Bel Ray Molylube Anti-Seize CV Joint Grease Compound

They told me smaller quantities are hard to get but they can still get the bulk. Said they should never run out. Guy that mixes for them has a specific machine just for this mix only. 
I hope that is true but that goes against what others are saying about the plant that makes it burning down?

 
I hope that is true but that goes against what others are saying about the plant that makes it burning down?
:dunno:

Just quoting what I heard. You can always call Denny at Foddrill's. Very stand up guy whenever I have dealt with them.

 
This is 860 miles with the 164 grease. This is the upper. Of course more heat at the trans side and the grease is migrating away from the CV. I could actually see the shine on one of the balls.

20210926_163230.jpg

 
This is the outer. Still looks pretty good. Less heat and the grease stays in the CV better. 

20210926_161404.jpg

 
This is the outer. Still looks pretty good. Less heat and the grease stays in the CV better. 

View attachment 14937
Buddy and I were talking about this since he has a similar problem but I don’t despite my CVs being consistently hotter (smaller trans, more aggressive angles on my part). He decided to start using the small boot with flange since we think the overboot lets the grease sling out to the edge of the CV like your trans side, but the flange type doesn’t allow centrifugal force to sling it out of the CV. Both of his look like your trans side, both of mine look like your wheel side.

Not sure if this will end in tears, but we shall see. 

 
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Buddy and I were talking about this since he has a similar problem but I don’t despite my CVs being consistently hotter (smaller trans, more aggressive angles on my part). He decided to start using the small boot with flange since we think the overboot lets the grease sling out to the edge of the CV like your trans side, but the flange type doesn’t allow centrifugal force to sling it out of the CV. Both of his look like your trans side, both of mine look like your wheel side.

Not sure if this will end in tears, but we shall see. 
So the small boot didn’t help? I just switched to the small boot as the same problem running the large boot “over the bolts/cv” required a messy pullback to retorque. But wul see. Running the 164 this season on a 2d 10,000 hp Subaru and will see how she does.

mainly excited about smashing that go pedal, duning and drinking beers/cocktails with friends and family. 
 

 
So the small boot didn’t help? I just switched to the small boot as the same problem running the large boot “over the bolts/cv” required a messy pullback to retorque. But wul see. Running the 164 this season on a 2d 10,000 hp Subaru and will see how she does.

mainly excited about smashing that go pedal, duning and drinking beers/cocktails with friends and family. 
It appears to help mine. Buddy runs over boots, I run flange/small boots, mine stays greased, buddies ends up around the bolts. 

He’s gonna switch to flanges to see if it helps. I’ll report back if it does. 

 
It appears to help mine. Buddy runs over boots, I run flange/small boots, mine stays greased, buddies ends up around the bolts. 

He’s gonna switch to flanges to see if it helps. I’ll report back if it does. 
🤦🏻‍♂️As in I read that wrong. I thought u wrote ur buddy with the small boot spun out and u with the over boot stayed. My fault thanx. Happy to hear “maybe” I solved  two problems with one solution running the small boots  

1.  Able to retorque without greasy a$$ mess

2. Keeps my “thin” 164 grease in my fancy Kartek fortin 930 stars lol. 

but wait……what grease do we use. FYI I’m kidding about the grease. I’m totally fine. @L.R.S.has got my back. Lol

 
Not a fan of the small boots on 934 CV's.  Sure the bolts are exposed but any car I've prepped with them also slings CV grease everywhere.  The CV grease works its way through the bolt holes or in between the flange and CV body.  Yeah yeah, I know it's not a problem for 'you' and your boots don't sling grease, just saying what I've seen on numerous cars I've prepped.  @tjZ06 Potter was slinging so much CV grease from the small flange boots we swapped them out for the Bates over-boot.  Problem solved.

I have a double boot system on my car, small inner rubber boot and large leather outer boot.  The small boot definitely keeps the grease in the CV better but I can't get even a half a season without the small boot tearing.  DGAF, I keep running them.

As far as what CV grease to use- I speak from experience in my 10 years of prepping two Class 1 Unlimited cars that ran 250 to 1000 mile races.  We used Swepco Moly 101 and BelRay.  We didn't mix it by hand or buy it premixed like Foddrill sells.  I packed the CV using a needle tip with Swepco then put a layer of BelRay using the caulking tube over that.  Definitely NOT a 50/50 mix, probably closer to 75/25.  I do the same thing on my personal car and every single car I prep.  I've only ever had one client request that I use Elite grease but that's because he had a case of it in his trailer.  I have no issues with Cat Desert Gold or Elite, or whatever it's called now if that' you preferred brand.  But if Kartek and McKenzie's don't carry it, that means race teams aren't using it.  Race teams use what they know works, not what they can get for half the price of BelRay.   

That being said, I'm calling Foddrill tomorrow to order some.

 
I have run the mini 934 boot on my car for years. If you clamp the boot on before you bolt down the cv you will cut the boot. You won't cut the boot with every bolt or even every boot and it won't seem like you did till you run it some. Also you have to leave one bolt out just to get the clamp started. It's highly likely you will cut or weeken the boot there. The only reason I run them is a lack of space on my outer cv's. Also replace them every season, they don't hold up beyond that very well and will cost you more in grease for one cv the to replace all 4. They are a PITA and I look forward to never using them after this season. 

 
I have 930's and have run the smaller boot with a flange on the trans side for years just for the reasons stated above - keeping the grease in the CV, using less grease over time as it doesn't have as much volume in the boot and I can keep an eye on the bolts that I mark with a paint marker.  Over time I just figured out that I didn't need to cover my bolts in a greasy mess and I could keep the grease more concentrated where it was needed.

Good to hear Foddrill's has a line on grease.

 
Not a fan of the small boots on 934 CV's.  Sure the bolts are exposed but any car I've prepped with them also slings CV grease everywhere.  The CV grease works its way through the bolt holes or in between the flange and CV body.  Yeah yeah, I know it's not a problem for 'you' and your boots don't sling grease, just saying what I've seen on numerous cars I've prepped.  @tjZ06 Potter was slinging so much CV grease from the small flange boots we swapped them out for the Bates over-boot.  Problem solved.

I have a double boot system on my car, small inner rubber boot and large leather outer boot.  The small boot definitely keeps the grease in the CV better but I can't get even a half a season without the small boot tearing.  DGAF, I keep running them.

As far as what CV grease to use- I speak from experience in my 10 years of prepping two Class 1 Unlimited cars that ran 250 to 1000 mile races.  We used Swepco Moly 101 and BelRay.  We didn't mix it by hand or buy it premixed like Foddrill sells.  I packed the CV using a needle tip with Swepco then put a layer of BelRay using the caulking tube over that.  Definitely NOT a 50/50 mix, probably closer to 75/25.  I do the same thing on my personal car and every single car I prep.  I've only ever had one client request that I use Elite grease but that's because he had a case of it in his trailer.  I have no issues with Cat Desert Gold or Elite, or whatever it's called now if that' you preferred brand.  But if Kartek and McKenzie's don't carry it, that means race teams aren't using it.  Race teams use what they know works, not what they can get for half the price of BelRay.   

That being said, I'm calling Foddrill tomorrow to order some.
Good info. I only went to the small boots because I converted 930 Funco arms to 934. Very tight fit and over boots would have been to snug. So far working out well.

 
Not a fan of the small boots on 934 CV's.  Sure the bolts are exposed but any car I've prepped with them also slings CV grease everywhere.  The CV grease works its way through the bolt holes or in between the flange and CV body.  Yeah yeah, I know it's not a problem for 'you' and your boots don't sling grease, just saying what I've seen on numerous cars I've prepped.  @tjZ06 Potter was slinging so much CV grease from the small flange boots we swapped them out for the Bates over-boot.  Problem solved.

I have a double boot system on my car, small inner rubber boot and large leather outer boot.  The small boot definitely keeps the grease in the CV better but I can't get even a half a season without the small boot tearing.  DGAF, I keep running them.

As far as what CV grease to use- I speak from experience in my 10 years of prepping two Class 1 Unlimited cars that ran 250 to 1000 mile races.  We used Swepco Moly 101 and BelRay.  We didn't mix it by hand or buy it premixed like Foddrill sells.  I packed the CV using a needle tip with Swepco then put a layer of BelRay using the caulking tube over that.  Definitely NOT a 50/50 mix, probably closer to 75/25.  I do the same thing on my personal car and every single car I prep.  I've only ever had one client request that I use Elite grease but that's because he had a case of it in his trailer.  I have no issues with Cat Desert Gold or Elite, or whatever it's called now if that' you preferred brand.  But if Kartek and McKenzie's don't carry it, that means race teams aren't using it.  Race teams use what they know works, not what they can get for half the price of BelRay.   

That being said, I'm calling Foddrill tomorrow to order some.
So are you saying you use 75% Bel Ray and 25% Swepco 101 or 25% Bel Ray and 75% Swepco 101?

 
So are you saying you use 75% Bel Ray and 25% Swepco 101 or 25% Bel Ray and 75% Swepco 101?
75 Swepco and 25 BelRay, but it's not an exact science.

Also, just got off the phone with Foddrills and I ordered 6 caulking tubes of BelRay and 4 tubes of their 50/50 Swepco BelRay mix. I have plenty of Swepco 101 so that many tubes of BelRay should get me through this season. 

 
L.R.S. You do realize that you are better off buying just the BelRay @ $32.00 tube instead of the 50/50 at $29.00.

 
on another note i know its not supposed to be in this thread but i was in Instagram earlier and Gear One was advertising their cvs 934 and 930 said they had stock. I remember reading somewhere people having a hard time getting stars the stuff they were advertising were rem polished

 
on another note i know its not supposed to be in this thread but i was in Instagram earlier and Gear One was advertising their cvs 934 and 930 said they had stock. I remember reading somewhere people having a hard time getting stars the stuff they were advertising were rem polished
YES,

Just ordered a set of 934's from @Gear one.

 
on another note i know its not supposed to be in this thread but i was in Instagram earlier and Gear One was advertising their cvs 934 and 930 said they had stock. I remember reading somewhere people having a hard time getting stars the stuff they were advertising were rem polished
I talked to @parker@gearone at the show and they have GKN CVs that have been cryo-treated on the shelf and ready to go. I'm ordering four for my car this week. 

 
I talked to @parker@gearone at the show and they have GKN CVs that have been cryo-treated on the shelf and ready to go. I'm ordering four for my car this week. 
I was gonna text you today what 934 you recommend. I’ve read in here that EMPI’s are fine and then I stumbled across the gear one gkn. Thanks for the post. 

 
I was gonna text you today what 934 you recommend. I’ve read in here that EMPI’s are fine and then I stumbled across the gear one gkn. Thanks for the post. 
We ran the 934 35 spline GKN off the shelf from Kartek on the Class 1 cars.  I run the GKN but I update to the Fortin 300m star and chromoly cage.  I'll run the straight GKN from Gear One this season.  I've also heard the EMPI are fine and I've even put a set on a really big HP car in Glamis because that's what my buddy had for spares.  The problem is no manufacturer stamps their CV with their name so it's hard to tell what it is.  RCV's are identifiable because they have that brown coating on the cage and star, Fortin has the spline count stamped on their stars, and I think the EMPI have a more square hole in their cages.  

 
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