a difference. I let my car warm up for a few minutes, I do this on all my chit. Once you start to drive it'll get up to temps in just a mile or so, maybe even less. It's not really an issue unless you sit there at idle, and let the car cool down, then want to hammer on it. 

 

[JBL]

You just don't get it.  You don't have to sit at camp and let it warm up.  It'll still make ~10psi of boost which is plenty to get a ride started, and under load in the sand it's going to hit 170/170 water/oil really quickly.  Have you driven one?  Has it really been an issue for you?  You ask "I can't get on the gas till [sic] the temp is 170?"  No, no that is not the case at all.  You absolutely can and it'll still push 10psi of boost and 7k+ RPM.  

Again, talk to engine builders and ask them if they want 20psi of boost and 8k RPM on a cold motor.  

Eliminating the safety is not the answer.  Perhaps lowering at least the oil temp threshold would be nice, yet still safe.  Eliminating them is a bad idea. 

-TJ

Never said to eliminate it.  You just dont get it do you.  I said lower the temp from 170 to even 150.  

 

[J Alper]

I guess it depends. My buggy has an oil to water cooler on the cold side of the system. My coolant rarely gets above 180* on cold trips, I assume my oil isn’t much different. 

Limiting power, but still quick, annoying. Limp mode/no boost until “warm”, super irritating at best, possibly dangerous. I’ve seen videos of Speeds absolutely crawling up chit, and if one of our group had to toilet bowl to get out of a big dune, or sit there and idle for 20 minutes, mutiny will ensue. 

If that is the case you are killing the bearings, LS already have a issue with oil aeration, now you are adding moisture into the oil,  Water Temp is not a huge deal i have hit 265 in Idaho with a downed fan,  but when oil is to cold or to hot, it will destroy components,  I would do a Improved racing Thermostat or a oil temp sensor,  I try not to leave camp til it hits around 150 and then idle to the dunes, then i am closer to the 200 range to burn out some of the moisture,  The dry sump and large sump oil system take a long time to heat up,  working on a oil heat to go in the factory oil level port,    

 

[J Alper]

You just don't get it.  You don't have to sit at camp and let it warm up.  It'll still make ~10psi of boost which is plenty to get a ride started, and under load in the sand it's going to hit 170/170 water/oil really quickly.  Have you driven one?  Has it really been an issue for you?  You ask "I can't get on the gas till [sic] the temp is 170?"  No, no that is not the case at all.  You absolutely can and it'll still push 10psi of boost and 7k+ RPM.  

Again, talk to engine builders and ask them if they want 20psi of boost and 8k RPM on a cold motor.  

Eliminating the safety is not the answer.  Perhaps lowering at least the oil temp threshold would be nice, yet still safe.  Eliminating them is a bad idea. 

-TJ

Well Said,  TJ you can own one of my motors any day,  

 

[Rockwood]

If that is the case you are killing the bearings, LS already have a issue with oil aeration, now you are adding moisture into the oil,  Water Temp is not a huge deal i have hit 265 in Idaho with a downed fan,  but when oil is to cold or to hot, it will destroy components,  I would do a Improved racing Thermostat or a oil temp sensor,  I try not to leave camp til it hits around 150 and then idle to the dunes, then i am closer to the 200 range to burn out some of the moisture,  The dry sump and large sump oil system take a long time to heat up,  working on a oil heat to go in the factory oil level port,    

LS? This is a turbo Nissan with a full girdle and windage tray. 16 seasons now on a used JY motor. I think it’s fine. I’m running the factory A:W exchanger on the back of the block, so if the coolant is 180*, that’s the min temp it can be.

Either way, 180*F is pleeeeeenty of heat to evaporate water from the oil.  Min temp by the time I’m needing any boost is in the 170*F range. If it’s above 60* (which is most of the time), it’s between 190-200*F as that’s where my fans cycle. 

230*F is HG blowing territory on these motors, I’ll stay below that.

Also: how am I adding moisture to the oil at 180*F+? If the dew point is 180*, we’d all drown to death. :biggrin:

 

[J Alper]

LS? This is a turbo Nissan with a full girdle and windage tray. 16 seasons now on a used JY motor. I think it’s fine. I’m running the factory A:W exchanger on the back of the block, so if the coolant is 180*, that’s the min temp it can be.

Either way, 180*F is pleeeeeenty of heat to evaporate water from the oil.  Min temp by the time I’m needing any boost is in the 170*F range. If it’s above 60* (which is most of the time), it’s between 190-200*F as that’s where my fans cycle. 

230*F is HG blowing territory on these motors, I’ll stay below that.

Also: how am I adding moisture to the oil at 180*F+? If the dew point is 180*, we’d all drown to death. :biggrin:

You will collect condensation in engine oil, so warming up a engine i would think would be the best for any engine that is going to be pushed to its limits in most of the day,

Why do I have to be an engine builder to have my opinion on the temp restriction.  My group is not the type to leave camp, park at the hill and sit there for a long while shooting the chit watching cars.  We go to dune and dune hard as well as take turns leading.  When its my ups to lead if I ever get my Speed car, then what Im supposed to say hey guys give me 10 minutes notice so I can warm up my car.  Then if its really cold winter days/nights I cant get on the gas till temp is 170? Come on sir thats just lame.  In the desert it wont make a difference really but in Glamis hell no.  Like someone said so many people are bailing on the Speed car due to the issues.  Im doing my best to hang in there.  The latest and serious belt issues Speed had at the NORRA 1000 shows that they still have no answer to blowing belts.  And like you said many got the cars late in the season and not had a chance to really go through a full season to see how many belts they go through.  I want the car to be right as its the best designed car out there IMO....Dont get me started on the Speed Key!  But I am still hopeful the bugs are worked out by September/October cause if not I will unload my Speed deposit and have a different SXS.  

I guess for sand rail guys, most of the LS engines cost more than a SXS, so a lot of guys warm up a engine, and if you have a Fortin trans, it has its own warm up procedures. the Sign and Drive mentality for SXS's  

 

[Rockwood]

You will collect condensation in engine oil, so warming up a engine i would think would be the best for any engine that is going to be pushed to its limits in most of the day,

I guess for sand rail guys, most of the LS engines cost more than a SXS, so a lot of guys warm up a engine, and if you have a Fortin trans, it has its own warm up procedures. the Sign and Drive mentality for SXS's  

:biggrin:

What I'm saying is 180*F oil will evaporate water just fine (again, this would be the absolute minimum temp). Slower than 230*F oil, yes, but I doubt there will be any increase in water at this temp unless you're running super rich on ethanol or you have tons of blowby. Any water entering the crankcase via combustion will already, by rule, be vaporized, so it shouldn't collect as long as the oil is above dew point.  

If you look on Improved Racing's website, they have 185*/205*/215* stabilized temperature thermostats recommended for oil.  I'm personally not a fan of high-temp oil as the high-embeddability bearings that are good for offroad don't like high oil temps. 

The biggest problem with the lower temp oil would be short duration runs. If you're running a lot of short rips (5-10 minutes), then water buildup would definitely be an issue.  With the multi-hour treks we always end up with, I'm fine with it.  Hard to argue with 16 seasons on a used motor.

Either way, I was talking about coolant temps.  My assumption is my oil temps are relatively nearby, but definitely higher.  Road racing this same engine, I noticed about a 10-20* spread on water to oil temps, so oil would be in the 190-200* range.  You don't need to boil the water out, you just need to stop it from collecting.  If it's been sitting for a while, yes, wait for the oil to get up to temp before wooding it.

 

[Sand Shark]

I have a Speed car, I also have not had it in Glamis. It's been to Havasu, Utah and Plaster City. So not comments from me on this topic. Honestly, I have given up on GD.com and Speed talk. The juice isn't worth the squeeze. 

Hopefully you can take it to Glamis next season and let us know what you think. 

 

[South Bay]

Now that the Speed Key tuning has been approved (supposedly), we'll see if anyone takes theirs out and see what they can really do in the sand.  My guess, belts will be a problem . . .

 

[Punchdrunk Monkey]

Hopefully you can take it to Glamis next season and let us know what you think. 

Probably won't happen but who knows. I'll meet you in the desert anytime or Baja.

 

[dunenigma]

Now that the Speed Key tuning has been approved (supposedly), we'll see if anyone takes theirs out and see what they can really do in the sand.  My guess, belts will be a problem . . .

Ditto that, until we see proof the problem has been solved. 

 

[Big-Red]

It doesn’t take hardly any time at all to get to 170 degrees of oil temp. It hasn’t slowed me down one time yet. It’s 170 when you pull out of camp. Just drove to Walmart too.

 

[dunenigma]

Since this is a sand post I figured I would post this here. Has anyone figured out the best paddles and fronts setup for the speed? I was thinking an all aluminum wheel with 14.50 dune sports and 33 buffs. 

Think it's safe to say, no one dares putting sand tires on one just yet. Yikes .

 

[BaBaBouy]

On 5/7/2024 at 9:45 AM, Rockwood said:

You gots a purdy mouf.

 

[onanysunday]

You gots a purdy mouf.

Reminded me of this.

 

[MWB]

I have a Speed car, I also have not had it in Glamis. It's been to Havasu, Utah and Plaster City. So not comments from me on this topic. Honestly, I have given up on GD.com and Speed talk. The juice isn't worth the squeeze. 

Just wait till you come around the campfire then :lmao:

Seriously, looking forward to you guys coming out next season.

 

[tjZ06]

Now that the Speed Key tuning has been approved (supposedly), we'll see if anyone takes theirs out and see what they can really do in the sand.  My guess, belts will be a problem . . .

Wait, it got approved?  It'd be cool if Speed let me know that, or told me how to get my magic key and chit...

-TJ
 

 

[SLIM]

Not sure if the speed Key got approved or if it was just the E85 tune, or are they the same thing ?  The post I saw wasn't very clear if it also unlocked the Speed Key.   Can anyone confirm this ?

 

[Sand Shark]

Wait, it got approved?  It'd be cool if Speed let me know that, or told me how to get my magic key and chit...

-TJ
 

Speed Key got EPA and CARB approval last week.  He mentioned it in the video when they gave winner of the Bandit at NORRA his keys. 

I think you still need to own the car for 6 months before they hand it over.  They want to make sure the factory warranty is expired so if the motor goes boom or something breaks due to the Speed key it is on the aftermarket warranty or the owner.   

 

[WheresHotBoat]

Wait, it got approved?  It'd be cool if Speed let me know that, or told me how to get my magic key and chit...

-TJ
 

I believe they only got the EPA cert for now, so if you're in California, no dice yet.

For everyone else that doesn't need Carb, Speed is working on fine print, and a docusign form for the people who qualify for the Speed Key, which was or still is 6 months and 500 miles on the car.

I don't think they are contacting anyone yet since the paperwork, and probably legalities about warranty are complete.