New Polaris Pro R

rumor is the OEM thermostat housing is two piece and it has fallen apart in some cases. You can buy a revised part direct from Polaris before it become an issue. I just ordered one and will compare.

1742956479028.png
 
megadesertdiesel said:
rumor is the OEM thermostat housing is two piece and it has fallen apart in some cases. You can buy a revised part direct from Polaris before it become an issue. I just ordered one and will compare.

View attachment 140904
Click to expand...
All 2025 Pro R models come with this one piece cast thermostat housing. It started at a race part that became production.

About 6 months ago on one of the Polaris race shop talk videos they talked about this part, and being developed for the factory race team and then made into production.
 
Here is the Polaris video that talks about the new housing. Go to minute 3:30.

 
New cage day! Picked it up from UTV Speed this morning. This is their first cage doing the A+ pillar to the floor and it turned out amazing. Wish I took more pics but its loaded up and heading to Mammoth tomorrow
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1351.jpeg
    IMG_1351.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 37
  • IMG_1349.jpeg
    IMG_1349.jpeg
    3.4 MB · Views: 37
Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
That hasn’t been a real problem. But I’ve had a few friends that have had the piston come off the front shocks. One flipped over with his 80+ year old mother in the car. And a couple other friends found out with a lot less drama.
 
ROBERT L said:
That hasn’t been a real problem. But I’ve had a few friends that have had the piston come off the front shocks. One flipped over with his 80+ year old mother in the car. And a couple other friends found out with a lot less drama.
Click to expand...
Limit strap kits then?
 
Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Not unless you stuff one of the front corners in a bad hole. Lots of miles on friends cars with no upgrade. I did upgrade mine for peace of mind since i have an early '22 model.
 
Rockwood said:
Limit strap kits then?
Click to expand...
I don't think that would help the shearing of the clevis from shock shaft. Limit straps are a good thing to save internals from being topped out and making servicing more difficult.

I do have a friend whose rear shock in his Turbo r come apart and he crashed the car pretty bad. I wasn't there but he supposedly didn't hit anything in the dunes.
 
megadesertdiesel said:
I don't think that would help the shearing of the clevis from shock shaft. Limit straps are a good thing to save internals from being topped out and making servicing more difficult.

I do have a friend whose rear shock in his Turbo r come apart and he crashed the car pretty bad. I wasn't there but he supposedly didn't hit anything in the dunes.
Click to expand...
I'm talking about limit straps to keep the piston from exiting the shock. I'm assuming it's coming out the bottom from topping out too much/hard?
 
Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

I did mine - I think its mostly fine though. While they did the cage they also did the MTS billet clevis + cups and springs, lower ball joints (uppers are apparently fine in the newer ones - though I should have just done it since it was all apart anyway), tie rods, and the suspension bolt replacement kit from Misfit garage. I guess a lot of the suspension bolts aren't properly shanked from the factory which causes a lot of clunking in the front of the car. Heading up the Mammoth tonight so I'll see if that helps

I don't think a lot of it was necessary but I plan on taking this car on longer adventure rides (Arizona Peace Trail, baja, etc) so I'd rather just play it safe
 
brecht said:
I did mine - I think its mostly fine though. While they did the cage they also did the MTS billet clevis + cups and springs, lower ball joints (uppers are apparently fine in the newer ones - though I should have just done it since it was all apart anyway), tie rods, and the suspension bolt replacement kit from Misfit garage. I guess a lot of the suspension bolts aren't properly shanked from the factory which causes a lot of clunking in the front of the car. Heading up the Mammoth tonight so I'll see if that helps

I don't think a lot of it was necessary but I plan on taking this car on longer adventure rides (Arizona Peace Trail, baja, etc) so I'd rather just play it safe
Click to expand...
I went round and round with CT Racewerx about the bolt kit they sell. The difference between Shank and Shoulder was main topic. Yes the Polaris bolts have a slightly smaller shank and the shoulder is too short resulting in threads on the tabs. CT only fixes the Shank problem NOT the should issue. I'm not sure of the Garage Products ones though.
 
Great email to get while the car is an hour away in storage lol. I guess I'll be installing a quick battery disconnect or taking the battery out so I can keep it on a tender at the house. I guess its pretty obvious there's a constant draw since I can connect to it anytime from the Polaris app, didn't think much about it

IMG_1523.png
 
brecht said:
Great email to get while the car is an hour away in storage lol. I guess I'll be installing a quick battery disconnect or taking the battery out so I can keep it on a tender at the house. I guess its pretty obvious there's a constant draw since I can connect to it anytime from the Polaris app, didn't think much about it

View attachment 154064
Click to expand...
I don't understand how you guys have battery draws all the time. I must be the only person without battery issues in any of my toys. My turn sits in a hot AZ garage and goes months between starting up. currently knocking on wood.
 
megadesertdiesel said:
I don't understand how you guys have battery draws all the time. I must be the only person without battery issues in any of my toys. My turn sits in a hot AZ garage and goes months between starting up. currently knocking on wood.
Click to expand...

Which rzr do you have? I can connect to mine anytime from my phone through the app so obviously something's on even when the keys not
 
brecht said:
Which rzr do you have? I can connect to mine anytime from my phone through the app so obviously something's on even when the keys not
Click to expand...
Pro-r , but my last few i have not had any battery issues, X3, X3 max, RS1, maverick. I guess i just have good luck with batteries. But i hear alot of people with issues. Poor wiring?
 
megadesertdiesel said:
I don't understand how you guys have battery draws all the time. I must be the only person without battery issues in any of my toys. My turn sits in a hot AZ garage and goes months between starting up. currently knocking on wood.
Click to expand...
This (2023 Pro R) is the first Polaris I’ve had a battery issue with. One stock battery was low, after replacing it the problem was way less of an issue but still there. My buddy’s 2022 has the same problem.
 
BaBaBouy said:
This (2023 Pro R) is the first Polaris I’ve had a battery issue with. One stock battery was low, after replacing it the problem was way less of an issue but still there. My buddy’s 2022 has the same problem.
Click to expand...
Mine does the same thing after sitting for a month in the garage, just got that same message yesterday. 2025 Pro R
 
Here are some of the most frequently mentioned causes for Polaris Pro R battery drain:
  • Faulty Alternator/Charging System: Polaris has issued recalls for certain 2022-2023 Pro R models due to a potentially faulty alternator rotor that could crack and separate, leading to a fire hazard and power loss. Even outside of recalls, problems with the alternator or voltage regulator can hinder proper battery charging. A weak voltage regulator, potentially sensitive to heat, may sometimes charge the battery correctly and other times not, according to Dirt Wheels Magazine
    .
  • Parasitic Draw: This refers to electrical components continuing to draw power even when the UTV is turned off. While a small amount is normal for things like the clock and security system, an excessive draw can lead to a drained battery. Common causes of parasitic draw can include:
    • Faulty Wiring: Damaged or improperly installed wiring can create a path for electricity to escape the battery.
    • Aftermarket Accessories: Non-factory installed items like audio systems, light bars, winches, etc., if not wired correctly, can continue to draw power.
    • Stuck Relays or Failing Sensors: These components can malfunction and cause a constant drain.
  • Ride Command Module Issues: Some owners have reported battery drain related to the Ride Command module, especially if it gets wet during washing. One user suggested checking the ground strap for the antenna as a potential fix for a loose connection related to the Ride Command.
  • Loose or Corroded Connections: Poorly connected or corroded battery terminals can hinder proper charging and lead to a drained battery.
  • Old or Failing Battery: Like any battery, those in UTVs have a finite lifespan and will eventually lose their ability to hold a charge effectively, especially if they are frequently discharged deeply.
  • Frequent Short Trips or Extended Parking: Short rides may not allow the charging system enough time to fully replenish the battery's charge. Conversely, letting the UTV sit for weeks or months without starting can also lead to battery drain.
Click to expand...

Seems there are a number of reasons the parasitic draw is happening, get an ammeter and start checking current flow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top