1967 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Rear fuel tank hangers. Piece of 3/8 welded into that corner makes it ultra strong. Still staring at the front trying to figure out how to do it.

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So now that the fuel tank has taken up all the space where the rear sway bar used to be I will have to completely Fab and install an aftermarket sway bar on the front side of the cradle. That will be after the truck is running and driving or at least the axles are in. I have this hole to use where the composite factory spring connected.

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Maybe just a little Overkill but I figured it's a fuel tank. Steel bracket is 3/16 thick steel plate on the tank the aluminum is 3/8. That will get welded when we weld the rest of the tank. I figured this is bolting to the aluminum cradle and spreading the load. It's also making it stronger on something that was cut in half and welded back together. Couldn't hurt to add an extra pound of steel to it.  1/8 inch just felt light in my hand. With a little rubber in between each joint it has a slight amount of give and flex.

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Dune-Track-N said:
I'd love to see something other then a winters, they are so boring and clunky.....

I got a Ratchet B!tch Shifter for my project. Ease of standard selection with the bang shift option for sporty fun.

https://www.kilduffmachine.com/

View attachment 98417

Shoot even the SHO shifter is better to me
https://sandhollowoffroad.com/product/speed-shifter/
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That SHO is cool looking. I have actually been looking at the B&M pro ratchet vs the Winters.  A little more money at $409. Comes with a 5' cable which I will need longer. I assume longer cables are available.  Although the budget has been blown out of the water on this project I still do look at certain things and ask if I need to really pay more for an item.  Is the SHO a ratchet style shifter like the B&M? $690 for the ratchet bitch which is a little pricey. 

 
I have gone back and forth a lot on using a gated vs ratchet style shifter. Ratchet style seems more cumbersome on a street vehicle. I do like the simple design of the Winters. Not far from ordering the shifter so I need to figure this out. 

 
That's why I got what I did. I wanted both a standard style just put in D thru the gates (3 for my TH400) and go trans does what it should shifts normal based on load.

but...... with the +/- bump action of a ratchet for when ya want to hold and bump shift 1-2-3

 
FWIW, I used a B&M mega shifter on 3 projects & loved it. 2 were 3 speed & one was a 700R4.  none manual VB Trans, but were shifted manually on "spirited drives".

I loved the thing.  took a bit to get it adjusted right (especially on the 700R4), but once I got it there & locked it down, it was golden. 

 
Dune-Track-N said:
That's why I got what I did. I wanted both a standard style just put in D thru the gates (3 for my TH400) and go trans does what it should shifts normal based on load.

but...... with the +/- bump action of a ratchet for when ya want to hold and bump shift 1-2-3
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Certainly very cool. But $283 versus $690 is a lot of change.

 
Bobalos said:
FWIW, I used a B&M mega shifter on 3 projects & loved it. 2 were 3 speed & one was a 700R4.  none manual VB Trans, but were shifted manually on "spirited drives".

I loved the thing.  took a bit to get it adjusted right (especially on the 700R4), but once I got it there & locked it down, it was golden. 
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Hmmm. That is pretty cool. I like the bigger handle versus around knob as well.



 
the biggest problem I had with it, was getting it adjusted & that just took time & 9,000,000,000 trips under the car to adjust it. 

the second was the jamb nut that holds the T-Handle where I wanted it.  once I sinched it down with blue lock tite it was good.  they also have a handle with a button.  I used it for Line Lock & N2O with a toggle on the dash (with a red/green, for stop & go, on the dash).

 
We have this car in the shop right now with the b&m ratchet style shifter. After playing with it I really like how it feels. I almost think I would like this better than a winter's gated style shifter. It also feels more like the sequential in the sand rail which I like. The shifter that allows you to have two handles and do both is cool but I think using the ratchet part of it is how I would drive all the time anyway. Think I made my decision.

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Took the 31 to a car show today and this crazy Chevy van was there. Old school nuts and cool. It has a two-speed powerglide behind it.

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Not quite 21 gallons. The pump will take up a little space so it will have just a little over 20 gallon capacity which I'm very happy with. Layout, all the welding, and building the mounts between two of us I figure we are very close to 100 hours on this project.

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What is the largest flange and the largest tube on the very top?  I would assume one is the fill (the tube?)

The flange the fuel level sender?  

 
Bobalos said:
What is the largest flange and the largest tube on the very top?  I would assume one is the fill (the tube?)

The flange the fuel level sender?  
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The top flange is the fuel level sender which is correct. The small dash 6 fitting up top is going to be a second overflow breather valve. The pump itself has an overflow breather but it sits so much lower in the tank on the step. The tube on the top is where my flip over gas cap will connect to with a short piece of rubber hose.. That will be my next project which will be a piece of 18 gauge steel that gets built and covers the top of the tank. That flip over gas cap will attach to that panel that I build and has a gasket on both sides to seal it all up. I'm also going to have that flip over speedway cap powder coated black so it will pop against the bronze panel. I also added drain at the bottom of the tank since I can't go down through the gas cap and get all the way to the bottom. That front section of the tank was baffled and only has a whole bunch of small holes to allow the gas between the two sections. Certainly want to be able to drain the tank and make it light enough if I have to pull it out. I just used a very small dash 4 on that drain. Easy to pull the cap off and shove a piece of 3/8 hose over the fitting and let it drain into a fuel jug.

 
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