Thoughts on enclosed trailer mods and upgrades

Jtmoney714 said:
How high did it lift yours? I want to do mine so I can get 16” wheels and better tires in there. 
Click to expand...
5 or 6 inches - if you go under your trailer and measure this distance (blue line) - you'll see more or less what it will end up being for your trailer.

image.png

 
p.s - some people just "flip" their axels and not buy the kit I posted - from what I've found out in doing this for the first time - your axels have an engineered bow in them - if you just flip them you are essentially ruining the integrity of the axle as that bow is not bowed in the incorrect direction. There's 2 main axle sizes, make sure you get the correct kit.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
wesinls said:
Not the best comparison photo's - but here are some before and after...i haven't towed it yet with my motorhome - I did the flip a few months back.

I was worried it was going to look stupid, not that it matters, but still...It doesn't look that bad and I'm happy with it.  I don't bottom out when leaving my street (back corner would drag) - and am hoping if I hit soft sand it will not be what drags me down.

I've been stuck once in my motorhome (Gordon's) - and the trailer was dragging - if it wasn't dragging it,  I most likely would have made it through the soft patch as I was only 10ft from hard pack. Well worth the 200 bucks and time in my opinion...

One potential issue is if you double as a car hauler and tow lowered cars - cars will bottom out easier given the ramp is a bit steeper.

View attachment 82703

View attachment 82704

View attachment 82705
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply with pics. I drag a lot on wash rd in the wash dips. 

 
Bugged me I didn't have before and after photos of my axle swap ever since this thread was created...made it a point on my last trip to pull over at same spot to take a photo.

Before:
1733785011690.png

After

1733785041156.png
 
60 Inch extended RV tongue
Brute Force electric Jack (with remotes, you can actually lower it onto the ball from the drivers seat of the RV so you don't have to keep getting in and out)
Bright internal and external lights (side and rear)
Work Bench
Integrated tool box
winch
MACS tie downs in the floor
Hidden spare tire in the floor (if possible)
AC / Heat on roof (or mini split on front) if you do anything during the warmer months.. or heat for an air mattress and others can sleep in it.
Generator cabinet
I would put Sea Deck or some sort of foam flooring on the walls on any area where window nets are, or if you are going to be getting in and out of the car in that area.
Not sure how limber you are, but Dual Esacpe hatches on either side make tying down a breeze if you are hauling a ton of shit
Extra wide side door, and hang a decent sized TV on it.
110 Outlets in the front, and rear internal.. On the side by the man door.
Basic stuff front cabinets and roof cabinets
I'd recommend going over height like most of them offer.. it's just nicer all the way around.
You can get a lot of surprisingly useful stuff over at the Wally World like paper towel holders etc.. that you can either stick on or bolt on..
Inside / Outside Stereo.

You could probably live without the escape hatch options.. but the rest is pretty basic trailer stuff.
 
Everything that RiverDave listed and his post and also an air compressor. Super convenient when you’re out in the dunes to have your own.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top