CV’s Clicking

Johnny said:
They are a little louder when I am turning at low speeds.
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What Johnny said ^^^
This is what is funny to me, I notice them clicking most when just barely puttering while leaving camp or going slow with low throttle. My motor is so loud I probably don’t notice them if I’m romping on it, but I don’t have enough body roll when going 3mph and turning. They increase in sound the sharper the turn, from non existent while going straight, to loud with the wheel turned all the way. 
 

John@Outfront said:
For argument sake have you ever worked on a car where  at full droop the axle bind while turning the wheel?  Specifically six times in one rotation?

just asking yes or no?  Have you ever been on a dyno and seen the axle have a cyclical back and forth?  Specifically a frequency of 6 times a revelation ?
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no. And I feel like you’re mad at me because I haven’t… 😎😂

Tyman said:
My experience is if they are making noise you will soon have a problem.  I second the limit strap question.  Jack up the back end off the ground and rotate the drive wheels.  If the are clicking try a shorter strap.   
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Tried what you suggested. They are quiet. I was kinda hoping they made noise so maybe it would narrow it down. 

L.R.S. said:
Indexing CVs, aka clocking. It is myth and serives no purpose other than fodder for this website. I prep 20 sets of CVs a year and have never clocked/indexed and set. 
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So what would you suggest? I follow your IG and have seen that you do a lot of these. Does anybody come back to you and say they are still clicking even after you change out a set? If so, what remedies it? 

 
Have they always? Are you sure the axels aren’t a tad too long and you’re hearing them rolling in the cup? 

 
When diving slow the back end of your car will sit higher. So cresting over dunes slowly or turning sharp slowly will allow the car to roll to one side extending your shock fully and binding the cv to where it clicks. Going faster the ass end will squat giving less angle keeping the cv from binding. All of this has been stated already. In order to fix this, you need to shorten your limit straps. Jack the back of the car up and rotate the wheels by hand. You will hear and feel them clicking. Shorten the straps so you don’t feel them bind anymore and then shorten them a 1/2” more. Since your straps are new they will stretch so if you only shorten them just enough you will be doing it again very shortly. 

 
The debate has gone on forever about clocking or not clocking a cv. I have had buggies that never needed clocking but I have also owned a car that needed it. So to say that it’s never needed and does nothing is false. What I have found is the higher grade manufactures spent a lot of time dialing in the geometry of the suspension and the correct placement of the transmission and didn’t need the cvs clocked or even limit straps. Then there are the other manufactures that didn’t quite get it right! I understand they are constant velocity and by all means it shouldn’t matter but for some strange reason it does.

 
^^^  exactly ^^^ ,  i dont typically clock CVs either.  95% of the time.   i dont, but there are some setups that it can help

if the axle angle and length are set up correctly (probably like all the cars LRS works on), then there would be zero reason to clock the CV,  And LRS can say its a myth for any cars he has ever set up --ever!  I agree!

constant velocity is the term for the joint, and does a pretty good job of doing just that when the set up is also correct

However, if the axle is a little too short (even if the angles are ok) it pulls on both stars. when this happens, 100% of the time it will develop 6 easy spots and 6 binding spots per revolution. To prove this why would the inner boot flang have 6 witness marks if it was always constant velocity?  This is a FACT (please explain otherwise) I might add that in a "poor set up" they are also not "constant velocity" any more either.  if the inner and outer cv's were clocked in like manner then the pushing and pulling of the "too short of axle" would be in sync and have less binding for the poorly set up car.

Now why would you want all GD readers to know that its a myth?  just because you will probably never encounter it with the cars you work on doesnt mean its a myth for the world, clearly there are testimonies of those that it helps--or are they just crazy?

it could benefit a setup up from having less binding,  sure the right answer is to buy longer axles or possibly put on limit straps to reduce axle angle

But to say it could "NEVER" help is False

Just to be clear Jeff and i agree that CV's dont need to be clocked 95% of the time

 
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John@Outfront said:
^^^  exactly ^^^ ,  i dont typically clock CVs either.  95% of the time.   i dont, but there are some setups that it can help

if the axle angle and length are set up correctly (probably like all the cars LRS works on), then there would be zero reason to clock the CV,  And LRS can say its a myth for any cars he has ever set up --ever!  I agree!

constant velocity is the term for the joint, and does a pretty good job of doing just that when the set up is also correct

However, if the axle is a little too short (even if the angles are ok) it pulls on both stars. when this happens, 100% of the time it will develop 6 easy spots and 6 binding spots per revolution. To prove this why would the inner boot flang have 6 witness marks if it was always constant velocity?  This is a FACT (please explain otherwise) I might add that in a "poor set up" they are also not "constant velocity" any more either.  if the inner and outer cv's were clocked in like manner then the pushing and pulling of the "too short of axle" would be in sync and have less binding for the poorly set up car.

Now why would you want all GD readers to know that its a myth?  just because you will probably never encounter it with the cars you work on doesnt mean its a myth for the world, clearly there are testimonies of those that it helps--or are they just crazy?

it could benefit a setup up from having less binding,  sure the right answer is to buy longer axles or possibly put on limit straps to reduce axle angle

But to say it could "NEVER" help is False

Just to be clear Jeff and i agree that CV's dont need to be clocked 95% of the time
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So, when you have them out for service why not just go ahead and clock them? It is such a simple thing to do and there after won't be a concern. Go ahead and eliminate the chance of being in the 5% group.

 
John@Outfront said:
^^^  exactly ^^^ ,  i dont typically clock CVs either.  95% of the time.   i dont, but there are some setups that it can help

if the axle angle and length are set up correctly (probably like all the cars LRS works on), then there would be zero reason to clock the CV,  And LRS can say its a myth for any cars he has ever set up --ever!  I agree!

constant velocity is the term for the joint, and does a pretty good job of doing just that when the set up is also correct

However, if the axle is a little too short (even if the angles are ok) it pulls on both stars. when this happens, 100% of the time it will develop 6 easy spots and 6 binding spots per revolution. To prove this why would the inner boot flang have 6 witness marks if it was always constant velocity?  This is a FACT (please explain otherwise) I might add that in a "poor set up" they are also not "constant velocity" any more either.  if the inner and outer cv's were clocked in like manner then the pushing and pulling of the "too short of axle" would be in sync and have less binding for the poorly set up car.

Now why would you want all GD readers to know that its a myth?  just because you will probably never encounter it with the cars you work on doesnt mean its a myth for the world, clearly there are testimonies of those that it helps--or are they just crazy?

it could benefit a setup up from having less binding,  sure the right answer is to buy longer axles or possibly put on limit straps to reduce axle angle

But to say it could "NEVER" help is False

Just to be clear Jeff and i agree that CV's dont need to be clocked 95% of the time
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Get you through your weekend when you ran a new setup and found out they click? Sure. 

But all of the above 5% scenarios should be fixed and set up correctly or it’ll eventually end in tears on the strap. In my group, that means you get to rock this guy as your flag the rest of the weekend or until someone else screws the group:

image.jpeg

Some of you may have seen that flag and wondered Why the F someone was rocking it. Now you know. Please point and laugh. :biggrin:

 
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BONES said:
My CV’s click when the car is turning. Is this normal?  I have had professionals tell me conflicting points of view. I have had them replaced already and done professionally, and they still click, quite loudly. I just wanted to get they general consensus from you guys on here, maybe @J Alper will chime in, I always respect his knowledge, and others as well. 
LS1, 2D, 33 Stu sand blasters, and I believe they are 930’s (?) 

Geez, I love this car! I just want to make sure I stay on top of everything and keep her in the best shape possible. Thanks in  advance. 

View attachment 19578

View attachment 19579
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back to your issue. who did the work? if you did, did you re-assemble the star/cage/body back together correctly? if you flipped the cage to the wrong side, it can cause this issue. 

any pics of the CV's? your axle size in the pic makes me think you have 934's on there. 

besides pulling the cv apart for cleaning and inspection, was anything else done to them? (IE, sanding the cage or star for sharp edges, flipping the star due to wear, changing any parts)

 
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richard h said:
So, when you have them out for service why not just go ahead and clock them? It is such a simple thing to do and there after won't be a concern. Go ahead and eliminate the chance of being in the 5% group.
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This is what I do. I do clock them, but if I get them all together and realize I forgot, I don't take everything apart just to clock them.

 
Those look like 934's.

Clocking, flipping etc won't matter with 934's.

I have never clocked and I flip my stars each summer and don't pay attention to how my cage goes back.

Been doing this since 2007.

Get about 5-7 years on stars/cages.

Key is good grease and keeping them topped off. 

Also to make sure angle is not extreme.

 
I think @lincster is correct those look to be 934s. I would check your axle angle and make sure you have good grease in there... I strap my car @ 22*,  I could get more out of my CVs but I probably wouldn't notice the extra inch or two of travel anyway.

 
Yup.  As others have said, strap them up higher and see if it goes away.  My straps stretch like crazy from the abuse I put on them.

 
Not a super-tech fella but I did have a weird deal happen years back that’s in this ball park. I replaced my CVs and had a binding / clicking problem. I finally decided to change back to my old CVs that I had brought with me as spares when I noticed the old stars had a slight clearance milled into them to allow for more movement before the axel clip hit the star.

 
BaBaBouy said:
Not a super-tech fella but I did have a weird deal happen years back that’s in this ball park. I replaced my CVs and had a binding / clicking problem. I finally decided to change back to my old CVs that I had brought with me as spares when I noticed the old stars had a slight clearance milled into them to allow for more movement before the axel clip hit the star.
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in this exact example, clocking the cv's could have netted an effective 1/4 to 1/2" more axle movement before binding would occur

so if i was to do a c.v. service on a car, at full droop i would check axle plunge.  if its nil or close to nil, i would first offer suggestions, perhaps longer axles, counter bore the star--if those options or price was denied, then clocking the CV joint would be the last option to squeeze out a bit more of relief.  As Rockwood would say,  have them fix it, but to be honest there are people who just dont want to. or their wish list of prioritization does not include axle plunge as one of short list. usually when the car is coming here they are looking for more performance and is top priority.

 
John, do you have a picture of a star with the counter bore?  

 
thanks,

So that would be on the "outboard" side of the CV where the spiral lock goes?

Does that simply "make the axle longer" or does it have to do with allowing more angle?

 
Bobalos said:
thanks,

So that would be on the "outboard" side of the CV where the spiral lock goes?

Does that simply "make the axle longer" or does it have to do with allowing more angle?
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yes, goes on the outside area where the spiral lock would go.

yes, basically makes the axle longer. you will gain more cv angle from it as well. Doesnt mean it will stop clicking though. it then depends on the cv internal parts you are using (ball size, cage, prepped area, etc) for clicking. The counterboring came from the 1600 class where they are limited on arm width and length. they need every little advantage they can get so counterboring the stars was done for that little extra travel. 

 
chevy1925 said:
yes, goes on the outside area where the spiral lock would go.

yes, basically makes the axle longer. you will gain more cv angle from it as well. Doesnt mean it will stop clicking though. it then depends on the cv internal parts you are using (ball size, cage, prepped area, etc) for clicking. The counterboring came from the 1600 class where they are limited on arm width and length. they need every little advantage they can get so counterboring the stars was done for that little extra travel. 
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I did not know this. Thanks for the info!

 
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