Charging shocks with nitrogen.

Fairly simple process to do the reservoirs. Be careful though. If nitrogen has leaked to the oil side of the piston it is possible for the shock to still be charged even though you have depressurized the shock. If you cannot push the end cap of the reservoir inward to remove the circlip than the shock might still have pressure in it. Just something to watch for as even a little pressure in the shock can be very dangerous when you are taking it apart. Fox has great rebuild instructions available on line if that is the brand you have


K, I can't push this in. I released all the pressure from valve. Quite a bit of oil came out. These are piggy back shocks btw. Working on shock shaft to remove. This when I push down it comes right back and there is some pressure on it as well. Idea????

 
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Sounds like the shock is still pressurized. Is the valve core taken completely out? If not, that needs to be removed 

 
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So I now have the shock shaft completely collapsed and tied that way. Schader valve is out. I have tried to push the bottom of the revisor in but just don't seem to be able to do it. Even able to get a rig set up so I can leverage it with a bar and can't move it. I can put a wrench on the Schrader body and turn the whole thing. Have some errands to run, going to leave it with shaft tied down and see if it will bleed some pressure off.

 
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So I let it set collapsed for an hour, released the tie down and seem the same, shaft came right back out quickly. Set up this friction jack and can get the end of reservoir to go in, takes some force. What am I in for????  

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Got It! There was a lot of pressure on it. Used the jack to slowly let off the pressure and finally got cap off. IFP was right up against the cap. Thanks @Sandkist for the heads up on the dangers. Glad I didn't just let that fly!

 
Got It! There was a lot of pressure on it. Used the jack to slowly let off the pressure and finally got cap off. IFP was right up against the cap. Thanks @Sandkist for the heads up on the dangers. Glad I didn't just let that fly!
Glad you got it apart safely as that can be really sketchy. With what you described, the o ring on the IFP is definitely the issue. Does that shock have an external adjuster on it? Do you need to add oil?

 
Are you breaking the shock down all the way? If not you need to be careful to not trap air behind the IFP when you install it. 
With remote reservoirs, I seat the IFP all the way down inside, fill the main body with oil and then pump the IFP in and out to get all the air out (maybe easier with the remotes as I can drop them below the main body) and then set the IFP height and fill the remaining main body and put back together. 

 
With remote reservoirs, I seat the IFP all the way down inside, fill the main body with oil and then pump the IFP in and out to get all the air out (maybe easier with the remotes as I can drop them below the main body) and then set the IFP height and fill the remaining main body and put back together. 
How else could you get the oil behind the IFP and the air out without taking out the main shaft?

 
Are you breaking the shock down all the way? If not you need to be careful to not trap air behind the IFP when you install it. 
Yes I am. I agree as only way to get all the air out.

 
When you are sliding new seals over the shock shaft be careful at the shaft threads and shoulder. You can buy/make a “bullet” that slips over the end of the shock shaft that makes the seal install easier but It can be done without the bullet if you are careful. I like to apply a small amount of grease to the seals before installing on the shaft. Torque for the damping piston nut is 30 ft-lbs.

 
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OK, ask the consensus, the kit I got for the shock only had one of the scuff-wear band in it. I think the one on the shock shaft should be first choice. What do you think? IFP second. Reasoning is shaft moves more.

 
Wear bands are different lengths as each piston is a different diameter. Shock shaft piston first. Usually don’t see much wear on the IFP wear band

 
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