1964 Dodge A-100 Hot rod sort of rat rod build thread.

Are you going to get in the bed when you are filling it up?  

Can you stick the nozzle down far enough that it clicks off when it's full?  

If it over flows, it's going to run down that piece and across the wood and run out between it and the tailgate.  

Just thinking..... 

 
I think I'm liking something more simple like this. Between the frame rails. And maybe just leave it a flat piece of steel that gets painted bronze. No bead rolling and no dimple die. I want the section between the frame rails to have quarter inch Allen bolts like the frame that goes around the radiator.

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Bobalos said:
Are you going to get in the bed when you are filling it up?  

Can you stick the nozzle down far enough that it clicks off when it's full?  

If it over flows, it's going to run down that piece and across the wood and run out between it and the tailgate.  

Just thinking..... 
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I can stand behind the tailgate and easily reach the fill. Yes fuel could run down on the wood if it splashes out. I might have to carry something as a precaution to keep that protected.

 
Or maybe on the top a big one like on the bottom?  it would roughly be the same dimensions.

 
whatever these alum plates are is what throws it off for me, they don't fit/match the rest of the fabrication they say 1990 billet
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Dune-Track-N said:
whatever these alum plates are is what throws it off for me, they don't fit/match the rest of the fabrication they say 1990 billet
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Ya those came from Rick Dobbertin and the mounts for the upper Vette a arms. Yesterday I actually had these flipped left and right making the top smooth. So I have been thinking about putting the milled grooves down and out of sight. They would just be flat and smooth and I would probably paint them bronze.  Although black like the frame might look good. I will have to respray the top of all of the frame rails with the same rustoleum black. 

 
Here is what those big aluminum bulkheads look like without the cover. The aluminum covers for sure need to be on there to cover it up. I will take a pic tomorrow with them flipped. 

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A lot of persuasion and it fits perfectly. Now I can weld the four brackets in from below tomorrow. Super happy with how this looks. I wanted the rear diff to be completely exposed. Also those aluminum upper plates over the bulkheads look a lot better without the grooves. Certainly a great suggestion and I was already thinking along those lines. Still up in the air whether to paint those bronze or black. I think it would look good either way. I thought about putting some dimple die on the front edge of the piece I just built but I'm going to leave it smooth. I will do some sanding around the edges to put a little radius on it and also probably sand them real smooth or even put some mud on them.

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Been talking to Billy at G-Force to build my rear axles. Here is a message and photos I just sent to him. Pain in my ass@!! He says at 20 degrees angle it can damage the flange. He also said their axles at the CVs are about 1.5 inches larger diameter and there can be clearance issues especially with the airbags. 

Here are a couple more photos. The wheels have a fair amount of clearance and I would have never guessed they would be so hard to get out. There is just so much offset to the inside on the 19x12 wheels and they hit the ball joint.   I still don't think I would have wanted to narrow the cradle anymore. These pics show I could get them out with the upper arm and upper bolt removed from the airbag. Of course no axles. It would be extreme but it is possible to let the back of the trans/drivetrain drop down to remove them. It would be a PITA. Drain the coolant and remove upper hose. Remove motor mount bolts. Remove 14 bolts attaching the frame to the cradle. And I don't even know what else because I am still in fab stage.  Maybe another option could be removing the upper and lower arms and moving the entire assembly in. That would depend on how much travel the CVs would have. I would have no problem making a jig to keep the axles from traveling too far down causing damage. I could also cut a stock axle 3" and install it. Then play with it and put an angle finder on the axle while removing the wheel. There has to be a way. 
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and while Im giving an opinion that was not asked for.........  LOL.

I would use something like one of these to hold the sheet metal to the wood.  but probably not with the cutting bit, wood does not deal with a huge hole too well.

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