Heat exchanger help

GLAMIS WEATHER
JM PRO

JM PRO

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2021
Messages
280
Reaction score
259
Hi team,

I've read all the other threads we have on this site and appreciate everyone's input. The current project I am working on is a 383 stroker, with Eaton M112 supercharger at 8 pounds of boost. Car will be running E85.

I've got 2 options I have at this stage of the game.

(Option 1)
Buy the Mishimoto heat exchanger that is 26" long x 7" high and 2.25 thick. Add 3 8" fans to it. It will be located behind the crdboard gas tank and below the mid rail. There will be a panel covering the gas tank and mid rail. This location will get very little air flow so fans have to do most the work.

(Option 2)
I have a new cherokee radiator that I bought for a project and never used. It measures 35 x 11.5 x 2.5. Has 3 10" fans. As you can see in the pics, it will be roughly 50% above mid rail and get much better air flow.

My question boils down to how much do we need to keep that intake charge cool. Will option 1 with the hidden, cleaner packaging work totally fine or option 2 is the must. I can also raise the Mishimoto heat exchanger up above mid rail as well for more air.



I am all ears.
IMG_8651.jpegIMG_8652.jpegIMG_8653.jpeg
 
Superchargers Achilles heel is intake temps. So keeping the the charge air cool is how you make power.
 
Getting the heat exchanger out in clean air as much as possible is ideal.
Also get as big of a heat exchanger as you can fit.
Good pump is key and -12 lines.
I learned the hard way on pump and size. :)
 
first thing you have going for you is keeping the boost to 8lbs. that right there will see air temps of 150-160. high but not unmanageable.

second is using e85 which has a great natural intercooling effect. although dont expect to be able to see the temp drop if you have port injection and your IAT sensor is in the plenum.

you can't oversize the cooler. put the water cooler. put the biggest thing in you can. I would also put a temp sensor in the cooler flow at the outlet so you can keep an eye on it. fans may be necessary if you have limited airflow, but only necessary to run under boost.
 
lincster said:
Getting the heat exchanger out in clean air as much as possible is ideal.
Also get as big of a heat exchanger as you can fit.
Good pump is key and -12 lines.
I learned the hard way on pump and size. :)
Click to expand...
Yep. No such thing as too much pump flow when cooling. The slower the flow, the greater the temp delta, which means the coolant leaving the exchanger is warmer.
 
Rockwood said:
Yep. No such thing as too much pump flow when cooling. The slower the flow, the greater the temp delta, which means the coolant leaving the exchanger is warmer.
Click to expand...
All said, you do run into a point of diminishing returns as the brick in the lid will usually be the limiting factor. On a factory LSA brick I have seen the IAT climb under heavy use while the water temp out of the HEX was constant.
 
Goatpoker said:
All said, you do run into a point of diminishing returns as the brick in the lid will usually be the limiting factor. On a factory LSA brick I have seen the IAT climb under heavy use while the water temp out of the HEX was constant.
Click to expand...
Yeah. Only so much it can do.
 
My DD car will be the Wing on the roof area for the heat Exchanger, i welded two, exchangers together to make one that is 45'' by 11,

I get a lot of boosted engines with Detonation, I like to Dune Hard, and we do not like to stop for heating issues, so everyone in our dune hard group has a huge exchanger, or runs 110 octane,

with 110 octane on 9.5cr you can take it up to 210 maybe 220 depends on the timing, on 91 i would not go past 165,

I mix 87 octane with 110 octane to get around 98, my air temps run around ambient, my heat exchanger has 4 11'' fans it is bigger than my radiator,


I have also done four cars with this Kartek one, but the one i made is 10'' bigger than this one

CBR Ecotec 35x11.5 Single Pass Aluminum Radiator With Fans And Built In Surge Tank - Kartek Off-Road

CBR Ecotec 35x11.5 Single Pass Aluminum Radiator With Fans And Built In Surge Tank for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk...
www.kartek.com www.kartek.com
 
J Alper said:
My DD car will be the Wing on the roof area for the heat Exchanger, i welded two, exchangers together to make one that is 45'' by 11,

I get a lot of boosted engines with Detonation, I like to Dune Hard, and we do not like to stop for heating issues, so everyone in our dune hard group has a huge exchanger, or runs 110 octane,

with 110 octane on 9.5cr you can take it up to 210 maybe 220 depends on the timing, on 91 i would not go past 165,

I mix 87 octane with 110 octane to get around 98, my air temps run around ambient, my heat exchanger has 4 11'' fans it is bigger than my radiator,


I have also done four cars with this Kartek one, but the one i made is 10'' bigger than this one

CBR Ecotec 35x11.5 Single Pass Aluminum Radiator With Fans And Built In Surge Tank - Kartek Off-Road

CBR Ecotec 35x11.5 Single Pass Aluminum Radiator With Fans And Built In Surge Tank for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk...
www.kartek.com www.kartek.com
Click to expand...
210 to 220 IAT?????

WOW!!!!!
I run 95-110 IAT with a 2.3L Maggie and 14 lbs of boost.

Others in my group run max maybe 145 when we are drag racing.

I would be pulling some serious timing at temps that high, no matter what fuel is being ran.
 
The Desert Bars Look Great!!, that is a tough angle to hit and a crazy long notch, good work.
 
JM PRO said:
Hi team,

I've read all the other threads we have on this site and appreciate everyone's input. The current project I am working on is a 383 stroker, with Eaton M112 supercharger at 8 pounds of boost. Car will be running E85.

I've got 2 options I have at this stage of the game.

(Option 1)
Buy the Mishimoto heat exchanger that is 26" long x 7" high and 2.25 thick. Add 3 8" fans to it. It will be located behind the crdboard gas tank and below the mid rail. There will be a panel covering the gas tank and mid rail. This location will get very little air flow so fans have to do most the work.

(Option 2)
I have a new cherokee radiator that I bought for a project and never used. It measures 35 x 11.5 x 2.5. Has 3 10" fans. As you can see in the pics, it will be roughly 50% above mid rail and get much better air flow.

My question boils down to how much do we need to keep that intake charge cool. Will option 1 with the hidden, cleaner packaging work totally fine or option 2 is the must. I can also raise the Mishimoto heat exchanger up above mid rail as well for more air.



I am all ears.
Click to expand...
I appear to be using the same intercooler under the blower that you are. My 3300 Whipple running 8-9 psi will easily see 160 degrees running 4000rpm. If I cruise under 2500 rpm the temps will stay around 120. On a harder run with more throttle and more rpm i've seen over 200 degrees. My heat exchanger is made by Afco and very similar to your #1 option. I'm using a Pierburg CWA100 pump. I'm only monitoring IAT at the moment. I haven't added sensors to see what the temps are before and after the heat exchanger, but the heat exchanger is never hot to the touch. The blower and manifold will burn you after a dune run.
 
Thank you everyone for responding.

We chose to run option #2. Hopefully it will provide enough cooling.

IMG_8760.jpeg

IMG_8761.jpeg

IMG_8762.jpeg
 
The fuel tank is right up the ass of the heat exchanger for air flow. The card board tank is calculating to just over 20 gallons. I was shooting for 22 gallons.
 
Kansas T said:
I appear to be using the same intercooler under the blower that you are. My 3300 Whipple running 8-9 psi will easily see 160 degrees running 4000rpm. If I cruise under 2500 rpm the temps will stay around 120. On a harder run with more throttle and more rpm i've seen over 200 degrees. My heat exchanger is made by Afco and very similar to your #1 option. I'm using a Pierburg CWA100 pump. I'm only monitoring IAT at the moment. I haven't added sensors to see what the temps are before and after the heat exchanger, but the heat exchanger is never hot to the touch. The blower and manifold will burn you after a dune run.
Click to expand...

Are you running E85 or pump gas?
 
Kansas T said:
I appear to be using the same intercooler under the blower that you are. My 3300 Whipple running 8-9 psi will easily see 160 degrees running 4000rpm. If I cruise under 2500 rpm the temps will stay around 120. On a harder run with more throttle and more rpm i've seen over 200 degrees. My heat exchanger is made by Afco and very similar to your #1 option. I'm using a Pierburg CWA100 pump. I'm only monitoring IAT at the moment. I haven't added sensors to see what the temps are before and after the heat exchanger, but the heat exchanger is never hot to the touch. The blower and manifold will burn you after a dune run.
Click to expand...
I started with the CWA100 and went to the 400. Much better flow and the characteristics between the 2 pumps when Pierburg overlays them is quite different.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top