LT advice

J Alper said:
2D car with a 4 banger should be around 25K,   I dont think i would do a VW box, you will see a lot of Bus boxes with 4 bangers or 6 gun,   they are tempting,  but unless you are a duner for life and plan on making it your religion, make sure it has a Mendi, 

S4 is 10 time stronger in my opinion, but a S4 car i would think is going to start around 45K  
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Gotcha! Not sure I’ll be spending that much. Sounds pretty bada$$

 
GBR said:
Search trans axle thread  or go to forums then Sandrail tech it is about 4 pages in Sean has a lot of good info and answers a lot faq. Good luck with your search for a car good places to look str8uptoytrader and race  dezert both usually have many cars for sale 
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This one?

 
Kraut_n_Rice said:
One thing that most people miss are the repair costs.  Buying a $40k sandcar is one thing.  Maintaining that car so that it provides continued fun is another thing.  A few grand in the off season isn't uncommon.  Don't buy more car than you can afford the upkeep on...
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This ^^^

These cars are a money pit no matter what. And something else comes to mind. The wind can blow and the dunes are torn up from duner's within hours for most of the season. A smaller car with smaller tires will ride rougher in the chop. I agree with a name brand car. Also remember that a car that is great at wheelies may not turn as good. It will push the front end. See if you can go for a ride in the same car as you want to buy. S4 vs 2d. Don't even get me started. I broke my 2d to many times and love the S4 now. To bad soooo much got lost when this site crashed.

 
onanysunday said:
I broke my 2d to many times and love the S4 now.
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I now own this 2d. I have it in back of a Honda j35a4, Had it freshened once and have never had any issues with it. I am fully aware of how to use reverse so not to break it. My car is smaller and lighter than what yours is.. Every little bit helps it live a little longer.

 
It also has a lot to do with how you drive. If you like running the whoops all the time or jacking the clutch for wheelies than the trans won’t last as long. Tons of ways to keep a trans together with better driving habits. In the end, the 2d won’t last as long as the S4.

 
onanysunday said:
This ^^^

These cars are a money pit no matter what. And something else comes to mind. The wind can blow and the dunes are torn up from duner's within hours for most of the season. A smaller car with smaller tires will ride rougher in the chop. I agree with a name brand car. Also remember that a car that is great at wheelies may not turn as good. It will push the front end. See if you can go for a ride in the same car as you want to buy. S4 vs 2d. Don't even get me started. I broke my 2d to many times and love the S4 now. To bad soooo much got lost when this site crashed.
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Great info. Yes, I plan on maintaining it during the off season. That’s why I’m weighing my options right now. I appreciate all the info. Both good and bad

 
You've heard the argument for the best trans that you can get AND, it is quite logical argument/

Next question, what motor?  That brings us to several different Qs.....Computer vs Non-Computer.   How big?

You'll save a boat-load of money by not using a computer.  AND, it will be way easier to figure out why it doesn't run riight.  But, you might not ever have to do dat w/a computer (They run good, pretty much all the time)

There are several carbed motors that come to mind....150-200HP is plenty.  For that matter, in a 1,200# rail, 125HP is plenty.

a 85-87 4.3 from a PU.  They come w/a Q-jet manifold and a HEI, or one w/a TBI manifold (it needs an HEI and an electric FP, and 12V to run)

A 3.0 NIssan V-6 from a D21, or from any other w/an adapter or carb manifold (like from a 300Z, D21, Maxima, or Villager, a 300K mile motor)

A 350 up to 2002 only needs a manifold, HEI, (12V) and an electric FP to run.  For that matter, any Chevy 4.3 or 350 only needs a carb manifold, an HEI  w/12V, and an electirc FP to run.  You can find the base for $500, easy.  Then you need an expensive manifold, gear for the HEI and gas....easily under $2K.

A 302 Ford....is light, compact and available.  I once saw a WaterPumper w/a 302 in it wheelie like a MF on Competition, w/Armstrong Tru-Tracs on it (street tires), then it rolled 3x on the way down.   Easily under $2K

A 2.3, 2.4, 2.5 Ford Ranger 4 banger, reliable, and screams w/a big 2bbl on it.

The list goes on and on.  All of the above can be had for under $2K, easy, depending on how you find it.... very possibly under $2K after being rebuilt.  

BTW,  I am not sure that I like the idea of a computer.  But, if you do....Put in a STOCK MOTOR

Honda 3,something V6, like from an Accord or Oddysey (a 300k mile motor....the last one I had, in the last month that I had it, I almost hit a deer at 96, and at 291K-M it din't use any oil).  These make as much HP as the 350 in my '86 Suburban did....225-250

EcoTec

Toyota V-6

2.2 Camry Motor....125HP, or more, stock

Honda 4 cylinder...there is one that makes 200HP, several have 16valves and make 125HP

Subaru, not a fan of them, but many folks are

Stay the hell away from a V-Dub....an unreliable money pit IMHO.  For what a 2,000+cc motor costs, you can do a LOT better.  I remember when they only used to cost a $ per CC.  It is at least twice that now.

The list of good motors is quite extensive....but, if you are going this way....V-6.

 
Stinky said:
You've heard the argument for the best trans that you can get AND, it is quite logical argument/

Next question, what motor?  That brings us to several different Qs.....Computer vs Non-Computer.   How big?

You'll save a boat-load of money by not using a computer.  AND, it will be way easier to figure out why it doesn't run riight.  But, you might not ever have to do dat w/a computer (They run good, pretty much all the time)

There are several carbed motors that come to mind....150-200HP is plenty.  For that matter, in a 1,200# rail, 125HP is plenty.

a 85-87 4.3 from a PU.  They come w/a Q-jet manifold and a HEI, or one w/a TBI manifold (it needs an HEI and an electric FP, and 12V to run)

A 3.0 NIssan V-6 from a D21, or from any other w/an adapter or carb manifold (like from a 300Z, D21, Maxima, or Villager, a 300K mile motor)

A 350 up to 2002 only needs a manifold, HEI, (12V) and an electric FP to run.  For that matter, any Chevy 4.3 or 350 only needs a carb manifold, an HEI  w/12V, and an electirc FP to run.  You can find the base for $500, easy.  Then you need an expensive manifold, gear for the HEI and gas....easily under $2K.

A 302 Ford....is light, compact and available.  I once saw a WaterPumper w/a 302 in it wheelie like a MF on Competition, w/Armstrong Tru-Tracs on it (street tires), then it rolled 3x on the way down.   Easily under $2K

A 2.3, 2.4, 2.5 Ford Ranger 4 banger, reliable, and screams w/a big 2bbl on it.

The list goes on and on.  All of the above can be had for under $2K, easy, depending on how you find it.... very possibly under $2K after being rebuilt.  

BTW,  I am not sure that I like the idea of a computer.  But, if you do....Put in a STOCK MOTOR

Honda 3,something V6, like from an Accord or Oddysey (a 300k mile motor....the last one I had, in the last month that I had it, I almost hit a deer at 96, and at 291K-M it din't use any oil).  These make as much HP as the 350 in my '86 Suburban did....225-250

EcoTec

Toyota V-6

2.2 Camry Motor....125HP, or more, stock

Honda 4 cylinder...there is one that makes 200HP, several have 16valves and make 125HP

Subaru, not a fan of them, but many folks are

Stay the hell away from a V-Dub....an unreliable money pit IMHO.  For what a 2,000+cc motor costs, you can do a LOT better.  I remember when they only used to cost a $ per CC.  It is at least twice that now.

The list of good motors is quite extensive....but, if you are going this way....V-6.
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Uh, fuq a carburated anything (that isn't a bike) in the dunes.

You can have 300hp of fuel injected reliability for under $2500 (with adapter plate/flywheel) if you put the tiniest bit of work into sourcing stuff.

 
No computer and carb?  

That brings back the 60's.....  LOL.

No way, use modern stuff.

Fuel injected, computer etc

Believe us, you don't want to have a 1 off set up out in the dunes.

Unless you are going to carry a ton of spare parts, run what other people do so when you have an issue, you can swap parts from a buddy, run into Auto Zone, go see Joe Fab etc etc.

 
I won't even buy a bike anymore without FI, why would you want to go back to 1960's technology?

Depending on Budget and how much power you need, go with Subie, Honda or LS.  You can run into any Autoparts store in town and pick up parts if needed, in most cases.  If you are not a racer, 2D tranny will hold up if you are sub 425hp.  Less power less upkeep (especially cost).  I average 20-25 days a year in the dunes, my yearly cost for upkeep is $1800.  I run a Honda 3.5 turbo at 425hp with a 2D tranny.  I refresh the tranny every three years for roughly $2k (that is included in my yearly upkeep).  

I do all of the labor though, so that saves a lot of money.

 
Cookie said:
I won't even buy a bike anymore without FI, why would you want to go back to 1960's technology?

Depending on Budget and how much power you need, go with Subie, Honda or LS.  You can run into any Autoparts store in town and pick up parts if needed, in most cases.  If you are not a racer, 2D tranny will hold up if you are sub 425hp.  Less power less upkeep (especially cost).  I average 20-25 days a year in the dunes, my yearly cost for upkeep is $1800.  I run a Honda 3.5 turbo at 425hp with a 2D tranny.  I refresh the tranny every three years for roughly $2k (that is included in my yearly upkeep).  

I do all of the labor though, so that saves a lot of money.
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IMO the later FI and ecu stuff is the MOST reliable and almost never causes issues. I would never consider anything else.

 
I see that “stock” LS stuff is the cheapest. Looking at Ecotec but, Honda seems pretty stout too

 
I dunno....I just picked up the Suburban today.  My mechanic has 2 cars that they have no idea what.so.ever as to why they won't start.  The wiring is FUBAR somewheres.  One is a 2002 Maxima and the other is a TBI Chevy PU.

 
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