Rockwood
Well-known member
- May 5, 2021
- 5,028
- 6,402
6.0s are assplody enough, just be happy with more torque than we had the previous 60 years of non HDT diesel and roll… :biggrin:
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I just did the icp and ipr on my wife’s truck. What an effin pain in the azz. She has an early motor with icp and ipr on the back below the turboSo this motor was repaired, not "Bulletproofed". There's nothing wrong with what they did but it's different than what the term refers to. My 05 has decked heads, ARP studs, steel head gaskets, Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, Bulletproof oil cooler with remote filter, Bulletproof billet water pump, Banks aluminum intercooler and a couple more goodies. The coolant filter is nice but it doesn't keep the OE egr coolers from failing. in your case that doesn't matter because it's deleted, but that potentially poses another issue because you probably have a check engine code/light unless that was disabled in which case you won't know if something else fails. Preventative maint is key. Also it's good measure to change the ICP and IPR sensors as well as the thermostat every 100k miles. Ask me how I know :lol:
the IPR is on the back/bottom of the turbo in the 05-07, but the ICP is on the right front and takes 5 minutes. I can do the IPR in about 30 now after doing it and buying the correct(Snap-On) tool. Fk the Amazon and knockoff crapI just did the icp and ipr on my wife’s truck. What an effin pain in the azz. She has an early motor with icp and ipr on the back below the turbo
The factory heat shields in my year are not removable, you have to remove the intake, dgas, ficm, rear intake studs and the injector harness, as well as the rear fire wall heat shield (can only reach from back of motor underneath thank god for lift kits). Even with ipr tool and 100 position compact head swivel ratchet there is literally 1/8” of space between wrench and head casting. Cant put ipr tool on while attached to wrench. Have to use a mirror to seethe IPR is on the back/bottom of the turbo in the 05-07, but the ICP is on the right front and takes 5 minutes. I can do the IPR in about 30 now after doing it and buying the correct(Snap-On) tool. Fk the Amazon and knockoff crap
Damn! I had to take the degas bottle, ficm, heat shield and a couple other things but was able to access it from the topThe factory heat shields in my year are not removable, you have to remove the intake, dgas, ficm, rear intake studs and the injector harness, as well as the rear fire wall heat shield (can only reach from back of motor underneath thank god for lift kits). Even with ipr tool and 100 position compact head swivel ratchet there is literally 1/8” of space between wrench and head casting. Cant put ipr tool on while attached to wrench. Have to use a mirror to see
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The only way to make it easier would be to remove the up pipes, which in itself is a pain in the azzDamn! I had to take the degas bottle, ficm, heat shield and a couple other things but was able to access it from the top
what ever attachment you added will not open...Got my Edge monitor and EGT probe all dialed in - I like it and will never be able to drive without it now. Great....
Just got back from a 2,100 mile trip up to Denver and back. Hauled a small flat bed with some steel on it for a job. It wasnt too heavy, and I came back empty. The last 600 miles or so, a whistle started. Not the cool turbo whistle, but more of a ringing sound. I can only hear it at a certain (low) RPM range, and then it goes away, and the truck seems to run fine. It is terrible to listen to, and a bit concerning. Any thoughts?
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said it before, stock and drive it... BTW, these need to be rebuilt about every 100k or so. If you go big, you'll lift the heads and end up with another can of wormsLooking like its a turbo issue. KC Turbos is kind of local to me, but I dont know if I go with a stage I from them or a stock replacement. Truck is not tuned, has stock injectors and exhaust. WWJD?
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Yes, even with studs. Watched a 6.0 truck with a fresh set of head gaskets and studs absolutely POUR coolant on the ground from the HG during a dyno pull.said it before, stock and drive it... BTW, these need to be rebuilt about every 100k or so. If you go big, you'll lift the heads and end up with another can of worms
are you talking about the motor??? what does that mean? "Pistons, rings, & bearings" or just "gaskets & head studs"?BTW, these need to be rebuilt about every 100k or so.
the turbo needs to reconditioned every 100k to work properly... the electronic gate gets tired and sticky and you lose boost pressure. I'm at 125k on my current one and it needs it :lol:are you talking about the motor??? what does that mean? "Pistons, rings, & bearings" or just "gaskets & head studs"?