Sausage450r
Well-known member
- May 5, 2021
- 1,824
- 2,102
Riffraffdiesel.com  not riffraff.com
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:bag:Â Bummer news dude.
 Now that I go back to the office I've been fighting off buying a new car just to get better gas mileage.
 So now Jonathan takes the truck around town. And I'm back in the old Honda SUV.
New car truck prices suck
There's a direct oil injection line into the turbo, thats where it was leaking. Ive seen 6.0's run away and not being aware of the cause I was trying to do the right thing. Now, it seems, all I've done was open a can of worms.Just FYI, HEUI engines like your's can't run away due to a lube leak at the turbo. There's not enough oil in the engine to fill your intercooler and pipes to cause a run away situation not to mention your injectors use the engine oil for hydraulic power so a severe enough loss of engine oil would cut hydraulic flow to your injectors long before you could push enough oil to the intake side of your cylinders thus shutting the engine off.
I still think you'd lose your oil supply to the hpop before you could start combusting the engine oil unless you had an overfilled crankcase due to fuel dilution which is quite common on those so I guess anything's possible. Or, you could have an intercooler already partially filled with oil from a previous issue that didn't previously get cleaned out.There's a direct oil injection line into the turbo, thats where it was leaking. Ive seen 6.0's run away and not being aware of the cause I was trying to do the right thing. Now, it seems, all I've done was open a can of worms.
have you done a y-pipe replacement?Riffraffdiesel.com  not riffraff.com
I have a newer all aluminum intercooler, I did split the strock one a while ago hahaCheck intercooler for cracks. Â Maybe fancy new turbo was its kiss of death
Last two things i’d look at are ipr (screen could be clogged) or sensor portion could be bad. If not that; may have a weak hpop or ficm. Check both batteries for voltage and load sensitivity. Ficm needs to see constant 12vwell crap, have unplugged and checked every sensor I can think of including the EGR valve and it just get worse or better but doesn't stop surging unless you leave the EBP unplugged. I replaced it, I may have to just bite the bullet and drop it off :doh:  all this to save a couple hundred bucks on the job. EFF THIS
FICM pretty new and reading 48-48.5v, IPR I can definitely check, I installed a new one about 25K miles ago, and I'm hoping it's not the HPOP but it does have 350K on it so who knows. We're hooking it up to the laptop with the Navistar diagnostics program tomorrow after work. The guy seems to think one of the pigtails has gone south and is losing connection so we'll see.ÂLast two things i’d look at are ipr (screen could be clogged) or sensor portion could be bad. If not that; may have a weak hpop or ficm. Check both batteries for voltage and load sensitivity. Ficm needs to see constant 12v
Pigtail would be cheap and easy. I did my hpop right before i sold my excursion @170k miles $1100 for the adrenaline hpopFICM pretty new and reading 48-48.5v, IPR I can definitely check, I installed a new one about 25K miles ago, and I'm hoping it's not the HPOP but it does have 350K on it so who knows. We're hooking it up to the laptop with the Navistar diagnostics program tomorrow after work. The guy seems to think one of the pigtails has gone south and is losing connection so we'll see.Â
y-pipe to turbo flange, and it was NEW. Apparently I may have effed it up when I installed it the 1st time I tightened it up and they're one time use :dunno:Which V-band clamp?
Get that truck sorted out?y-pipe to turbo flange, and it was NEW. Apparently I may have effed it up when I installed it the 1st time I tightened it up and they're one time use :dunno:
Word. Things happen.y-pipe to turbo flange, and it was NEW. Apparently I may have effed it up when I installed it the 1st time I tightened it up and they're one time use :dunno: