Gen 4 Funco upgrade or new car

 Just realized I tried to write r e t a r d e d but it put challenged instead.  Was talking about timing and not this definition.

re·tard·ed


/rəˈtärdəd/



 





adjective
 








  1. OFFENSIVE•DATED
    less advanced in mental, physical, or social development than is usual for one's age.









    • OFFENSIVE
      very foolish or stupid.






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Looking good.  The exhaust was definitely corking things up.  I gained a few more going from stock turbine outlet diameter all the way to tapering out to 1" over, but this is on al older internal wastegate T25 exhaust housing.  Most of the GT/GTX series housings have a taper built in.  If yours doesn't, it's worth a few to taper it out on the exhaust tubing.  

Newer style:

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onanysunday said:
This was the car I bought. Popped up on GD.Com and I bought it over the phone. Believe I paid $24k. Drove from Phoenix just past Banning and Beaumont to pick it up. Drove straight to the dunes. Played with it all night and it was not running right. Worked until the sun came up and finally found it was a ground wire issue. Hauled ass and I ran a tank of gas through it. Colors really were not my deal and I had done so much work to my car. Also felt my v6 had more torque vs the subie. Brought it home and sold it in one hour on GD.Com for $29k. Kept the better set of rear paddles and the GPS which is still on my car. I had actually placed this super long ad on the forum for my car. Glad I kept it. Certainly have an attachment to it.

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My friend Andy owns this car currently.  He took out the Subi motor and is running a Honda turbo motor with a new trans.  Car is currently getting a complete makeover.  

 
onanysunday said:
Talking to our tuner at the shop the mileage takes a pretty good hit but power is not a huge difference between 50% and 80%. I think we will give it a squeeze with 50. 
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Somewhat late to the party but I am kinda curious to see what fuel mixture you settled on.  

 
BUFF said:
Subaru or Honda are a duners motor for this car, depending on your driving style. To bad you decided not to build a new car. Motor swap and your good to  :super:
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When he is done it will look like a newer car. 

 
So this has been bugging me. Decided to call a few of the well know engine builders.  One told me he did not think it could be as low as 15%. He felt it was much higher. Then I talked to Redline. They have in house an engine dyno, hub dyno, and chassis dyno. They said in sand cars the general rule of thumb is a 35% loss with gearbox and CVs. We did not go into different HP levels and of course % of loss will be less at 1000 HP vs 500HP. Take it for what its worth. I do know that any street car that hits 400+ wheel horsepower on our Mustang dyno hauls ass. 

 
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onanysunday said:
So this has been bugging me. Decided to call a few of the well know engine builders.  One told me he did not think it could be as low as 15%. He felt it was much higher. Then I talked to Redline. They have in house an engine dyno, hub dyno, and chassis dyno. They said in sand cars the general rule of thumb is a 35% loss with gearbox and CVs. We did not go into different HP levels and of course % of loss will be less at 1000 HP vs 500HP. Take it for what its worth. I do know that any street car that hits 400+ wheel horsepower on our Mustang dyno hauls ass. 
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I “gained” almost 100whp (370 to 462) going from a Mustang dyno to a 248c. Friend with the same car ran 4mph slower, but made 475whp on a Dynapack. 

Fact is: your chit ripped decently before, and now you make 33%+ more power. Should be nice and “challenged” amounts of power now.  :biggrin:

 
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Heat shields all now upgraded with air gap and double wall. Thinking my alternator wire rerouted should last more than 17 hours this time.Jonesin to tear this thing down and powder coat all of it. A lot of this car has been rattle canned over the years and definitely getting raggedy from all the miles I put on it. Bummer I have to park it and wait 5 months to go drive it. One big job left this summer is pull the axles and CVS out. Take a look at the 934s with two seasons on them now. 26° on one side and 27° on the other. And replace those darn microstub bearings. See if maybe they will last longer if I re-torque them correctly. That last trip I put in my spare alternator not knowing exactly what the problem was. This one looks like it came out of a swamp. But does work well.

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onanysunday said:
Heat shields all now upgraded with air gap and double wall. Thinking my alternator wire rerouted should last more than 17 hours this time.Jonesin to tear this thing down and powder coat all of it. A lot of this car has been rattle canned over the years and definitely getting raggedy from all the miles I put on it. Bummer I have to park it and wait 5 months to go drive it. One big job left this summer is pull the axles and CVS out. Take a look at the 934s with two seasons on them now. 26° on one side and 27° on the other. And replace those darn microstub bearings. See if maybe they will last longer if I re-torque them correctly. That last trip I put in my spare alternator not knowing exactly what the problem was. This one looks like it came out of a swamp. But does work well.

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27 degrees ? :classic_blink:

 
Maybe I am remembering wrong. Let me measure it

 
So I was wrong. We had this discussion when I built my trailing arms. We knew it was just a pinch over what is recommended. Alper had said he has seen cars run with a lot more angle. Once I have it apart later in the summer I'll post up some pics. Of the CVS that is.

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onanysunday said:
So I was wrong. We had this discussion when I built my trailing arms. We knew it was just a pinch over what is recommended. Alper had said he has seen cars run with a lot more angle. Once I have it apart later in the summer I'll post up some pics. Of the CVS that is.

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Not as bad, I am curious to see how the CV joints held up. I have seen people get away with 25* but my theory is take an inch or two out of your travel odds are you will not be able to tell while driving but your CVs will.

 
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