Stacker trailer 101 help

Next question on stacker topic is trailer weight.  Just realized the weight of these things. 

Our Diesel class A isn’t not a tag axle, so is a stacker even safe with it?

seems stacker average 8-9k alone. Add our medium Tatum buggy, quads, fuel, all the extra crap I pack (hubby not happy abt all my extras), and would be so far over 10k hitch rating I would think. 
 

How much weight are you non tag axle class A’s pulling?  I don’t mind slower up the hills. Just don’t want to damage our RV. 

 
We went from a 5th wheel to a toterhome and stacker so I can't offer any real world advice on the hitch. I have seen posts that the hitch and possible the rear frame need to be beefed up depending on how the motorhome was built.

 
Big picture is coming together. As I said prior, friends is huge and there is a price to be paid. His is a tag axle, and he did rip the hitch off it. Lucky other then some small repair to trailer and rebuild on hitch was all that was needed. Could have been catastrophic.

 
richard h said:
Big picture is coming together. As I said prior, friends is huge and there is a price to be paid. His is a tag axle, and he did rip the hitch off it. Lucky other then some small repair to trailer and rebuild on hitch was all that was needed. Could have been catastrophic.
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Yikes. This is what I was thinking could happen as I put all the weights together. 
 

guess I need to start looking for what shop is willing to help with needed beefing and be mindful to stay smaller and as light as possible. 

 
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Lots of topics on this. The hitch is only one piece of the puzzle and really the easy piece. Frame, suspension, brakes and trans are all factors. Most class a are not up to the task unless built with a high tow capacity in their design. Sure, there are going to be people that tell you they do it and it works just fine. I’m just not one to put to a trailer that weighs 12-15 k behind something with a tow rating of 10k or in some cases even less. Just because you can physically pull something doesn’t mean it is safe. 
The other issue with stackers in their height. They are usually taller than the Moho which adds a lot of air flow resistance back there.

 
well as for pulling it with a diesel pusher i would only worry about having a good hitch that is over built not some bolt on hitch that came with the coach have something built.  there are pickups that are rated to tow to 20k. pick up trucks are not built nearly as heavy as a diesel pusher and dont have the wheel base to keep sufficient front axel weight also the tires on a rv are usually no where the max rating. even though the rv manufacture puts a low tow rating it is probably only limited by the hitch which can be easily fixed. just my opinion i looked into getting a tag and a bigger trailer a while ago there are very few rv with a tow rating over 10k even on a sparten chassis they are only rated at 10k on a single axel the tags were 15k with a c9 and 20k isx15. 

 
Jersey_Jeff73 said:
well as for pulling it with a diesel pusher i would only worry about having a good hitch that is over built not some bolt on hitch that came with the coach have something built.  there are pickups that are rated to tow to 20k. pick up trucks are not built nearly as heavy as a diesel pusher and dont have the wheel base to keep sufficient front axel weight also the tires on a rv are usually no where the max rating. even though the rv manufacture puts a low tow rating it is probably only limited by the hitch which can be easily fixed. just my opinion i looked into getting a tag and a bigger trailer a while ago there are very few rv with a tow rating over 10k even on a sparten chassis they are only rated at 10k on a single axel the tags were 15k with a c9 and 20k isx15. 
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Exactly. The hitch failed, where the tube for ball mount welds to the cross tube. Broke that tube off. Hitch mount to frame was fine.

 
cek said:
Go with a belly lift even if you don’t want one. Easier to sell. You can add sides to make it a platform. Depending on what you need to put in it a 20’ dual axle may do the job and your moho will pull it fine. Ive had traditional lifts as well as the ramp style. The traditional is quite a bit better in my opinion and you can get more in a smaller area. Mine has 100 gallons of fuel. That’s a must for me. 
 

lookmaround at what others are using. There is a reason why they are belly lifts and wide door openings. It’s because they work well and are easily resold. 

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CEK always has the good good stuff. How long is that CEK?

 
Another consideration I see in your comments is a 24' triple axle.  Triple axles take up the room towards the back, making it so you may not be able to pull your buggy in with paddles on.  The wheel wells go far enough back, that you can't pull the car in far enough with paddles on and still be able to close the door.  Not sure exactly, but a 24' might be long enough.  I know for sure a 20 or 22 is not long enough, and a 2 axle becomes a must if you're wanting to still be able to do this.

 
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cek said:
Trailer is just a 24’ box plus V. Very simple. 
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cek  do you know your total weight and tongue weight? A friend is looking to replace his 28ft trailer with a 22' belly lift stacker. They are trying to sell him a 2 axle , has a stnger lift which is heavy and he has a 2500lb car and ~1600lb SxS. I cannot see two 7200Lb axles and 16: tires holding up well

 
Fullthrottleguy said:
cek  do you know your total weight and tongue weight? A friend is looking to replace his 28ft trailer with a 22' belly lift stacker. They are trying to sell him a 2 axle , has a stnger lift which is heavy and he has a 2500lb car and ~1600lb SxS. I cannot see two 7200Lb axles and 16: tires holding up well
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I’ve never weighed this setup. I think   @tjZ06 had a similar setup to what they are trying to sell your buddy. 
 

I would guess with fuel, water and tools he would be pretty close to max weight for the trailer. He could go to 8k axles just to be safe. 

 
cek said:
I’ve never weighed this setup. I think   @tjZ06 had a similar setup to what they are trying to sell your buddy. 
 

I would guess with fuel, water and tools he would be pretty close to max weight for the trailer. He could go to 8k axles just to be safe. 
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Thanks, I know he does not want triple axle, I don't want to be the one sitting on the side of the road with him when he blows a tire due to weight 😂

 
cek said:
I’ve never weighed this setup. I think   @tjZ06 had a similar setup to what they are trying to sell your buddy. 
 

I would guess with fuel, water and tools he would be pretty close to max weight for the trailer. He could go to 8k axles just to be safe. 
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My stacker was under-axled, for sure.  I did run Michelin XPS Rib tires and had zero problems, and the new owner hasn't had any issues either.  If I was building a 2-axle no question I'd go 17.5" or 19.5"s on some 10k axles though.  The 17.5"s on my last 5'er TH were 120psi tires with a very high rating too. 

-TJ

 
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Going from a regular enclosed, to a stacker... you will notice the weight difference big time (even with the same load)

Stackers are just a lot heavier.... heavier chassis + lift etc.

That said, I pulled a 20' stacker with a CAT C7 350hp no prob.  Grades sucked (big grades...cajon pass, whitewater area etc).... but everything else was business as usual. 

 
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