Gen 4 Funco upgrade or new car

[onanysunday]

is that a 3.0?  that looks like a big turbo for that.........

Whatever Mike at Turbos Direct sold me. I will have to look at the numbers. 

 

[onanysunday]

BTW That mess and shielding for the wire going to the alternator has a story. Last week we went to take off for a ride in the morning and my radio would not transmit. Look down and my alternator is not charging. 300 feet from pad 3 and had to jump my car to drive it back.  All the heat from 17 years of use had melted the plug. Put on my spare alternator and fixed the wire. Two hours later at approx. 11am we took off for the first ride of the day. Another project to fix. lol. Seems like everything wanted to break last trip. 

 

[John@Outfront]

Whatever Mike at Turbos Direct sold me. I will have to look at the numbers. 

You want better power you could start by having a gen 2 GTX series turbo or the g550/660 turbo and it would give you so much more instant response it will feel like a new car. They aren’t cheap but worth every penny. Ditch the t4 exhaust housing. You woul be amazed

 

[Rockwood]

is that a 3.0?  that looks like a big turbo for that.........

3.5L. They make lots of exhaust energy though, so spool generally isn’t bad. 

 

[onanysunday]

You want better power you could start by having a gen 2 GTX series turbo or the g550/660 turbo and it would give you so much more instant response it will feel like a new car. They aren’t cheap but worth every penny. Ditch the t4 exhaust housing. You woul be amazed

We will see what it does with this turbo. Already hemorrhaging money on this thing. Built a heat shield today to protect that alternator wire. It won't burn up again. I think I'm going to add a second plate about an eighth to a quarter inch away with an air gap between it. Now I can fix the wire.This thing also developed what felt like a lean pop this last trip. Just put in fresh plugs. I also installed a virtually new a1000 fuel pump. The original was 17 years old. Still working but figured I might as well put the new one in. It had only been run to dyno a car and then pulled off. I think I'm going to add a second plate to both my other heat shields with an air gap between and get rid of the heat barrier that has deteriorated over time. Called the station at 91st and Olive today and they confirm what I figured. The flex fuel with 50/50 mix comes with 87 octane as the gasoline portion. Last trip I had mixed it with 91. So I have about 20 gallons I have to give away. My normal Chevron has not had it for a couple weeks. They told me it is not a supply issue but a driver issue getting it delivered. Seems strange.

 

[J Alper]

S4 will handle the HP, 

I have some S4 outlast S4D in the same car same driver, same motor, 

Couple ways with the single turbo, one is E85 with this you dont need a inner cooler, it is better to have one but do not need one, 

Everyone wants straight pump gas, not going to happen, you sneeze and can get detonation, 

Pump gas options would be a Meth Inj, or mix in some race fuel to make a true 93-96 octane, 

Compression can be your friend, no one like a lazy friend, and that is what low compression feels like, I would not go below 9.7-1 comp

A great motor without breaking the bank, would be a 402 or a 416,  Inconell Ex, Valves, would use a Great lifter, and a Great spring, for a Turbo, i only use a Johnson lifter and a PAC Spring, keep the Bearings on a looser level and A Hi-Volume pump, 

I have had many motor with a Kennedy Dual 9'' with no issues, The biggest lesson i have learned on turbo motors is #1 use a great injector, do not cheap out, #2 Make sure the bearing clearance is correct, #3 control the valve train, #4 dont use a cheap fuel pump, 

 

[onanysunday]

I ordered a Mac boost controller for $38 from Amazon. AEM sells the same part for $101 with a different sticker on it. 

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-2400-Boost-Control-Solenoid/dp/B0012USLLC/ref=asc_df_B0012USLLC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142287749&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17611803601916431907&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030007&hvtargid=pla-492435071411&psc=1

Holley puts their sticker on it and sells for $135

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/modules_and_sensors/boost_control/parts/557-200?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping+-+Holley+EFI+-+Brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=7848552874&hsa_cam=1753174007&hsa_grp=126092208368&hsa_ad=512446955406&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-1396151090611&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=CjwKCAjw9LSSBhBsEiwAKtf0n8xosCPaiDatp9X85UzH36XgKKIQHrrZ2p91Ocn7zM0UJljBKkyWtxoCGG8QAvD_BwE

 

[onanysunday]

My turbo drain line has always been an issue. Too steep of an angle and does not drain properly. Wants to push oil past the seal and smoke. I had built a reservoir up top at one point but still obviously not enough volume. Going to give this one more crack and try to make it mechanically drain. Otherwise it will be a $440 turbo werks 10,000 hour scavenge pump.

 

[ChasingSand]

My turbo drain line has always been an issue. Too steep of an angle and does not drain properly. Wants to push oil past the seal and smoke. I had built a reservoir up top at one point but still obviously not enough volume. Going to give this one more crack and try to make it mechanically drain. Otherwise it will be a $440 turbo werks 10,000 hour scavenge pump.

View attachment 29674

View attachment 29675

Can you try and mount the drain lower on the block to help create a vacuum?

 

[onanysunday]

Can you try and mount the drain lower on the block to help create a vacuum?

Well there is already a hole in the side of the girdle where it is. I guess I could go a little lower and still stay above the oil level.It could be getting windage up where it is at as well. I think for now I will try the same spot with a larger tube coming from the turbo. Then set it up so I can drill the end out and drill the same hole to go to a dash 12 from the current dash 10.

 

[onanysunday]

Made some good progress today. I machined the upper piece out of some solid steel rod. I'm guessing four times the capacity of what I had before. Probably measure it just for grins.

 

[Funco4JM]

Thats a big difference in gravity feed. Shouldn't have any issues now. Are you going to weld an AN Bung to the downpipe and use a hose to connect them?

 

[onanysunday]

Thats a big difference in gravity feed. Shouldn't have any issues now. Are you going to weld an AN Bung to the downpipe and use a hose to connect them? 

I cut off the steel fitting from the old drain and then machined it. Then machined a ring so it all pressed together. Easy to weld it and get it exactly perfect. Put in a new piece of braided hose and kept it at one inch long. Just enough to flex a little bit. I'm curious about everything and couldn't help myself. Had to measure the volume from the old drain to the new drain. Old one was 75 mL and the new one is 180 ml. So double the volume. Hopefully this will do the trick.

 

[Rockwood]

That boost controller will make boost response a different animal unless you already have something similar. Can tune the response to like it is now with a ramp, or fill in some of the transition for much quicker response. 

 

[Bobalos]

 have sat and thought about the best, cleanest way to do things a lot on my own car, like lots of hours and the more you think, the cleaner it gets, but whos going to pay for that right?

It is, just putting mine back together now. The nice part is getting to finally make all the finishing touches just like you want. The hardest part of the job is the thinking about it before you start.

When I was designing the headers for my BBC turbo setup I spent hours in the garage laying on the floor staring @ it all & holding up bends & pieces of heater duct to figure out exactly what I wanted to do.  Once the train left the station it picked up steam & I was SUPER happy with the results.  7 P's though right.... 

But....... as John pointed out, aint no-one gonna pay for that.....  LOL

 

[onanysunday]

That boost controller will make boost response a different animal unless you already have something similar. Can tune the response to like it is now with a ramp, or fill in some of the transition for much quicker response. 

It has one on it now. Just not working. Either a setting or the controller not working. Car goes on the dyno next Saturday.

 

[Rockwood]

It has one on it now. Just not working. Either a setting or the controller not working. Car goes on the dyno next Saturday.

Word.  You know what to expect then.  Curious how well it works, I have a mechanical one right now, but would be nice to be able to adjust on the fly for more temporary boost at the drags.

 

[ChasingSand]

It has one on it now. Just not working. Either a setting or the controller not working. Car goes on the dyno next Saturday.

If I am running low boost (7-8 LBS) is a boost controller necessary?  I am reading conflicting Info on the innerwebs. 

Not sure if one would help or really do nothing in case.

 

[onanysunday]

If I am running low boost (7-8 LBS) is a boost controller necessary?  I am reading conflicting Info on the innerwebs. 

Not sure if one would help or really do nothing in case.

You are on spring only which is fine. A controller needs an output from the ecu to run it. Pulse width modulation output. All it does is put pressure on the back side of the wastegate to keep it shut then open for more boost. At least that is the way I understand it. Very simple design.  Also stops the creep you get from just the spring. 

 

[Rockwood]

If I am running low boost (7-8 LBS) is a boost controller necessary?  I am reading conflicting Info on the innerwebs. 

Not sure if one would help or really do nothing in case.

Helps the boost ramp become sharper.  With the wastegate only, you're pressurizing the dome on the wastegate all the time.  So when it's at 2psi, you're putting 2psi of pressure on the spring and partially opening the wastegate.  This dulls boost response a little since a spring is linear and is fully open at whatever the spring pressure is.  The reality is slightly different, but basically your 7lb spring is opening the wastegate halfway at 3.5psi. 

With a boost controller, it won't send ANY boost "signal" to the wastegate until near target.  So if you set the "balance" or "gain" (or whatever the controller says) to sharper, your wastegate won't see any boost until you're nearly there.  This can cause some spiking/overshoot, so you have to fiddle with it, but the end result is you'll get better boost response from off throttle to on with one.

^ From Turbosmart, but this picture replaces my 1,000 words above. :biggrin: