RV Garage/Shop

[J Alper]

I just got done with mine spent a lot of timing planning it out,   I am only on 3/4 of a acre so i wanted to match the house, if it is far enough away the esthetics might not matter as much,   I framed mine with close friends @sandroosten was the contractor for Southern NV, and he was the master mind,  I did the electrical with help from a Board member, that was actually really fun, and @sandroosten framed the interior room and stairs, and hung all the trusses,  

My big take away and difference from a close friend that just did a steel building is, 

1. Mine matches the house to a T, I feel what i spent i will get double out of the shop, it looks like it was build at the same time,  

2. The close friend that built a steel  structure spend 30% less but, not sure what value it might add or subtract, it is harder to place value on a steel building, 

3. depending on what kind of work you are doing, i like a lot of wall space, for me i  2700 square foot garage with 2 doors one 12 foot wide and one 14 foot, the last garage i placed benches in from of the doors, so i just wanted a lot of wall space      due to the larger tools like the CNC machine and welding tables,  

4.  Best parts from @sandroosten was the 17 foot walls,  16.5 plus a steam wall,  this allows for a true 2nd story loft with stairs,  i store all kind of stuff up there, mainly because of the stairs John built is easy to go up and down,  no ladders,                just plain easy to walk up stairs.

5. Steam wall is nice i can wash the floors and it does not eat the drywall,  

6. Background is concrete, so i geek out a little on that,  If you have rebar and control joints, unless the rebar is cut in the same place as the joint,  you did not accomplish Crap,   for what you pay to saw joint and saw bar,  go technical on the                 crete,  i use a Shrinkage Reducing Admix,  this will reduce cracking by 50-75%,   I poured a 6'' slab with rebar and ZERO joints,    this is so nice to have NO dust in joints on the floor,  and NO issues with heavy as equipment rolling the edge             of the sawed joint,   and    NO curling over time at the Joints,  

7. Best money spent was Westech Hi Mass UFO lighting,   if you do commercial UFO lighting make sure to wire it for a dimmer,   my shop is brighter inside than outside,  so welding with hi reflection in the back of the hood can be irritating,

8. I wish i had wired it for AC, outside temp was 120 and with heavy insulation the inside was 98 degrees,  if i wired it for AC, most likely would be installing it right now,         

 

[J Alper]

I have two shops on two different properties. One is a 40x60 the other is 30x48. Build the biggest shop you can fit and afford. You can never have too big but certainly can have too small. My 40x60 is a pole building, the 30x48 was a steel kit. Both work just as well. Here’s some mistakes I made:

1- the 30 x 48 is too narrow. Doors are on the long side so each bay is 30’ deep. Fit my needs at the time, but now I can’t put my Moho or bigger enclosed trailer in it. I’m also limited on boat size. I have one 12’ tall door and two 10’ tall doors. This was a big mistake. Really limits what I can get in.

2. The 40x60 is better, also has doors on the long side so bays are 40’ deep. But I only have one 14’ tall door and two 12’ tall doors. I have to park my Moho in the 14’ tall door bay. Now I’m eyeing a stacker and will have to modify to add another 14’ tall door. I’m also limited to a Moho under 40’. This limits my options as I look to upgrade. 

Some things I did right:

1. I prefer lots of doors/bays vs a door on the end. It gets crowded inside very quick if you have to jockey around trailers, boats and RV’s and you will greatly limit what you can get in/out. 
 

2. I highly recommend a bathroom, deep sink, and 220v power. Even if you think you don’t need these now, add the infrastructure if nothing else.

3. I have a dedicated repair bay with a 10k lift with extra height. One of the best investments I have ever made. You may want to reinforce the floor for a lift. Yes, they will work with 4” of concrete but 6” is much better.

4. I recommend building it tall so you can put in a storage loft. 

The Bathroom is one of my favorite features of the new garage/shop,  I don't i would even do a 4'' patio, if 4' cracks it typically will curl,  6'' is the least i would do, start with a good foundation, just like anyone,  

For me I only do sand cars so a mounted lift is just to much space,  floor space to me is money,    if you do not use a lift all the time,  check out the Single post portable lift, 

 

[Adam G]

im actually having my 50x60x14 started tomorrow.material is being delivered and the  footing guys coming to drill and set the posts also tomorrow,tuesday is my inspection and if all goes well the framing guys come on Wednesday to frame,2 garage doors on one side and 1 door on back so I can pull still straight through if I need.thay told me building will be done by Saturday afternoon then the garage doors are being installed on the 27th.building alone with doors and cultured stone 4' high across the front was 38,000.concrete floors I have prices from 9,800 to 14,000.i went with a pole barn cuz of price and time to complete.

Thanks for the details! I’ll have to look into pole barns. What part of the world are you in?

 

[Adam G]

I have two shops on two different properties. One is a 40x60 the other is 30x48. Build the biggest shop you can fit and afford. You can never have too big but certainly can have too small. My 40x60 is a pole building, the 30x48 was a steel kit. Both work just as well. Here’s some mistakes I made:

1- the 30 x 48 is too narrow. Doors are on the long side so each bay is 30’ deep. Fit my needs at the time, but now I can’t put my Moho or bigger enclosed trailer in it. I’m also limited on boat size. I have one 12’ tall door and two 10’ tall doors. This was a big mistake. Really limits what I can get in.

2. The 40x60 is better, also has doors on the long side so bays are 40’ deep. But I only have one 14’ tall door and two 12’ tall doors. I have to park my Moho in the 14’ tall door bay. Now I’m eyeing a stacker and will have to modify to add another 14’ tall door. I’m also limited to a Moho under 40’. This limits my options as I look to upgrade. 

Some things I did right:

1. I prefer lots of doors/bays vs a door on the end. It gets crowded inside very quick if you have to jockey around trailers, boats and RV’s and you will greatly limit what you can get in/out. 
 

2. I highly recommend a bathroom, deep sink, and 220v power. Even if you think you don’t need these now, add the infrastructure if nothing else.

3. I have a dedicated repair bay with a 10k lift with extra height. One of the best investments I have ever made. You may want to reinforce the floor for a lift. Yes, they will work with 4” of concrete but 6” is much better.

4. I recommend building it tall so you can put in a storage loft. 

Thanks so much! I totally understand your thoughts and concerns. I was planning on putting the doors on the short side to take advantage of the length. Maybe I’ll do some on the long side too. Bathroom seems like a no brainer along with 220. 

 

[Bigsammy]

First, congratulations for getting the the hell out of here! I had mine built a couple of years ago when things were a little less crazy. It's 50'x60'x18'. It did not take long to fill it up! I still had to add a RV garage to make some room! A couple of things I would suggest is: 1) put in a storage loft if you can, it will save you lots of room in the end. 2) if your going to store  an RV, put in at least 2 50 amp receptacles. 3) If your going to do any work on vehicles look around for a used car lift. The one I have is a 11,000 lb lift that I bought from a guy that just wanted to get rid of it. I paid $1000 for it and I use it all the time, it will save your back! 

Good luck!   

 

[Kraut_n_Rice]

 Bathroom seems like a no brainer.

If you're on septic, an additional bathroom can get challenging with codes.

 

[MWB]

If you're on septic, an additional bathroom can get challenging with codes.

If he is going to have an issue with the additional bathroom he is really going to have a challenge with the RV sewer connection.

 

[Adam G]

First, congratulations for getting the the hell out of here! I had mine built a couple of years ago when things were a little less crazy. It's 50'x60'x18'. It did not take long to fill it up! I still had to add a RV garage to make some room! A couple of things I would suggest is: 1) put in a storage loft if you can, it will save you lots of room in the end. 2) if your going to store  an RV, put in at least 2 50 amp receptacles. 3) If your going to do any work on vehicles look around for a used car lift. The one I have is a 11,000 lb lift that I bought from a guy that just wanted to get rid of it. I paid $1000 for it and I use it all the time, it will save your back! 

Good luck!   

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That looks AWESOME! 

 

[Adam G]

If he is going to have an issue with the additional bathroom he is really going to have a challenge with the RV sewer connection.

I just found out the septic tank and leach field is on the opposite side of the property from where I wanted to put the shop. This definitely could make it interesting for tying into the existing septic system. One suggestion I had was to install a separate system for the shop. Now we’re talking about adding even more to the budget. The wifies pool may have to get pushed back even further. 

 

[funco4lizzle]

I have no idea! That’s something to consider. I’m native to San Diego with its moderate temperatures and have never done much on the construction side of things. I can. Build your one mean engine and overhaul your boat, but carpentry and building practices are all foreign to me. 

Closed cell spray foam would be the way to go as far as insulation. its hot out here spend the extra on insulation. its worth it

 

[MWB]

I just found out the septic tank and leach field is on the opposite side of the property from where I wanted to put the shop. This definitely could make it interesting for tying into the existing septic system. One suggestion I had was to install a separate system for the shop. Now we’re talking about adding even more to the budget. The wifies pool may have to get pushed back even further. 

Then don't put in a bathroom or a sink. Just run water out to a hose bib on the outside of the garage.  

I would just wait until you have a nice green sticker and the permit is closed plus your pool is completed before you look into what a septic tank/ leach field actually is and how to build and maintain one. Then I am sure you will know weather or not you can build a small one on that side of your property.

 

[Brian Machnach]

you can put a sink and just run the drain outside to a pit with bluestone.my area in New Jersey is all sand so water don't stand a chance on  standing around.but im on a septic as well and mine is all the way up front like 300' from my new pole building. I own a plumbing and utility company so after inspection is done I will be putting in a bathroom and installing my own septic tank under the radar.ill make a small leach field and stone it but for as much as the bathroom will get used ill have my septic guy just pump it every year when he pumps my main tanks for the house.im gonna burry a 300 gallon plastic tank   to a small leach field as I own my own machines.but we did the same thing at my Buddys pole barn like 8 years ago and still never had a issue.he don't have a RV to dump into it and I don't plane on always dumping my RV but sometimes I get home from road trips and will have maybe a 1/4 to half of black or gray to dump in there. so my buddy  said sometimes when thay pump it and open lid the level is not even up to the outlet pipe.go on (national tank outlet) thay sell actual plastic septic tanks from like 50 gallons to well over 1,000 tanks and even  comes with lids and everything.thats what we did at my Buddys.i live on 3 acres and set way back kinda in woods so nobody will ever know and im still doing it rite just a small version.my lid will be set a grade with bluestone.

 

[Dunerking]

you can put a sink and just run the drain outside to a pit with bluestone.my area in New Jersey is all sand so water don't stand a chance on  standing around.but im on a septic as well and mine is all the way up front like 300' from my new pole building. I own a plumbing and utility company so after inspection is done I will be putting in a bathroom and installing my own septic tank under the radar.ill make a small leach field and stone it but for as much as the bathroom will get used ill have my septic guy just pump it every year when he pumps my main tanks for the house.im gonna burry a 300 gallon plastic tank   to a small leach field as I own my own machines.but we did the same thing at my Buddys pole barn like 8 years ago and still never had a issue.he don't have a RV to dump into it and I don't plane on always dumping my RV but sometimes I get home from road trips and will have maybe a 1/4 to half of black or gray to dump in there. so my buddy  said sometimes when thay pump it and open lid the level is not even up to the outlet pipe.go on (national tank outlet) thay sell actual plastic septic tanks from like 50 gallons to well over 1,000 tanks and even  comes with lids and everything.thats what we did at my Buddys.i live on 3 acres and set way back kinda in woods so nobody will ever know and im still doing it rite just a small version.my lid will be set a grade with bluestone.

This is what I’ll being doing when I put a “agricultural shed” on our property. For sure a septic system for a 1/2 bath and RV dump after the final sign off.

 

[J Alper]

Have help a couple of friends do garages, both did a French drain, basically you can make a small septic tank and add a small leach field out of wall bricks to make a small tank, this would not have a permit, but it really is nice having a toilet,    

 

[Justgetnby]

I just found out the septic tank and leach field is on the opposite side of the property from where I wanted to put the shop. This definitely could make it interesting for tying into the existing septic system. One suggestion I had was to install a separate system for the shop. Now we’re talking about adding even more to the budget. The wifies pool may have to get pushed back even further. 

They make ejection pumps that will push it there. Or gravity drain it all the way close to the front of the septic tank, then install a ejection tank and pump to pump it up into the tank.

Here is one I did on a shop last year like that.

 

[Brian Machnach]

They make ejection pumps that will push it there. Or gravity drain it all the way close to the front of the septic tank, then install a ejection tank and pump to pump it up into the tank.

Here is one I did on a shop last year like that.

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the problem with this set up  is the leach field is meant for liquid only.by I installing a ejector pump is it takes the solid and liquefies it but not enough of a liquid and its gets pasty.and over time sending that into the leach field it will clog the weeping holes in the pipes or tank and you will have back ups as the water will not drain through.now this is the theory the NJ plumbing code goes by for longer then I have been doing plumbing.so maybe its just sank in my brain this will happen.but for as expensive as septics are when Crap goes bad or to replace a leach field I would run it on a ejector pump but that's just me.i also have my tank pumped every year in july.i weather spend 500 bucks to pump my 1,500 gallon tank then to replace my leach field for 10 to 14,000 and have my front yard all dug up.soap is also a killer of septics so I also have removed my cloths washer from the plumbing system and have a gray well on the side of my house with a plastic 55 gallon drum loaded with blue stone.but for  for as much as you will use the bathroom at a   house/shop  chances are you will never have a problem cuz it will mostly be you just pissing in there.but for me trenching my yard and under fences and killing bushes and grass its easer for me to make a real mini septic outside my new pole barn, and my area is already all dug up so no extra propter  damage will accrue.

 

[Mac]

As mentioned, RV hook ups (inside and out), hose bibs in a few places (not just one).  220V maybe in a couple places, 110V EVERYWHERE!!!  Lots of big lights.  You have no idea how much you will want this.  My garage has lots of lights and outlets every 4-6 feet throughout.  It's awesome.  Also, bathroom with a sink, toilet, shower.  Deep sink in the shop.

Minisplit ACs are good.

 

[richard h]

Being almost a native of this state, if you have a choice put your overhead doors on the north side of your building. You'll thank me later. Second choice would be east side.

 

[J Alper]

As mentioned, RV hook ups (inside and out), hose bibs in a few places (not just one).  220V maybe in a couple places, 110V EVERYWHERE!!!  Lots of big lights.  You have no idea how much you will want this.  My garage has lots of lights and outlets every 4-6 feet throughout.  It's awesome.  Also, bathroom with a sink, toilet, shower.  Deep sink in the shop.

Minisplit ACs are good.

This is so true, someone told me to do 110V everywhere, i doubled what i was going to do, and still was not even close,  you can chain 8-10 together, i should have added way more, 

the price was not that different, i did all the 110v in 20Amp instead of 15Amp,  

HE-Electric twisted my arm to do a 50Amp RV box, it was the best thing i did,  use it all the time 

 

[Dockmaster]

Maybe someone mentioned it and I missed it, but give thought to where your compressor will go and then air piping. I put my compressor outside the shop in a little shed along the back corner then plumbed it in and ran piping all over and have like 6 hose reels. I barely hear it running. I went with the 1" pex type piping that you buy as a kit designed and rated for air service. Do not use PVC.