Getting stuck is a problem

Okay here is what I got from you guys, don't drive alone, bring traction boards, have correct tire pressure, bring a shovel, use the starter in reverse to get unstuck, bring a kinetic toe strap, keep your momentum up, don't park on an incline, watch where you're going, don't get stuck in the first place, and if all this advice doesn't help me I am in the wrong sport :-)
 
twister said:
Thank you for the starter and reverse idea, I am looking for whatever tips I can get . From the picture I had just jacked up the car to put the wheels on and it is sitting a little bit higher than normal but I do need to learn how to set the thing up properly. If I back the spring preload off it handles the stuttery chopped type stuff just wonderfully but it doesn't do as well at the bottom of a dune. Seems like sort of a trade-off. Any thoughts?
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This is what flutter stacks, bypasses and dual rate spring setups are invented for.
 
One last question, on a truck that's stuck in the sand if I lower the tire pressure down to single digits it will climb out of just about any hole. Will the same thing work for a sand rail? Can I reduce the pressure to about 4 PSI , let it crawl out of the hole and fill it back up with air. Anybody have any experience with this?
 
twister said:
One last question, on a truck that's stuck in the sand if I lower the tire pressure down to single digits it will climb out of just about any hole. Will the same thing work for a sand rail? Can I reduce the pressure to about 4 PSI , let it crawl out of the hole and fill it back up with air. Anybody have any experience with this?
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Absofreakinglutely!! But only if they are beadlocked. I loved my car better this weekend when I dropped my psi to like 7 on 35s! Probably not the best for the trans but man does it smooth out quite a bit. Was at like 15psi and thought I liked that! Those chatter bumps will rattle my teeth out. Yes, yes I know go through the dunes but not when I'm alone and with my wife and kids. We'll stick to the road while the rest of the fams show up.
 
Oh, and what size paddle are you running? With your power, bigger paddles is always best and never get stuck in my opinion. I had started out on 33 Blasters but got stuck twice and went up to 35s on a stock LS.
 
twister said:
One last question, on a truck that's stuck in the sand if I lower the tire pressure down to single digits it will climb out of just about any hole. Will the same thing work for a sand rail? Can I reduce the pressure to about 4 PSI , let it crawl out of the hole and fill it back up with air. Anybody have any experience with this?
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When you lower the pressure TOO much, you run the risk of popping the tire off the rim.

Now you have an even Bigger problem, besides being stuck!!!

Single digits is a BAD idea without headlocks.
 
Chingon619 said:
Oh, and what size paddle are you running? With your power, bigger paddles is always best and never get stuck in my opinion. I had started out on 33 Blasters but got stuck twice and went up to 35s on a stock LS.
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It does seem logical that 33s will get stuck more easily than 35s, but I do like my gearing and don't want to change the trans. Would 35 on really wide rims get stuck less easily?
 
twister said:
It does seem logical that 33s will get stuck more easily than 35s, but I do like my gearing and don't want to change the trans. Would 35 on really wide rims get stuck less easily?
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I assume 35.5 goes on a 12-in rim? And I noticed everybody with the horsepower is running them. This post probably should be in the sandrail section?
 
twister said:
It does seem logical that 33s will get stuck more easily than 35s, but I do like my gearing and don't want to change the trans. Would 35 on really wide rims get stuck less easily?
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How does a larger tire diameter (35" vs 33") equate to getting stuck less?
 
Dockmaster said:
How does a larger tire diameter (35" vs 33") equate to getting stuck less?
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I am not sure the physics of it, but 37-in tires on my pickup truck absolutely get stuck less easily than the 35 inch I had on it and so I'm assuming the same would be true on a paddle tire?
 
larger tire = more surface area

You can also change the paddle cut more/less aggressive and more/less actual paddles

and forget about caring those stupid sand boards, cuz when you use them you have to then retrieve them and probably get stuck again...
 
Always stop on flat ground or facing downhill, you will never get stuck if you do that.
 
twister said:
I assume 35.5 goes on a 12-in rim? And I noticed everybody with the horsepower is running them. This post probably should be in the sandrail section?
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What trans do you have? I would assume it's a 2d but could be wrong. I bet you wouldn't notice much "gearing" change if you went up a size in paddles. I went from 33 sand Blasters to 35 Extremes. Which actually are a 33" diameter with a measuring tape. Anything over 12psi in 33s with an LS = wheel spin, Guaranteed. Good luck!
 
And not sure who mentioned it, probably has less to due with getting stuck but yea, that ride height in the pic looks oddly high.
 
rivermobster said:
When you lower the pressure TOO much, you run the risk of popping the tire off the rim.

Now you have an even Bigger problem, besides being stuck!!!

Single digits is a BAD idea without headlocks.
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Duning, yes.

Driving out of a hole then immediately inflating, I doubt you could go too low short of no air.

For the record: the wife’s X3 has run 7-8psi in all 4 tires for 8 years now. No beadlocks.
 
Rockwood said:
Duning, yes.

Driving out of a hole then immediately inflating, I doubt you could go too low short of no air.

For the record: the wife’s X3 has run 7-8psi in all 4 tires for 8 years now. No beadlocks.
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Duning? Or getting out of holes?

😁
 
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