AEM ECU flooding engine

[LtPyro]

Agree, I think there is some other issue and do not believe the aem is causing it imo.

So hopefully the replacement injectors point this out.  Since his AEM works in my car with the OEM injectors I have I think replacing injectors might do the trick.  Not sure why another "OEM" injector would not run under OEM specs, but hey whatever fixes it.

 

[Funco 4]

Try Changing the coils on those two cylinders.  We have had an engine run perfect with no boost.  When boosted would not fire.  Also make sure spark plug gap is around .025 -.028.  The Map sensor with stock ecm needs a "missing link" or a Comptech module which wires into harness if under boost.

 

[LtPyro]

Try Changing the coils on those two cylinders.  We have had an engine run perfect with no boost.  When boosted would not fire.  Also make sure spark plug gap is around .025 -.028.  The Map sensor with stock ecm needs a "missing link" or a Comptech module which wires into harness if under boost.

I dont think the stock ECU "needs" a missing link to run, we've been running this car for two years with boost on the stock ECU.  Probably would run better with maybe.

Not sure what changing the coils would achieve since the injectors are flooding before the engine is turned over.  But hey, at this point I'll suggest he try anything lol. 

 

[Funco 4]

If the engine is flooding just by running the fuel pump then the injectors must be bad or dirty or some weird wiring problem.  The stock honda injectors can handle 110 psi without leaking. This is rare to handle that kind of psi in the injector world, but the honda's will.  Try disconnecting the wire plugs from the  two injectors and see if it is still flooding the engine.  The problem you are having makes no sense.  What codes are you getting off the stock ECM.  You must have someway to clip the voltage from the map sensor under boost or you would get map sensor codes off the obdII.  A missing link will send the boost pressure into the air instead of to the map sensor.  The comptech module clips the voltage so the ecm does not see the boost. (The stock ECM can't handle boost and will throw a code).

 

[LtPyro]

If the engine is flooding just by running the fuel pump then the injectors must be bad or dirty or some weird wiring problem.  The stock honda injectors can handle 110 psi without leaking. This is rare to handle that kind of psi in the injector world, but the honda's will.  Try disconnecting the wire plugs from the  two injectors and see if it is still flooding the engine.  The problem you are having makes no sense.  What codes are you getting off the stock ECM.  You must have someway to clip the voltage from the map sensor under boost or you would get map sensor codes off the obdII.  A missing link will send the boost pressure into the air instead of to the map sensor.  The comptech module clips the voltage so the ecm does not see the boost. (The stock ECM can't handle boost and will throw a code).

So according to my not so very scientific process and playing around with my car...  I found that the stock ECU will handle boost up to about 10PSI (10PSI is limited by the MAP sensor according to the AEM software).  Now when I say handles boost, I use that term lightly.  The car runs and runs ok with some small annoyances.  For example there is an RPM range lower in the RPMs that the stock ECU really doesn't like the boost and seems to pull a lot of power out of the car.  Fortunately its a small range and you are not in that range much.  It was annoying enough to prompt me to get the AEM just to get rid of that lack of power.  The canned tune on the AEM, while not perfect for everyone's application, is way better than a stock ECU.

If the missing link dumps boost pressure into atmosphere instead of routing it to the MAP sensor, than wouldn't the MAP only ever see at max 1 bar (static pressure) and there fore not dump enough fuel into the engine at any boost levels?  Or am I totally thinking of that wrong?  Its early and my brain is still asleep....

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

So according to my not so very scientific process and playing around with my car...  I found that the stock ECU will handle boost up to about 10PSI (10PSI is limited by the MAP sensor according to the AEM software).  Now when I say handles boost, I use that term lightly.  The car runs and runs ok with some small annoyances.  For example there is an RPM range lower in the RPMs that the stock ECU really doesn't like the boost and seems to pull a lot of power out of the car.  Fortunately its a small range and you are not in that range much.  It was annoying enough to prompt me to get the AEM just to get rid of that lack of power.  The canned tune on the AEM, while not perfect for everyone's application, is way better than a stock ECU.

If the missing link dumps boost pressure into atmosphere instead of routing it to the MAP sensor, than wouldn't the MAP only ever see at max 1 bar (static pressure) and there fore not dump enough fuel into the engine at any boost levels?  Or am I totally thinking of that wrong?  Its early and my brain is still asleep....

The stock ECU will not correct for boost.  Hence, 1 bar AMP, and the need for FMU, Missing link, and some ration of race fuel.

 

[LtPyro]

The stock ECU will not correct for boost.  Hence, 1 bar AMP, and the need for FMU, Missing link, and some ration of race fuel.

I didn't say it would correct for it, just simply that it runs ok up to 10psi.  I'm not going to spend the money at this point for a FMU or missing link so I'm not sure how much better it would run with those vs without.  But I do agree that it will run better.  I wouldn't recommend to anyone that running a turbo on a stock ECU at 10psi without one for a permanent solution, but if you did for a short time while upgrading to AEM then your car would run fine in the mean time.

 

[LtPyro]

Ok so we are kind of stumped on this one.  Here is a video showing the issue when the AEM ECU is plugged in.  Again, when using the stock ECU the car runs normal.


Video.mov

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

Send the ecu back to AEM.

 

[LtPyro]

Send the ecu back to AEM.

He called AEM and they were no help.  He did not ask about returning it.  The AEM also runs fine in my car with the same engine.

 

[LtPyro]

Send the ecu back to AEM.

I'll suggest it but I think we bought them too long ago.  They sat for a while before we tried to install them.  

Maybe they can at least test it?

 

[ChasingSand]

I would give Ericks racing out of Buena Park call tomorrow. He is a AEM/Honda guru and might be able to help. 

 

[MHP]

I don't think it is "normal" to have a negative engine load reading.

 

[Rockwood]

Uh. That’s not good for the motor. Lol. 

Unless you have the wrong injector type (high/low impedance), exchange it for another. Something ain’t right, lol. 

 

[LegitDuner]

Change the oil before you run that engine again.. 

Start swapping parts from the engine that runs to the problem motor. Sensors, wiring harness, etc. I only say that because it sounds like you're determined to do it yourself. Willing to bet it's a crossed/pinched wire in the end. 

 

[r3meyer]

Does this car have a manual fuel pressure regulator?  Do you have spark at each hole?

Also running it in that condition is a great way to destroy that motor.  It will wash out your rings.

 

[LtPyro]

I would give Ericks racing out of Buena Park call tomorrow. He is a AEM/Honda guru and might be able to help. 

View attachment 16459

Thanks for this, I'll give him a call today.

I don't think it is "normal" to have a negative engine load reading.

At idle a normal engine would pull vacuum.  That's how it pulls air into it.  From what I know of Hondas normal idle vacuum is about 22 inches.  I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Uh. That’s not good for the motor. Lol. 

Unless you have the wrong injector type (high/low impedance), exchange it for another. Something ain’t right, lol. 

So I gave my dad a set of injectors to replace his.  They are used but at least its something.  He ordered a new set of o-rings for them and is going to try them.  After that he might try a new set.  The set he is running now came with the car and work with the stock ECU.

Change the oil before you run that engine again.. 

Start swapping parts from the engine that runs to the problem motor. Sensors, wiring harness, etc. I only say that because it sounds like you're determined to do it yourself. Willing to bet it's a crossed/pinched wire in the end. 

Not going to swap part from my working to car to his, mostly because he live in Lake Havasu and I live in Anaheim.  I might send him my AEM just to verify that the two ECUs are working the same since they both run my car the same.  Ya we like to work on our own cars.  One it's fun, two you get learn how everything on it works, and three its cheaper in the long run.    

 

[LtPyro]

Uh. That’s not good for the motor. Lol. 

Unless you have the wrong injector type (high/low impedance), exchange it for another. Something ain’t right, lol. 

You know the weird part is other than it spitting fuel out like crazy, it idles smoothly.  I would think with that much fuel going through the engine it would pop or back fire every so often.

 

[Rockwood]

Thanks for this, I'll give him a call today.

At idle a normal engine would pull vacuum.  That's how it pulls air into it.  From what I know of Hondas normal idle vacuum is about 22 inches.  I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

So I gave my dad a set of injectors to replace his.  They are used but at least its something.  He ordered a new set of o-rings for them and is going to try them.  After that he might try a new set.  The set he is running now came with the car and work with the stock ECU.

Not going to swap part from my working to car to his, mostly because he live in Lake Havasu and I live in Anaheim.  I might send him my AEM just to verify that the two ECUs are working the same since they both run my car the same.  Ya we like to work on our own cars.  One it's fun, two you get learn how everything on it works, and three its cheaper in the long run.    

They're top feeds, so dead O-rings should let fuel leak out, not in.  

I was talking impedance though: if you have it set to the wrong impedance, odd chit happens with injectors.  Long shot, but worth a check since it's a simple config change.

You know the weird part is other than it spitting fuel out like crazy, it idles smoothly.  I would think with that much fuel going through the engine it would pop or back fire every so often.

I'm surprised it's running at all, LOL.

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

At idle a normal engine would pull vacuum.  That's how it pulls air into it.  From what I know of Hondas normal idle vacuum is about 22 inches.  I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

That's not what he's talking about.  On your log page of what I'm guessing is AEM, the "engine load" says -10.2.  That's bad.

Typical idle load can be well into the POSITIVE "teens" and higher.