Trailer rear door opening.

[Rorschach]

OK here are the pictures of what I did. What I would do is open the door and pull it back about 8" and insert a foam block to hold it. Then I would pull cables out. Doing it in this position there was a lot less load on the cables and easy to move. I would reverse this when I closed the door. The most tension on the cables are when door is fully opened making it the hardest place to slide cables in or out.

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Is that 2 self tappers and 2 wood screws holding those to the door?

I'd have to look to see what holds the cables to my door but that would scare me. There's a lot of stored energy in that spring up there. Ask me how I know.

I used to use a couple bars to take the tension off my cables and just unpinned them from the door to get them out of the way so I couldn't hit them plus I'd trip over them in the dark after drinking too many beers 

 

[richard h]

Yes on the attachments. Original was just the 2 wood screws. Never was an issue thankfully.

 

[Bobalos]

if someone steps on the other cable juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust a little bit it would relieve the tension on this side to slide it out, then do the other side the same way.  but....... that would be a 2 man job. 

Mine had D-Rings welded to that super small metal part of the frame there in @richard h picture.  it was not exactly the same, but darn close. 

 

[RIDERED]

My door opening is 97” and my last sand car, Old Yeller, was 95” wide. It fit but it was tight and I would hit the door cable once in awhile. So I wanted to see the @richard h cable slide modification.  Hopefully I can modify my door cable to solve that problem. 
My new sand car is 98” wide but I’m selling the 13.5” (14”) wheels and replacing them with 12” wheels to get it to 95” wide. 

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I forgot you had a checkered floor in your trailer. It's been so long that you could actually see the floor.  :laugh1: