INTEREST INQUIRY: Lightweight Alumicraft Mid Engine Car- Turn Key for $100k

I think is a great idea, I will catch flack for saying this but with that engine at 350-400 hp I think a 2D and 930's would be a better choice, way less mass to get turning. Ive had quite a few closed deck Subaru Funco's and the 2d / 930 cars were noticeably faster / more responsive. Maybe take the extra coin and put it into 3" bypass' in the rear. 
I have also owned both, but the nice part of 934 and s5 is the longer intervals between service... especially with this weight. 

SCU is going to have something light & 2-seat in the near future. The new 4-seat chassis is already surprising light for such a big car. The $100k mark is going to be difficult but I think it’s doable if you skip on the unnecessary BS. SU also has a 2-seat rear engine in production. 
SCU and Alumicraft are on two different playing fields. 

 
What does "isn't that drastic" mean? 100 pounds is drastic in this application. We are shaving every pound to stay at 1550lbs in our Alumicraft 1600. You can feel a 20 pound difference in the seat. 
Meaning it isn't a 175lb difference, unless a K24 with adapter, flywheel, clutch, exhaust, etc. is only 190lbs.

 
I have also owned both, but the nice part of 934 and s5 is the longer intervals between service... especially with this weight. 

SCU and Alumicraft are on two different playing fields. 
The new SCU is on another level, its going to raise the bar. I have been searching for a older 2-seat Alumicraft for my kids. If Alumicraft makes this car you are talking about I might be interested in getting 2 chassis. We modified an old Sand Limo and the car is a blast for them with a 2.5 turbo subi but I agree the 2D is the weak link, they broke 2 in one season. 

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I like the light weight mid engine concept. Any idea what the total weight and weight distribution will be?

 
This is a naturally aspirated 360 hp 4 cylinder. I like the Honda because of weight, power potential for the $ and reliability. 

I know John will see this and likely disagree. I loved my 2.5 that John just built me, but leaning toward honda for the above reasons. 
The $ and reliability part is probably on par with a 350/400HP Subi.  The K24 you are referencing is $12k just for the long block....

 
Why are we questioning the motor or trans combo? We are talking about a turnkey, 100% dialed in, bad azz dune car built by the best in the industry for only $100k! Yes a 2d with 930’s is lighter with less rotating mass but also won’t last near as long. I think this concept is awesome and has been long awaited. 

 
what are the biggest changes from alumicraft's 1600 chassis and the 10 class chassis?  Are the 1600 chassis all beam cars?

 
Why are we questioning the motor or trans combo? We are talking about a turnkey, 100% dialed in, bad azz dune car built by the best in the industry for only $100k! Yes a 2d with 930’s is lighter with less rotating mass but also won’t last near as long. I think this concept is awesome and has been long awaited. 
There is a lot of myth surrounding 930 cvs, sure they will break apart if spinning 35s with 500+hp at 26 or more degrees while using chromoly stars and cages. However, when you rework your axle angles down to less than 20 and install 300m internals they become quite reliable, and a lot less harsh on the transaxle. I use them with little issue. I do agree 934 gear is stronger and more robust, and allows for a lot of flexability when setting up the rear suspension of a car, but when done right a 930 is a very good option. 

 
There is a lot of myth surrounding 930 cvs, sure they will break apart if spinning 35s with 500+hp at 26 or more degrees while using chromoly stars and cages. However, when you rework your axle angles down to less than 20 and install 300m internals they become quite reliable, and a lot less harsh on the transaxle. I use them with little issue. I do agree 934 gear is stronger and more robust, and allows for a lot of flexability when setting up the rear suspension of a car, but when done right a 930 is a very good option. 
I do agree that properly set up a 930cv and even a 2d will last longer than usual. I’m just an advocate of overkill to keep the seasons long and downtime short. I had a 2600 lb sand car with 934 and s4 trans. It only had a 500hp ls1. In the 6 seasons I had the car, all I ever did was clean and repack the cvs every season. Never replaced a single part in the cvs and only went into the trans once from driver error. Running a lighter car will only make all of that last even longer!

 
Why are we questioning the motor or trans combo? We are talking about a turnkey, 100% dialed in, bad azz dune car built by the best in the industry for only $100k! Yes a 2d with 930’s is lighter with less rotating mass but also won’t last near as long. I think this concept is awesome and has been long awaited. 
If you don't blow $15k on a spicy 350hp 4cyl race engine, when a $1k junk yard V6 will probably work better....you can spend the money elsewhere...or just turn your $100k car into one that is sub 90.  The difference would be even greater when engine management comes into play.  What does a custom Holley set up for a K series run?  I'll sell you a complete harness/ecu for a J series for under a grand.  Now this same car is $85k.  More takers?  Probably.

Having more exotic/custom stuff makes sense when you are approaching 1000hp.  When you are 3-400, why make it so complicated?  The weight comparison becomes even more of a non-issue if a guy wants more HP.  Now you're going to hang 100lbs of turbo kit on it to double the the power.  For less weight, complexity, and bullchit you could just drop in a build LS and run pump gas.  And, it would be less "work" to drive. 

Honestly, what Reese has proposed is almost my dream car.  But the engine package would turn me away.  Don't get me wrong, I love a K series, just not for this.

 
If you don't blow $15k on a spicy 350hp 4cyl race engine, when a $1k junk yard V6 will probably work better....you can spend the money elsewhere...or just turn your $100k car into one that is sub 90.  The difference would be even greater when engine management comes into play.  What does a custom Holley set up for a K series run?  I'll sell you a complete harness/ecu for a J series for under a grand.  Now this same car is $85k.  More takers?  Probably.

Having more exotic/custom stuff makes sense when you are approaching 1000hp.  When you are 3-400, why make it so complicated?  The weight comparison becomes even more of a non-issue if a guy wants more HP.  Now you're going to hang 100lbs of turbo kit on it to double the the power.  For less weight, complexity, and bullchit you could just drop in a build LS and run pump gas.  And, it would be less "work" to drive. 

Honestly, what Reese has proposed is almost my dream car.  But the engine package would turn me away.  Don't get me wrong, I love a K series, just not for this.
I do completely understand what your saying. For me, I would go your route. Understandably, you will eventually want more power so the turbo would be next. As you said more added weight for turbo kit with inter cooler. Also, the drivability with the new found HP! In the end, it’s his build sheet. Just didn’t want to crap on his thread. 

 
I want to build an interest list for an idea I have been brewing up for awhile. 

As many of you know, I am a die hard Alumicraft racer/duner. I have had the opportunity to own and drive many different cars (600 hp Mazzone, 87hp 1600 car, 850hp class 1) and found the most fun I could have in the dunes is with a car that is balanced, light weight, gets out of the hole, and can handle some whoops.  I am playing with the idea of spec'ing a light weight car from Alumicraft and want to see if anyone else would be interested. I included some basic info below, but the idea is to create the ultimate pocket rocket for $100k. 

Chassis: Alumicraft pro buggy, widened to a 2 seater, mid engine, extended trailing arms

Trans: Weddle S5

Shocks: Fox 2.5 IBP Front, 2.0 rear coil & 2.5 rear bypass

Hubs: Proam 2" hollow front & 934 Midboard Microstub Kit

Engine: 350-400HP N/A 4 Piston Racing K24 Endurance Racing Engine (Can go to 500-750hp turbo, but will put budget over $100k)

Electronics: Holly ECU & basic wiring

Please reply if this is something you would be interested in.  Please don't comment on this post if you aren't serious about building a new car or if you are a Buckshot fan; you aren't welcome here. 
I really like the idea, what wheel base did you have in mind?

 
There is nothing with a lower C ofG than a subaru. It doesn’t matter how much you spend on other motor packages even if you spend $50k on the motor it can’t be made to have a lower CofG. Now I know that’s not the only goal in a motor package. Btw I’m not biased at all!  Cool idea. Maybe I should work on that single seater again!

 
K24 would be more fun to drive than an LS.  More difficult, yes, but since there aren't lap times out there 99.9% of weekends, keeping the K24 on boil through the 5 speed would be a lot of fun by itself with the right mindset.  

My question: would an S5/934s be a good matchup for a 360hp NA K24?  It's not going to clear 200lb-ft of torque, so unless you're going for absolutely indestructible, seems like a waste of horsepower and weight (75lbs between axles and trans?).

@Kraut_n_Rice NA K24 would be significantly lighter than an LS (100lbs?), would need less cooling package weight, and probably let you get away with a lighter chassis as well.  Maybe 150-ish lbs by the time you get done?  

 
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