New Polaris Pro R


Has anyone used a solar trickle charger? It should plug right into the port on the dash. I was thinking of installing this on my enclosed trailer roof so I can keep the battery topped in storage since I don't have power
 

Has anyone used a solar trickle charger? It should plug right into the port on the dash. I was thinking of installing this on my enclosed trailer roof so I can keep the battery topped in storage since I don't have power
I tried something similar with the trailer battery. The panel is about a year old and it seemed to kill the battery. I put a controller so it wouldn’t over charge and that didn’t help. I was cleaning out the trailer and decided to test the battery less than 8 volts. The solar panel was only putting out 4.5 volts.
 

Has anyone used a solar trickle charger? It should plug right into the port on the dash. I was thinking of installing this on my enclosed trailer roof so I can keep the battery topped in storage since I don't have power

Well it seems to be working so far. I plugged it into the dash port on Sunday afternoon and threw the panel up on the trailer roof with the wire running out the side door. Easiest "install" ever.

Monday: app still read "low" and got another notification
Tuesday: app reads 12.005v
Wednesday (now): app reads 12.507v

According to AI a full 12v battery should read 12.6-12.8v so I should see that tomorrow

1756333332896.png

It claims to have a controller built in to prevent overcharging - I'll know Friday if it explodes or not. Fingers crossed.
 
Well it seems to be working so far. I plugged it into the dash port on Sunday afternoon and threw the panel up on the trailer roof with the wire running out the side door. Easiest "install" ever.

Monday: app still read "low" and got another notification
Tuesday: app reads 12.005v
Wednesday (now): app reads 12.507v

According to AI a full 12v battery should read 12.6-12.8v so I should see that tomorrow

View attachment 156852

It claims to have a controller built in to prevent overcharging - I'll know Friday if it explodes or not. Fingers crossed.
That's pretty cool.
 
Pro R owners, are heat in the cab, engine/exhaust noise and turning radius real issues for you guys? Which one bugs you the most.

Seems those 3 items are commonly complained about. I know there are other items, but there are easy fixes for most other things.

Thanks.
 
Pro R owners, are heat in the cab, engine/exhaust noise and turning radius real issues for you guys? Which one bugs you the most.

Seems those 3 items are commonly complained about. I know there are other items, but there are easy fixes for most other things.

Thanks.
I have none of those issues.

All the heat complaints are from people with windshields and full doors. The Oem doors work great for airflow.
Engine noise? Sure the exhaust is a little loud, but i believe they are hearing the clutches since they are behind the seat. Nothing you can do about that.
Turning radius? ummm, use the gas pedal to turn.
 
Pro R owners, are heat in the cab, engine/exhaust noise and turning radius real issues for you guys? Which one bugs you the most.

Seems those 3 items are commonly complained about. I know there are other items, but there are easy fixes for most other things.

Thanks.

My last car was a Turbo S and had a 4 year gap between cars so I don't have much to go off of but neither of those things have bugged me so far.

Turning radius does suck but I also have a 4 seater so my expectations were already pretty low. As mentioned above turn with the throttle and it helps a lot

Cab heat does seem a lot better than my Turbo S but I haven't had the chance to really ride in too much heat yet. The 25's did add vents by the driver/passenger feet and vented seats - plus I have air pumpers for my helmet. I don't think it's an issue but we'll see this season

Engine noise isn't an issue at all for me. I actually like a bit of noise up until you get to some of those obnoxious aftermarket exhausts lol
 
We have two Pro S in our group and both complain about the heat in the cab, especially at slow speeds or when stopped & idling. One guy is going to buy the new RPM heat shield at the Sand Show in a few weeks as they are told that makes a big improvement.
 
We have two Pro S in our group and both complain about the heat in the cab, especially at slow speeds or when stopped & idling. One guy is going to buy the new RPM heat shield at the Sand Show in a few weeks as they are told that makes a big improvement.
Pro S has a turba tucked in there that creates the heat.
 
Pro S has a turba tucked in there that creates the heat.
The heat is from the front of the car & firewall. RPM makes a heat shield that gets mounted between the radiator and firewall.

I think on the 2025 Pro R Polaris add their own version of this same heat shield.
 
The heat is from the front of the car & firewall. RPM makes a heat shield that gets mounted between the radiator and firewall.

I think on the 2025 Pro R Polaris add their own version of this same heat shield.
Meh, i have never had this issue. TNT makes a diffuser for radiator exhaust and hood scoop for clutch intake

1756407249939.png
 
Well it seems to be working so far. I plugged it into the dash port on Sunday afternoon and threw the panel up on the trailer roof with the wire running out the side door. Easiest "install" ever.

Monday: app still read "low" and got another notification
Tuesday: app reads 12.005v
Wednesday (now): app reads 12.507v

According to AI a full 12v battery should read 12.6-12.8v so I should see that tomorrow

View attachment 156852

It claims to have a controller built in to prevent overcharging - I'll know Friday if it explodes or not. Fingers crossed.

No explosion. Battery seems to be hovering around 12.54 yesterday/today which means the controller is working and my understanding is you don't really want the battery pegged at 100%.

I'm taking the car to Havasu tonight where I can plug it into a real battery tender for the next few weeks to compare the difference but so far really happy with the solution
 
No explosion. Battery seems to be hovering around 12.54 yesterday/today which means the controller is working and my understanding is you don't really want the battery pegged at 100%.

I'm taking the car to Havasu tonight where I can plug it into a real battery tender for the next few weeks to compare the difference but so far really happy with the solution
You damaged the battery letting it get to 12V. It will start the car but the capacity and lifespan has been reduced. Keep that in mind if you start hearing the battery crank slower during the season.
 
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