BaBaBouy
Well-known member
- May 6, 2021
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I thought I got rid of all the parasites when I moved…Seems there are a number of reasons the parasitic draw is happening, get an ammeter and start checking current flow.
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I thought I got rid of all the parasites when I moved…Seems there are a number of reasons the parasitic draw is happening, get an ammeter and start checking current flow.
WE flare up unannounced where ever you are, its more fun that way.I thought I got rid of all the parasites when I moved…
Ah, AI… So wordySeems there are a number of reasons the parasitic draw is happening, get an ammeter and start checking current flow.
I tried something similar with the trailer battery. The panel is about a year old and it seemed to kill the battery. I put a controller so it wouldn’t over charge and that didn’t help. I was cleaning out the trailer and decided to test the battery less than 8 volts. The solar panel was only putting out 4.5 volts.
Has anyone used a solar trickle charger? It should plug right into the port on the dash. I was thinking of installing this on my enclosed trailer roof so I can keep the battery topped in storage since I don't have power
Has anyone used a solar trickle charger? It should plug right into the port on the dash. I was thinking of installing this on my enclosed trailer roof so I can keep the battery topped in storage since I don't have power
That's pretty cool.Well it seems to be working so far. I plugged it into the dash port on Sunday afternoon and threw the panel up on the trailer roof with the wire running out the side door. Easiest "install" ever.
Monday: app still read "low" and got another notification
Tuesday: app reads 12.005v
Wednesday (now): app reads 12.507v
According to AI a full 12v battery should read 12.6-12.8v so I should see that tomorrow
View attachment 156852
It claims to have a controller built in to prevent overcharging - I'll know Friday if it explodes or not. Fingers crossed.
I have none of those issues.Pro R owners, are heat in the cab, engine/exhaust noise and turning radius real issues for you guys? Which one bugs you the most.
Seems those 3 items are commonly complained about. I know there are other items, but there are easy fixes for most other things.
Thanks.
Pro R owners, are heat in the cab, engine/exhaust noise and turning radius real issues for you guys? Which one bugs you the most.
Seems those 3 items are commonly complained about. I know there are other items, but there are easy fixes for most other things.
Thanks.
Pro S has a turba tucked in there that creates the heat.We have two Pro S in our group and both complain about the heat in the cab, especially at slow speeds or when stopped & idling. One guy is going to buy the new RPM heat shield at the Sand Show in a few weeks as they are told that makes a big improvement.
The heat is from the front of the car & firewall. RPM makes a heat shield that gets mounted between the radiator and firewall.Pro S has a turba tucked in there that creates the heat.
Meh, i have never had this issue. TNT makes a diffuser for radiator exhaust and hood scoop for clutch intakeThe heat is from the front of the car & firewall. RPM makes a heat shield that gets mounted between the radiator and firewall.
I think on the 2025 Pro R Polaris add their own version of this same heat shield.
Thanks, I’ll share this with them. Maybe this is a better idea?Meh, i have never had this issue. TNT makes a diffuser for radiator exhaust and hood scoop for clutch intake
View attachment 156921
i have not noticed any difference, but again i never had an issue. I did it mostly to get a different look and more air into the clutch intake.Thanks, I’ll share this with them. Maybe this is a better idea?
Well it seems to be working so far. I plugged it into the dash port on Sunday afternoon and threw the panel up on the trailer roof with the wire running out the side door. Easiest "install" ever.
Monday: app still read "low" and got another notification
Tuesday: app reads 12.005v
Wednesday (now): app reads 12.507v
According to AI a full 12v battery should read 12.6-12.8v so I should see that tomorrow
View attachment 156852
It claims to have a controller built in to prevent overcharging - I'll know Friday if it explodes or not. Fingers crossed.
You damaged the battery letting it get to 12V. It will start the car but the capacity and lifespan has been reduced. Keep that in mind if you start hearing the battery crank slower during the season.No explosion. Battery seems to be hovering around 12.54 yesterday/today which means the controller is working and my understanding is you don't really want the battery pegged at 100%.
I'm taking the car to Havasu tonight where I can plug it into a real battery tender for the next few weeks to compare the difference but so far really happy with the solution