Old school cool.... J&J

Looks like a type 1 one trans

One tip, move the through bolts holding the boot together at 9 or 3 o’clock vs 12 o’clock is allows the boot to flex more gooder.

 
There is no seal.  The boot is the seal.  That boot looks after market, but I haven't had a VW since....early 90s?

I second the twisting it to 3 or 9 O'clock.  That is not an oil leak, as far as VWs go....   ;  ) 

I don't know where it is supposed to be positioned, as far as what the manual says.  But, as it is now, when the axle swings up, it has to fight that seam w/all those screws on it.

 
Get this book. It breaks down a VW as simple as it gets.

51kk-B80LML._SX373_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg


 
EmpirE231 said:
So this is totally standard? no seals that need to be fixed under there?
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Gear oil flows down to the bearings in the hub from the transaxle.  The swing axles are part of the fill.

 
If the leak stops i would be concerned, that means it is out of Oil, LOL 

over time you will want to have the one piece old school boots on,  no one really ran the 2 pieces on a car like this,  it was mostly seen on offroad and repairs,    O yes it is a total pain to put on the one piece boots, best for a transaxle shop to do that, due to the ends need to come off, 

also couple things to make it run good over time, 

  • On the side, of the carbs, carry extra accelerator pumps, that is the 4 screws that are in a square pattern, they can go out if it sits for to long, just change them every year, 
  • On the side, the idle jets, they need to be cleaned and blown out all the time,  sand gets in them and they clog up, the holes are super tiny, sometimes this is a daily deal,  if it starts popping a lot at idle start there, 
  • YOU WILL BE A MASTER, the solid lifters,  the lifters need to be adjusted all the time, i did mine every trip or every other trip,  i did one valve at a time,  rolled the motor over until the rocker was the loosesest and back and forth to make sure it was at the largest opening,  take your time do not short cut adjusting the valves,  
  • If  valve covers stop leaking, make sure there is oil in the motor LOL 
  • Adjusting the timing,  30-32 degrees max at FULL ADVACMENT -----THIS MEANS FULL REV---MAX TIMING 
  • Keep the oil cool, get a oil temp guage
  • Last - rear brakes, large 36mm socket make sure they are torqued to 250lbs all the time,  they come loose bad things happen, 

Every good duner started with a VW,  that thing is awsome, 

 
EmpirE231 said:
It has a cooler already... I haven't looked at it too closely, but assuming it is for the motor oil.

View attachment 12507
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I’m assuming there’s also a oil filter, make sure you let the oil warm up. My VW stroker motor would blow the oil filter apart if I reved it up without the oil temp up. Not sure if my relief spring was stuck on the case or if was plumed wrong just another thing to keep in mind 

 
Sweet car!

Replace anything rubber! That boot is toast. Changing them out will save your first trip. 
 

Replace any and all fuel lines. 
 

Go thru the car and get a good baseline for it now. It will save hassles in the future. 
 

These cars are like art! Congrats

 
SWEET!!!!!!!   That rail reminds me of the 80s When I used to get down with all the ladies!

 
matt86m said:
Sweet car!

Replace anything rubber! That boot is toast. Changing them out will save your first trip. 
 

Replace any and all fuel lines. 
 

Go thru the car and get a good baseline for it now. It will save hassles in the future. 
 

These cars are like art! Congrats
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Thanks man! definitely art!

Makes me want to grow my hair out, grab a six'r of Budweiser and shred some buttery dunes.  

 
Drupanddown said:
I’m assuming there’s also a oil filter, make sure you let the oil warm up. My VW stroker motor would blow the oil filter apart if I reved it up without the oil temp up. Not sure if my relief spring was stuck on the case or if was plumed wrong just another thing to keep in mind 
Click to expand...
Need to run the HP1 or whatever equivalent part number:

https://www.fram.com/media/1075/fram-racing-filter-sell-sheet.pdf

Standard filters are built for lower pressure.  

 
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